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Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger


One of the things the Victorian era saw, Fashionable Reader, was an exploration of that liminal space through casual around the house wear.

Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger
Wrapper 1855  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Here we have the wrapper that was only meant to be seen by family.

Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger
Dressing Gown  early 1870s The Metropolitan Museum of Art


Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger
Dressing Gown  1875  The Kyoto Costume Institute

 Dressing gowns, banyans and wrappers are often quilted all or in part.

Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger
Wrapper early 1860s  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

One of the signs of a wrapper is that the waist is designed to be loose or tied tight. Often they split up the front, like a carriage dress or a robe so they can be pulled over a nightgown or underpinnings, like a dressing down but slightly more tailored. Still NOT designed to be worn over a corset.


Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger
Peignoir 1860-1865  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger
Peignoir  1880s  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

 Peignoir seems to be a catch all term.

Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger
Morning Dress  1860  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Morning dresses were initially gowns for the breakfast table that did not require a corset.They're characterize by a looser top lots of details in the neck and sleeves.

Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger
Morning Dress  1872-1873  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

One of the things we see evolving (and limits being tested) after the 1950s through the 1900s is the idea of what was not meant to be seen (undergarments and nightgowns) to what was initially only meant to be seen by family or lovers (wrappers & peignoirs) to receiving casual around house guests at breakfast (morning dresses) to I'm comfortable at home and I want to show my wealth with yet another space & occasion specific outfit (the tea gown).

Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger
Tea Gown  late 1870s  The Los Angeles County Museum of Art

Tea gowns were an evolution of the morning gown.

Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger
Tea Gown  1875  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger
Tea Gown  1875-1880  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger
1Harpers Bazar New York Sat June 13 1891 Dressing Gowns Nightshirts

This evolution is coupled with the rise of the middle class, the sexual revolution (including contraception and woman's suffrage) and various other factors.

Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger
Bed Jacket  1885  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger
Dressing Jacket  1885-1890  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

 We see a culmination in this towards the turn of the century in the popularity of (and wide-scale use of the word) negligées and lingerie sets, which specifically implies an article of clothing that is sexual in its nature for it is meant to be seen by a lover.

Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger
Negligée  1880  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

This kind of clothing, prior to the first sexual revolution, would not have been acceptable for a fashion house to make, let alone a fashionable lady to purchase.

Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger
Negligée Callot Soeurs, 1898-1900s The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger

Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger

Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail CarrigerRelaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger
Lingerie Set  1880s  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

There was also head wear that was designed to be worn exclusively around the house, but that's a whole other story...

Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger
House Cap 1900  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

For Primrose!

Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger
Boudoir Cap 1895 The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger
nightgown 1894  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail Carriger
Dressing Gown  1897-1899  The Metropolitan Museum of Art


Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can shop my recommendations via the following lists:
Steampunk, Retro Jewelry, Makeup, Retro Clothes, Lifestyle


Product links on this blog are usually to Amazon using my associate code. At no additional cost to you this means I get a slight kick back if you make a purchase. Thank you! This allows me to continue to produce this blog without sponsors.

Reticence Extras: CP3 Straw Hats of the 1890s for Primrose in the Custard Protocol Series by Gail Carriger


Went to the Degas exhibit a little while ago, Fashionable Reader. Here's a retrospective on some of the straw hats of the 1890s that I saw there. These may, or may not, show up on Primrose in the forthcoming Custard Protocol book.

Reticence Extras: CP3 Straw Hats of the 1890s for Primrose in the Custard Protocol Series by Gail Carriger
Image taken by Gail Carriger, do not share without attribution
Reticence Extras: CP3 Straw Hats of the 1890s for Primrose in the Custard Protocol Series by Gail Carriger

Made me think of Ivy...

Reticence Extras: CP3 Straw Hats of the 1890s for Primrose in the Custard Protocol Series by Gail Carriger

Reticence Extras: CP3 Straw Hats of the 1890s for Primrose in the Custard Protocol Series by Gail Carriger
Image taken by Gail Carriger, do not share without attribution
Reticence Extras: CP3 Straw Hats of the 1890s for Primrose in the Custard Protocol Series by Gail Carriger

Reticence Extras: CP3 Straw Hats of the 1890s for Primrose in the Custard Protocol Series by Gail Carriger
Image taken by Gail Carriger, do not share without attribution
 
Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can shop my recommendations via the following lists:
Steampunk, Retro Jewelry, Makeup, Retro Clothes, Lifestyle


Product links on this blog are usually to Amazon using my associate code. At no additional cost to you this means I get a slight kick back if you make a purchase. Thank you! This allows me to continue to produce this blog without sponsors.

The Courage to Wear a Cape from Gail Carriger


I had an interesting encounter the other weekend, Fashionable Reader.

I was at a barbecue. You know, that thing, in the back yard, where you burn the meat?

This was no a high fashion event ~ suburban in location, and 30-something anti-hipsters in attendance. These were not my friends, I should add.

Now, where was I? Oh yes . . . the encounter.

Also in attendance was a Very Fresh Girlfriend of one of the fringe members of said group. Clearly nervous, she enters stage right, a lovely fashionable young thing.

Now, to set the scene, I am wearing a cute white dress, tights, and riding boots ~ very de mode. However, it is cold and damp, so over it all I have my favorite black double-breasted rain cape (I happen to own three capes total).

The Courage to Wear a Cape from Gail Carriger The Courage to Wear a Cape from Gail Carriger The Courage to Wear a Cape from Gail Carriger
black double breasted & belted from Max Studio, $130, thrifted vintage cream wool, no label, $25, faux fur from H&M $15

Now this new girl, either in an awkward attempt to make conversation, or just because she is, well, a bitch, says,

"Oh, is that a cape? Not everyone can wear a cape. I should never even attempt it."

It was the tone that threw me. It was said in that way of catty southern ladies,

"Oh, she has put on a few pounds, bless her little heart."

I simply drifted away and on to a far more interesting conversation on the relative merits of DC versus Marvel comic books. (Marvel baby, all the way.)

To the meat of the matter. 


I disagree with the principle of the statement made by Very Fresh Girlfriend as well as the execution. I think anyone can wear a cape. They are delightful fun, one feels rather comic-book-ish (Marvel, I hope, not DC). The belted cape is a good option to prevent loss of shape.

The Courage to Wear a Cape from Gail Carriger




On the practical side the cape allows you to layer in fun and flattering ways. You can wear full or puffy sleeved jackets and then throw the cape on for extra warmth or rain protection. On the impractical side it is difficult to carry a shoulder bag with a cape. (You'll notice most of the street shots bellow have clutches or handbags.)

The Courage to Wear a Cape from Gail Carriger

If you are slightly shorter of stature, a short cape is probably a better option. Regardless, if cut in the right way in can disguise rather than enhance the chest.


And they come for a long and distinguished tradition:
The Courage to Wear a Cape from Gail Carriger The Courage to Wear a Cape from Gail Carriger The Courage to Wear a Cape from Gail Carriger  
1895 Emile Pingat cape via The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1905 Jean-Phillipe Worth evening wrap via The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1933-1934 Elsa Sciaparelli cape via The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art

"A mackintosh cape, one of the thinnest and lightest possible to procure. should always be carried to protect the shoulders in case of a sudden shower, and a fur cape for chilly evenings or east wind will be found a most comfortable addition."

~ Lillias Campbell Davidson, 1889

The Courage to Wear a Cape from Gail Carriger  
2011 RT Convention ~ Richelle Mead, Jeanne Stein, Nicole Peeler, and Gail Carriger (in a cape)

For the Characters! 


For Primrose in the Custard Protocol Series



For Felicity in the Parasol Protectorate Series 

The Courage to Wear a Cape from Gail Carriger

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can shop my recommendations via the following lists:
Steampunk, Retro Jewelry, Makeup, Retro Clothes, Lifestyle


Product links on this blog are usually to Amazon using my associate code. At no additional cost to you this means I get a slight kick back if you make a purchase. Thank you! This allows me to continue to produce this blog without sponsors.

In Fashion Memoriam: 1980s Red & White Suit by Gail Carriger


In here is another little ode to a long lost closet items Fashionable Reader.

I will admit, when I bought this suit I imagined I would wear it more because it has versatility in it's favor.

In Fashion Memoriam: 1980s Red & White Suit by Gail Carriger

In Fashion Memoriam: 1980s Red & White Suit by Gail Carriger

It just really looks like my kind of thing. The color is very much the perfect ride for me, and I like the clean white pattern. I think of it as birds, or maybe bird feet, but I think its leaves of some kind.

In Fashion Memoriam: 1980s Red & White Suit by Gail Carriger

It is wonderful and very light weight. I did take it to Europe with me, and I didn't wear it. But as you can see the top never really did fit properly. After my breast reduction, I thought it would fit better. But it doesn't.

In Fashion Memoriam: 1980s Red & White Suit by Gail Carriger


Trying it on again only made me realize how much I love the color and hate the fit. I thought perhaps that I might keep the skirt part, but even it doesn't really fit my hips well anymore since it is raw silk it has almost no stretch to it so both of them are going the way of the dodo.

In Fashion Memoriam: 1980s Red & White Suit by Gail Carriger


What? 
Two piece cherry red suit with white birds, peplum top with button front, pleated fitted skirt, silk.
Why?
Too tight at waist, shirt is really for someone with a short waist, and smaller boobs. Doesn't pack well.


Something similar for Prudence in the Custard Protocol Books...


In Fashion Memoriam: 1980s Red & White Suit by Gail Carriger
1896 Ensemble  The FIDM Museum
Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can shop my recommendations via the following lists:
Steampunk, Retro Jewelry, Makeup, Retro Clothes, Lifestyle


Product links on this blog are usually to Amazon using my associate code. At no additional cost to you this means I get a slight kick back if you make a purchase. Thank you! This allows me to continue to produce this blog without sponsors.

Beautiful Dresses for Rue & Prim in the Custard Protocol Books, from Harper's Bazaar 1891 from Gail Carriger


I have this lovely Harper's Bazaar from 1891, given to me by a lovely reader. I finally got around to scanning some of the images. Here are a few for you, the kind of things Rue & Prim might wear in the Custard Protocol series.

Beautiful Dresses for Rue & Prim in the Custard Protocol Books, from Harper's Bazaar 1891 from Gail Carriger

Beautiful Dresses for Rue & Prim in the Custard Protocol Books, from Harper's Bazaar 1891 from Gail Carriger

Beautiful Dresses for Rue & Prim in the Custard Protocol Books, from Harper's Bazaar 1891 from Gail Carriger


Beautiful Dresses for Rue & Prim in the Custard Protocol Books, from Harper's Bazaar 1891 from Gail Carriger

Beautiful Dresses for Rue & Prim in the Custard Protocol Books, from Harper's Bazaar 1891 from Gail Carriger


Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can shop my recommendations via the following lists:
Steampunk, Retro Jewelry, Makeup, Retro Clothes, Lifestyle


Product links on this blog are usually to Amazon using my associate code. At no additional cost to you this means I get a slight kick back if you make a purchase. Thank you! This allows me to continue to produce this blog without sponsors.

Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)



The third book in my Custard Protocol series is out now!  This book is set in the mid 1890s and I have concocted a pictorial guide to a possible outfit that a young lady of Prim's rank might wear during this time period.

The images run with what she would need to put on, in order. Ready? Here we go...

On the bottom half:


Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
1. 1890  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
2. 1890s Stockings The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
3. 1899 Garters  1899  The Chicago History Museum

Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
4. 1895-1905 Oxfords   The Metropolitan Museum of Art

 Note that shoes have to go on early? Well before the corset and also the rest of the dress for bending and hemming reasons.


Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
Combination  1890s  The Metropolitan Museum of Ar

Combinations are a hard one for me, as an author. Because they were totally UBIQUITOUS undergarments at the time of the Custard Protocol books. They were the most common form of underwear. However, the name and the concept is entirely lost to the modern mind set. Most of my readers would have no basis for comparison should I drop the word "combination" into, for example, a shape change or a nookie scene. I must, therefore, use the word in correct context so as to make it clear that is what the character is wearing. Or have it described to another foriegn character. And yet, it's not something that would be described. So I have to have said foreigner describe it and everyone else get embarrassed. Oh! I like that. Forget I said anything, OK?

On the upper half:


Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
Bust Improvers  1890s  Whitaker Auction

Prim wouldn't need these, but I include them because I think its so fun that they exist at all!

Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
5. Camisol  1895-1905  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
6. 1893  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
7. Sleeve Supports  1890s  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

And over the top:

Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
8. 1895  The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
9. 1894 Evening Dress  Charles Fredrick Worth, 1894  The Kyoto Costume Institute

Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
10. 1890s  The Goldstein Museum of Design

Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
11. 1895-1905  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
12. Muff and Hat  1890s  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Alternatively, here's a look at more sporty options...


Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
Stockings  1890s  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
Combinations undergarment, England, 1875 - 1900

Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
Corset 1890s Summer Corset   The Victoria & Albert Museu

Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
Corset Cover  1895-1900  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

And sportswear on the outside:


Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
Gym Suit  1895-1899  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
Cycling Ensemble  1895  The Kyoto Costume Institute

Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
Shirtwaist 1894 The Museum at FIT _ OMG that dress!

Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
1890s Under The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
Travel Suit  Jacques Doucet, 1895  The Victoria & Albert Museum

You don't have to take the pictures as proof. Here's some research to back it up...

Gwen Raverat at the end of the century describes the modest dress of a respectable female.

"Women were incredibly modest . . .  even with each other. You could see a friend in her petticoat, but nothing below that was considered decent. At school, the sidht of a person in her white frilly drawers caused shrieks of outraged virtue; and I should have thought it impossible to be seen downstairs in my dressing-gown."

~ Judith Flanders The Victorian House (pg. 269)

Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
americangothgirl-tumblr Catalog Photographs, Front and Back Views of Woman In Corset, c. 1880s. Albumen Prints

"This is what a young lady wore, with whom I shared a room one night...

  1. Thick, long-legged woolen combinations.
  2. Over them, white cotton combinations, with plenty of buttons and frills.
  3. Very serious, bony, grey stays, with suspenders.
  4. Black woolen stockings.
  5. White cotton drawers, with buttons and frills.
  6. White cotton 'petticoat-bodice', with embroidery, buttons and frills.
  7. Rather short, white flannel, petticoat.
  8. Long alpaca petticoat, with a flounce round the bottom.
  9. Pink flannel blouse.
  10. High, starched, white collar, fastened on with studs.
  11. Navy blue tie.
  12. Blue skirt, touching the ground, and fastened tightly to the blouse with a safety-pin behind.
  13. Leather belt, very tight.
  14. High button boots."
  ~ Judith Flanders The Victorian House (pg. 269)

Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
Undergarments ca. 1900-03  From the FIDM Museum


Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)
 1898 Walking Suit, House of Worth, French, Made of silk and lace


Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can shop my recommendations via the following lists:
Steampunk, Retro Jewelry, Makeup, Retro Clothes, Lifestyle


Product links on this blog are usually to Amazon using my associate code. At no additional cost to you this means I get a slight kick back if you make a purchase. Thank you! This allows me to continue to produce this blog without sponsors.

Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail Carriger


I love a boater hat (also called spinners).

Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail Carriger


One of the joys of writing in the 1890s (my Custard Protocol and Claw & Courtship series) is the fact that I can finally start to include this fashion item!

Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail Carriger

Obviously this started as a gentleman's hat.

Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail Carriger
Source
 With the advent of women on bicycles, among other things, this hat grew in popularity for the ladies.

Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail Carriger
Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail Carriger
1890s women's boater, taken by Gail Carriger at the Degas Exhibit, 2017, do not remove attribution

Because it started out as an item ubiquitous to younger men river boating (pole boats) it became particularly associated with sporting activities from beach side strolls to hiking and biking.

Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail Carriger
Taken by Gail Carriger at the Degas Exhibit, 2017, do not remove attribution

This in turn gave it the aura of vacation and countryside, which means also casual and daytime.

Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail Carriger
Taken by Gail Carriger at the Degas Exhibit, 2017, do not remove attribution
Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail Carriger


Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail Carriger
Linen walking suit, 1895, Jacques Doucet, French. 
"This suit might well have been worn for a tour abroad. Linen was favored for hot-weather travel because it was washable & comparatively lightweight. At this time, women's tailored suits were very popular, borrowing such details from men's dress as wide lapels & exterior pockets. This practicality suited the more emancipated lifestyles women were beginning to lead." From OMG That Dress
Eventually, rather like pantelettes, the boater became the provenance of school children.

Check out the importance of Faith's boater for her, Biffy and society, in How to Marry a Werewolf.

Self matching the cover of How to Marry

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can shop my recommendations via the following lists:
Steampunk, Retro Jewelry, Makeup, Retro Clothes, Lifestyle


Product links on this blog are usually to Amazon using my associate code. At no additional cost to you this means I get a slight kick back if you make a purchase. Thank you! This allows me to continue to produce this blog without sponsors.

Muffs: Gail Carriger's Collection & Muffs Throughout History


A brief moment of muffs today, Fashionable Reader.

I own a few muffs but I very rarely use them. Even though my hands are always cold and I like that they can just be shoved up the arm and worn without occupying a hand (as clutches are wont to do). Not quite sure why not, but there it is.

I even sewed one, once, with a secret pocket. It's one of the hardest things I've ever sewed.

Muffs: Gail Carriger's Collection & Muffs Throughout History

Here's a bought one, big and fluffy and black and adorable, and yet rarely used...

Muffs: Gail Carriger's Collection & Muffs Throughout History

Here's a photo shoot where it made an apprentice, this was a drive con so I could afford to pack something so fluffy.

Muffs: Gail Carriger's Collection & Muffs Throughout History
photographed and copyright by j daniel sawyer

I also own a vintage fur one that is a wrist muff, very small but so cute.

Muffs: Gail Carriger's Collection & Muffs Throughout History

Muffs of History!


Muffs: Gail Carriger's Collection & Muffs Throughout History
damesalamode- Gallery of Fashion, evening dresses, February 1795

Muffs: Gail Carriger's Collection & Muffs Throughout History
Le Follet Friday, January 1, 1864 v. 43, plate 97
Muffs: Gail Carriger's Collection & Muffs Throughout History
via colourthysoul- Frederick Childe Hassam - A New Year’s Nocture, New York (1892)
Muffs: Gail Carriger's Collection & Muffs Throughout History
1900 muff via livingnowisliving- Found on geheugenvannederland.nl.jpg
Muffs: Gail Carriger's Collection & Muffs Throughout History
1905  muff The Victoria & Albert Museum
Muffs: Gail Carriger's Collection & Muffs Throughout History
Fashion by Jacques Fath, 1952 theniftyfifties

Muffs: Gail Carriger's Collection & Muffs Throughout History
vintagechampagnefever-tumblr Gloria Vanderbilt and an unnamed model
showcase furs for LIFE magazine (1952)

Muffs: Gail Carriger's Collection & Muffs Throughout History
Model wearing an ensemble with a fur muff for Vogue, 1956 theniftyfifties tumblr

Muffs: Gail Carriger's Collection & Muffs Throughout History
bcbg-rtw-fw 2014-runway blue

Muffs: Gail Carriger's Collection & Muffs Throughout History
photographed and copyright by j daniel sawyer

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can shop my recommendations via the following lists:
Steampunk, Retro Jewelry, Makeup, Retro Clothes, Lifestyle


Product links on this blog are usually to Amazon using my associate code. At no additional cost to you this means I get a slight kick back if you make a purchase. Thank you! This allows me to continue to produce this blog without sponsors.
Relaxing Victorians: Casual Wear From Unseen to Seen to Seen by Only a Few ~ Wrappers & Peignoirs & Dressing Gowns to Morning Dresses & Tea Gowns to Lingerie from Gail CarrigerReticence Extras: CP3 Straw Hats of the 1890s for Primrose in the Custard Protocol Series by Gail CarrigerThe REAL Reason the Custard Protocol is Set in the 1890s from Gail CarrigerThe Courage to Wear a Cape from Gail Carriger In Fashion Memoriam: 1980s Red & White Suit by Gail CarrigerBeautiful Dresses for Rue & Prim in the Custard Protocol Books, from Harper's Bazaar 1891 from Gail CarrigerCompetence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)Dressing Primrose for the Boudoir for Competence (Research Behind Gail Carriger's Custard Protocol Series)Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail CarrigerMuffs: Gail Carriger's Collection & Muffs Throughout History

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