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Vintage Style In A Modern World

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Gail Carriger Suggests an Excellent Article & Podcast on Feathered Hats & MURDER


Hello fashionable readers, here's something fun for you!

Fun article:
Murderous Millinery: A brief look at the fashion for feathered hats in the early 20th century

Gail Carriger Suggests an Excellent Article & Podcast on Feathered Hats & MURDER

And a companion podcast on the subject:  Murderous Millinery

I do love hats, despite their murderous intentions.

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can shop my recommendations via the following lists:
Steampunk, Retro Jewelry, Makeup, Retro Clothes, Lifestyle


Product links on this blog are usually to Amazon using my associate code. At no additional cost to you this means I get a slight kick back if you make a purchase. Thank you! This allows me to continue to produce this blog without sponsors.

Degas Was All About the Hats, So Is Gail Carriger


Hats make me happy, Fashionable Reader. I hope this comes as no surprise.

Degas Was All About the Hats, So Is Gail Carriger
Image taken by Gail Carriger, do not share without attribution

Degas Was All About the Hats, So Is Gail Carriger

Apparently Degas was a big fan, too. This exhibit I went to included others who were fans of hats, as well as some hat making displays, and of course the hats themselves.

Degas Was All About the Hats, So Is Gail Carriger

Degas Was All About the Hats, So Is Gail Carriger

Degas Was All About the Hats, So Is Gail Carriger

Degas Was All About the Hats, So Is Gail Carriger

Degas Was All About the Hats, So Is Gail Carriger

Degas Was All About the Hats, So Is Gail Carriger

Degas Was All About the Hats, So Is Gail Carriger

This last is a double whammy of Gail's loves: hats & parasols!

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can shop my recommendations via the following lists:
Steampunk, Retro Jewelry, Makeup, Retro Clothes, Lifestyle


Product links on this blog are usually to Amazon using my associate code. At no additional cost to you this means I get a slight kick back if you make a purchase. Thank you! This allows me to continue to produce this blog without sponsors.

DIY ~ More Hat Decorations with Gail Carriger

A while ago I did a post about making magnetic hat flowers, so I could have different flowers on my two cream hats depending on the dress.

DIY ~ More Hat Decorations with Gail Carriger DIY ~ More Hat Decorations with Gail Carriger

A Reminder

  • The hats have heavy duty magnets under their bands.
  • For each fancy I used a hot glue gun to affix strong rare earth disc magnets (facing the correct direction for the hats!) to the backs.
  • I also glue a bit of ribbon over the magnet as otherwise the magnet is stronger than the glue and just comes off the fancy.
Some day someone smart will market magnet buttons so they can be sewn on . . .

Since the first session of fancy-making, I have been plotting to do this to a cream headband as well, but have been experiencing technical difficulties.

In the interim, I created more fancies!

New Fancies


DIY ~ More Hat Decorations with Gail Carriger

DIY ~ More Hat Decorations with Gail Carriger

DIY ~ More Hat Decorations with Gail Carriger

DIY ~ More Hat Decorations with Gail Carriger
Black grosgrain with teapot button decroation
DIY ~ More Hat Decorations with Gail Carriger
Black on the hat!
For this one I adapted an old royal blue faire favor. Since I don't do faire anymore, it seemed like a good use for an old friend. Added a spray of feathers to the back with a glue gun, and gued down the magnet and covered with ribbon and wha la!

DIY ~ More Hat Decorations with Gail Carriger

DIY ~ More Hat Decorations with Gail Carriger

DIY ~ More Hat Decorations with Gail Carriger
Completed royal blue favor
Re-purposing a cheap headband from Ross.

DIY ~ More Hat Decorations with Gail Carriger
Before

DIY ~ More Hat Decorations with Gail Carriger
Added magnet

DIY ~ More Hat Decorations with Gail Carriger
On the hat
And lastly I did a cheeky red bow with a button.

DIY ~ More Hat Decorations with Gail Carriger

DIY ~ More Hat Decorations with Gail Carriger

The final collection:


DIY ~ More Hat Decorations with Gail Carriger

One of the best thing about these? They pack small!

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

In Which Gail Carriger Dies a Hat Black

So a while back I was rambling through Calistoga, as you do, and I found a vintage store, as I do all the time, and things being as they are, bought this hat for $15.

In Which Gail Carriger Dies a Hat Black
Burgundy 1940s labled Lancaster Wool

Searching the net, I found a few others of this shape.

In Which Gail Carriger Dies a Hat Black
Grey Tear Drop, One of 3 for $50, Doeskin Felt

In Which Gail Carriger Dies a Hat Black
 Hat  early 1940s  The Los Angeles County Museum of Art

In Which Gail Carriger Dies a Hat Black

It's difficult to see, when it's not on the head but it's so cute! It's worn tilted to one side and down over the right eye and results in a very Noir look.

In Which Gail Carriger Dies a Hat Black

I proudly brought mine home intending to clean and and fix (it had clearly once had a feather and such) only to find I have absolutely NOTHING to wear it with. With the exception of two steampunk dresses (already matched to steampunk hats) I actually own very little burgundy clothing. All my reds are true reds. Well, I didn't want to overhaul my wardrobe just for the one new accessory, so I decided I had better learn how to dye a hat!

DIY ~ Hat Dieing 


Internet informs me that one can use paints designed to absorb (for such things as hand-painting silk) that are heat activated. I opted for Jacquard Textile Colors. I also decided on black as I figured it would cover the best and go with the most outfits.

In Which Gail Carriger Dies a Hat Black

Tools
  • Special Paint
  • Protective Clothing
  • Protective Surface
  • Paint Brush
  • Water
  • Blow Dryer
  • Lint brush
  • Small scissors
First, I cleaned the hat using the lint brush and clipped any stray threads. The paint seemed a little gloppy to me and it said on the bottle that it could be used for airbrushing thinned 20% with water. So I thinned it out by about that much.

In Which Gail Carriger Dies a Hat Black

I did a test paint on the back and dried with hair dryer. It looked good and seemed to adhere well so I went to work painting starting with the bottom. I tried to rub the paint in with the brush, so it wouldn't clump or cause too much of a sheen. The paint absorbed and dried FAST.


In Which Gail Carriger Dies a Hat Black

I dried the underside for a day in front of our big old room heater (the wall wart). Flipped it and then painted the crown and the brim.

In Which Gail Carriger Dies a Hat Black

The I dried it again for several days, luckily it was cold out so we had the heater on a lot.

In Which Gail Carriger Dies a Hat Black

During the interim, I bought better wider stiffer brush (just inexpensive ones from a craft store). Throughout the process I also kept having to thin the paint.

In Which Gail Carriger Dies a Hat Black

Lastly, I did one final coat over the outside with the paint thinned to about 50/50.

In Which Gail Carriger Dies a Hat Black

The felt became stiffer and less soft than the original hat, but the look is what I wanted. I added a few small feathers and a magnet to the inside of the feather holding tube so that I could put on a flower to match whatever dress I chose to wear it with. (If you want to know how I made those, here's the DIY.)

In Which Gail Carriger Dies a Hat Black
 Photo showing finished hat with a simple matched black bow magnet from the second round of hat fancies (post to come).

Conclusion:
It worked well enough, but the hat still has a slight reddish sheen in bright daylight. I didn't paint the interior of the crown, since that won't be visible and I wanted it to stay nice and soft, and not come off black on my hair!

* If I had it to do again? I'd thin the paint 50/50 from the get go and use the bigger stiffer brush. This would mean three thinner coats, but would be faster and worth the effort as I think it would keep the texture of the felt better.

Now I just need a reason to wear it.

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

Gail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San Francisco

So Etiquette & Espionage (my new YA book and the first in a four book series) launched into the world on Tuesday night. The organizers of the event said they woudl love it if I would wear something steampunk. I was left with a bit of a quandary. With Nova Albion around the corner, a local steampunk event thus allowing me to pack and wear ALL my favorite steampunk outfits and ALL their companion parasols (YES!!), I didn't want to wear one of those to this event. Too much repeat in too story a time. Plus I needed something I could drive in that was a little more casual. I'm rather chuffed with myself for concocting this outfit:

Gail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San FranciscoGail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San Francisco
Outfit front & back

Gail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San FranciscoGail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San Francisco
 Outfit side shots

I started with my Fashioned By Flobért gold robe carriage dress (which might, more properly, be called a coach dress) with buttons all the way up the front.

Gail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San FranciscoGail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San Francisco
 The dress hanging, and at World Con in Reno in 2011

The dress is stained and slightly faded, in a heavy satin. This makes it only suitable for low-light late evening events, and warm, and in ever great need of ironing. I bought it on sale for $10, it needed repairs and new buttons all up the front. I have a great source for vintage buttons in Petaluma and I sourced 32 abalone shell replacements for $10 plus narrowing every single button hole. It was quite the task. I do like the architectural details in the bodice. I'm now in possession of a nice wide belt, which I'll be wearing with it in future when it's not all steampunked. It did steampunk nicely though, didn't it?



Gail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San Francisco

It actually has a bit of a train, so the front hem is shorter than the back, which shows off the shoes and looks ever so slightly bustle-like with the waist cinch. It's very robe like, not surprising as it turns out Fashioned By Flobért was mainly a boudoir designer.

Gail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San FranciscoGail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San Francisco

Similar styles:
Gail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San FranciscoGail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San Francisco
 1930s Elsa Schiaparelli  Kerry Taylor Auctions; 1970s Halston  1stdibs.com

Gail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San Francisco
 1940s Dress  Charles James for Elizabeth Arden  The Frock

I paired my Flobert with patchwork boots and long dark red vintage gloves inherited from my Grandmother.

Gail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San Francisco
The boots, Kenneth Cole, from Buffalo Exchange, Berkeley some 20 years ago, $20. 
I was so poor at the time my best friend bought them for me.

I also wore this little octopus necklace. I like to have octopus on my person somewhere.

Gail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San Francisco
Adorable octopus necklace, gift from a reader

The hat from my Autumn steampunk outfit, and when I'm not facing a windy San Francisco night I susually perch it far forward on my head.

Gail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San FranciscoGail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San Francisco
Signing with the hat and a perched spinner from VivianWestwood SS runway

Gail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San FranciscoGail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San Francisco
Christian Dior Haute Couture 2010 and a very cool hat on one of the guest!

I was reminded of this recent photo shoot in Restoration Hardware.

Gail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San Francisco

Along with the accessories I wore my custom stripped Dark Garden pointed waist cinch as a Swiss Waist with Ruby Blackbird Corset buttons to make it look more belt like. I was drawing on this kind of thing for inspiration.

Gail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San FranciscoGail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San Francisco
 1910-1915 Motoring Ensemble, The FIDM Museum; 1896-1899  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Gail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San FranciscoGail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San Francisco
 1900 Ball Gown  The Metropolitan Museum of Art; screen cap from the Pallisers

So there you have it! Another event, another outfit.

Gail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San Francisco

Before you ask, the waist cinch is 22" but I don't have it laced fully down.

Gail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San Francisco

Something in this vein for the characters?


For Professor Briathwope in Etiquette & Espionage:

Gail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San Francisco
1850s Men’s Dressing Gown  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

For Ivy:
Gail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San Francisco
1885  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

For Prudence:

Gail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San Francisco
1895 Dress  Museo del Traje

Gail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San Francisco
By Cake Central member CakeDiva11

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.
Gail Carriger Suggests an Excellent Article & Podcast on Feathered Hats & MURDERDegas Was All About the Hats, So Is Gail CarrigerVictorian Clothing Terms Used in the Finishing School Books & What They Mean from Gail CarrigerGail Carriger in Vintage 1950s Flowered Day Dress with Gold & Retro Pink 1930s Evening GownGail Carriger Visits The Alameda Vintage Fashion FairGail Carriger bids Happy Retirement, My PrettiesGail Carriger bids Goodbye My Pretties Part IIDIY ~ More Hat Decorations with Gail Carriger In Which Gail Carriger Dies a Hat BlackGail Carriger Gold Steampunk in San Francisco

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