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Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail Carriger


I love a boater hat (also called spinners).

Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail Carriger


One of the joys of writing in the 1890s (my Custard Protocol and Claw & Courtship series) is the fact that I can finally start to include this fashion item!

Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail Carriger

Obviously this started as a gentleman's hat.

Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail Carriger
Source
 With the advent of women on bicycles, among other things, this hat grew in popularity for the ladies.

Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail Carriger
Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail Carriger
1890s women's boater, taken by Gail Carriger at the Degas Exhibit, 2017, do not remove attribution

Because it started out as an item ubiquitous to younger men river boating (pole boats) it became particularly associated with sporting activities from beach side strolls to hiking and biking.

Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail Carriger
Taken by Gail Carriger at the Degas Exhibit, 2017, do not remove attribution

This in turn gave it the aura of vacation and countryside, which means also casual and daytime.

Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail Carriger
Taken by Gail Carriger at the Degas Exhibit, 2017, do not remove attribution
Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail Carriger


Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail Carriger
Linen walking suit, 1895, Jacques Doucet, French. 
"This suit might well have been worn for a tour abroad. Linen was favored for hot-weather travel because it was washable & comparatively lightweight. At this time, women's tailored suits were very popular, borrowing such details from men's dress as wide lapels & exterior pockets. This practicality suited the more emancipated lifestyles women were beginning to lead." From OMG That Dress
Eventually, rather like pantelettes, the boater became the provenance of school children.

Check out the importance of Faith's boater for her, Biffy and society, in How to Marry a Werewolf.

Self matching the cover of How to Marry

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can shop my recommendations via the following lists:
Steampunk, Retro Jewelry, Makeup, Retro Clothes, Lifestyle


Product links on this blog are usually to Amazon using my associate code. At no additional cost to you this means I get a slight kick back if you make a purchase. Thank you! This allows me to continue to produce this blog without sponsors.

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy


In honor of Romancing the Werewolf, Fashionable Reader, I invited Modern Biffy to the blog today to bring you some VERY strong opinions on menswear.

Take it away... Biffy!

In my humble experience, men can be very difficult to dress. The ones who have an interest in fashion can often be the worst to deal with. For they know that there is a code to be hacked in manipulating others through image, so they are extra paranoid about it.

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy

My approach it to show them images and ask for input.

Which one do you like?

How do you want to dress?

What kind of impression do you want to give?

I've got some tips inherent in my Dressing for Conventions rant as well.

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy

I advise trying to focus attention in on the clothing itself, rather than the man who wears it.

Ask a man who he wants to look like and he'll say "Brad Pitt" or "George Clooney" or "James Bond."

That's hopeless.

Better to ask what he wants to look like. What kind of impression does he want to give?

Start directing his attention to the clothing rather than the man underneath it.

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy

 For example, very few body types can carry of this look:

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy

 But a great many out there can do this one, and look marvelous.

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy

Suits 101

 I think that every man should own at least two suits ~ one grey and one black. These will hit pretty much every necessary event from weddings to funerals, and you can mix and match for casual occasions, like so:

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy

This is a very modern look with the skinny trousers and mix of brown & black elements, but you get the idea. He's taken the black trousers from one suit and put them with the grey blazer of the other. How come he gets away with mixing chocolate brown, tobacco brown, grey, black, and a patterned tie? He kept all his lines clean and stuck with neutral colors.

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy
 A brown vintage version.

To experiment with color, the base components should be more matched, like so:

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy

He's done all black with grey trousers and then two pops of matched red. The color will draw attention instantly, so if you want to rock the yellow socks, make certain your shoes are polished to a mirror shine because people will be looking at them!

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy

But I am getting a little advanced here, shall we go back to the basics?

Those two suits?

Here's a break down of the necessary elements.

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy

1. Choose an English or an Italian cut.

2. In both black and grey.
Because of intended use, I always suggest the grey be of a lighter fabric than the black. Also, while cool, I am against linen, it wrinkles too easily.

A black suit is for:
Weddings that are formal, evening, autumn and winter, and/or inside that don't specify white tie, evening dinners and events, funerals, first time meetings with executives from foreign countries, any afternoon event that might lead into evening. Because this will serve your black tie needs, the trousers should not be cuffed. Tuxes, for the modern man, are usually so infrequently worn that it's OK to rent. So long as when you rent you make certain to get the right size.

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy

A grey suit is for:
Weddings that are informal, morning or afternoon, spring and summer, and/or outside that don't specify black tie, outdoor formal events that do not specify mourning jackets, christenings, lunchtime appointments, morning occasions. Try to go for slightly lighter greys rather than charcoal. Silvers, steels, blue tinged, or even dove tones. Think about eye color and complexion when selecting the tone of grey.

What about brown?
Serves the same as grey but for formal occasions will require all new accessories, so I'd opt for grey if you can.

Blue?
Has a nice vintage feel and I actually like a blue suit a lot. In lighter hues it could serve instead of the grey but is a daring choice. Navy has similar problems to brown.

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy


3. Single breasted jacket. 
Looks best on most body types. Double breasted adds width and bulk.

Yes. It. Does.

I know, honey, you love it. It makes you feel a tough and all mafia-ish. Well, it also makes you look fat. Nash. If you're rail thin and you want to rock the vintage look, than why are you reading this blog? We are talking basics here, not advanced costuming.

I also suggest a notched narrower collar, but do experimented with various different style jackets. Remember the jacket MUST fit you in the shoulder, and around the back and middle, hems and cuffs can be taken up.

Jacket button rule?

From the top down . . .

Always
Sometimes
Never

Only two buttons?

From the top down . . .
Always
Sometimes but mostly never

Remember, however, to unbutton all of them when sitting.

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy
1964  The Victoria & Albert Museum

4. Flat front trousers.
For the effing love gentlemen! FLAT FRONT. Never ever pleated. Do you like the crotch poof? No one likes the crotch poof.

No one.

I don't know why they even manufacture pleated anymore. Always bring the shoes you intend to wear with with you to try on suits, so you can check the length of the trouser. Easier to shorten than to lengthen.

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy

5. Crisp white skirt.
With standard cuffs and collars. Leave the fancy ones for costumes. Again, this should fit the shoulder and neck and I suggest trying a "slim" or "modern" cut even if you are on the larger side. These terms actually mean that the shirts are made to fit closer to the body and can be more flattering as a result, adding less volume with less fabric. They often wear better under a jacket because they have less bulk. They also look better tucked in and don't poof as much.

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy

6. A relatively skinny black tie.
Black will serve for both suits and most needs so if you only want to buy one tie this would be it. If there are formal occasions in your future you might need a black bow tie as well. Yes, ready-tied is fine. (Hush don't tell Lord Akeldama.)

7. Trouser (or Dress) Socks.
"When wearing dress pants or casual pants, apart from jeans, the color of your socks should be dictated by the color of your pants and not by the shade of your shoes."
~ From Ask Men

8. Black formal shoes.
I leave the style up to you. I dislike a square toe, and kind of like a pointy modern look, but if you're struggling I'd opt for something simple. Oxfords are a great choice, wingtips if you want a little flash, spectators if you want a lot.

That is really all you need. Amazing.

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy
 1960s  The Victoria & Albert Museum

Packing for a trip?

Mix up your suits for other events. Use the grey trousers where you might wear jeans for a more formal daytime look. Invest in some nice colored fitted t-shirts (blue, green, graphic black & white) for less formal occasions for under the jacket. Add a great pair of dark wash boot-cut non-distressed jeans, and one or two fancy patterned shirts, a good trench or warm overcoat or a black leather blazer (depending on the weather) and you have the perfect wardrobe suited to almost any occasion.

Suit Samples

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf DandyMenswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy
 Modern grey suit & a Lounge Suit 1911 The Los Angeles County Museum of Art
How little has changed.

Modern and vintage takes on the grey suit. Note that the modern one is generally a slimmer cut and has been paired with a faint check shirt and brown accessorizes for a very contemporary twist? The vintage look paired grey with blue, a classic combination that never gets old (joke intended).

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf DandyMenswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy
 Right is 1961  The Victoria & Albert Museum

Black formal suits modern and vintage. Again, note the looser cut in the vintage look? But otherwise little has changed. Although both vintage examples are three piece suits, which brings us to . . .

Addendum . . . Going Retro

So you have your two classic suits, what next?

The 3 Piece Suit.
I always suggest if a matched vest is offered for your suit that you spring for it. Why? Because it adds an instant vintage component to your look.

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy
 James Bond in a grey 3 piece, the vest has a small shawl collar.

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf DandyMenswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy
 Modern takes on the vest are both collarless. In the first we see a casual grey version without a tie and with brown shoes, and the second is a formal take with all the trimmings.

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy
Jean Patou in that late 1920s wearing with a double breasted cross over vest with a shawl collar under a single buttoned jacket.

Shawl collars are difficult to find now, but very vintage looking, so if you think you are only going to use the vest for steampunk, costume, and retro events than go for it.

As with jackets I strongly suggest single breasted vests (as opposed to double breasted waistcoats).

Also, its a good idea to pay close attention to where the top button of the vest sits (the neckline's stance). Not only does this dictate how much of the tie is seen but it should be dependent on the stance of the jacket. If the jacked buttons higher, the vest should go higher up, as seen in the very first look. When jacket is buttoned you should see the top button of the vest, sometimes the second to the top.

There are some fun ways to pars out a 3 piece. For example:

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf DandyMenswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy
Jean Patou 1924

The check suit.
Madmen has much to answer for, this is one of them. I suggest making certain you have the bases covered. Then, if you are ready, go vintage shopping and find some kind of outrageous check suit or sport coat. Why not? Break all the rules, rock a wide tie too!

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy

Sweaters
A pull-over v-neck sweater is a good addition to a man's wardrobe. It adds that vintage feel when worn with the white shirt, suit trousers, and a tie. Good for sporting events, added warmth, or the very casual meet-up. I'd go for a nice neutral soft blue, grey, or taupe/mushroom.


Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf DandyMenswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy

The turtleneck.
The turtleneck with a suit is an . . . option. Be careful though. It can look quite pretentious.

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf DandyMenswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy

"Happily, Woman is much more susceptible to external polish than Man is."
~ Etiquette for Ladies, c. 1850

Menswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf Dandy
Romancing the Werewolf has the cutest cover ever & is up for preorder. 
Releases Nov 5th! 
Amazon | B&N | Apple | Kobo

Lyall is wearing a Dark Garden Beau Brummel custom corset.

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.
Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can shop my recommendations via the following lists:
Steampunk, Retro Jewelry, Makeup, Retro Clothes, Lifestyle


Product links on this blog are usually to Amazon using my associate code. At no additional cost to you this means I get a slight kick back if you make a purchase. Thank you! This allows me to continue to produce this blog without sponsors.

Men of Steampunk Style ~ From Biffy to Lyall with Everything In Between from Gail Carriger


Here, Fashionable Reader, I put together a bit of a design board for masculine steampunk garb. In honor of Romancing the Werewolf, my first gay romance set in my steampunk Parasolverse.

Men of Steampunk Style ~ From Biffy to Lyall with Everything In Between from Gail Carriger

I thought I'd provide you all with some fun images to inspire either for yourself or another. Because, my dears, these men are certainly inspiring!

Men of Steampunk Style ~ From Biffy to Lyall with Everything In Between from Gail CarrigerMen of Steampunk Style ~ From Biffy to Lyall with Everything In Between from Gail Carriger

Men of Steampunk Style ~ From Biffy to Lyall with Everything In Between from Gail CarrigerMen of Steampunk Style ~ From Biffy to Lyall with Everything In Between from Gail CarrigerMen of Steampunk Style ~ From Biffy to Lyall with Everything In Between from Gail Carriger

Men of Steampunk Style ~ From Biffy to Lyall with Everything In Between from Gail Carriger

Men of Steampunk Style ~ From Biffy to Lyall with Everything In Between from Gail Carriger
My dear friends. The gentleman at the front inspired Tunstell!

Men of Steampunk Style ~ From Biffy to Lyall with Everything In Between from Gail CarrigerMen of Steampunk Style ~ From Biffy to Lyall with Everything In Between from Gail Carriger

Men of Steampunk Style ~ From Biffy to Lyall with Everything In Between from Gail CarrigerMen of Steampunk Style ~ From Biffy to Lyall with Everything In Between from Gail Carriger


Men of Steampunk Style ~ From Biffy to Lyall with Everything In Between from Gail Carriger
My Darling friend portraying Lyall!

Men of Steampunk Style ~ From Biffy to Lyall with Everything In Between from Gail CarrigerMen of Steampunk Style ~ From Biffy to Lyall with Everything In Between from Gail Carriger

Men of Steampunk Style ~ From Biffy to Lyall with Everything In Between from Gail Carriger
Romancing the Werewolf has the cutest cover ever & is up for preorder. 
Releases Nov 5th! 
Amazon | B&N | Apple | Kobo

Lyall is wearing a Dark Garden Beau Brummel custom corset.

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can shop my recommendations via the following lists:
Steampunk, Retro Jewelry, Makeup, Retro Clothes, Lifestyle


Product links on this blog are usually to Amazon using my associate code. At no additional cost to you this means I get a slight kick back if you make a purchase. Thank you! This allows me to continue to produce this blog without sponsors.

The Men of Steampunk by Gail Carriger

Here, Fashionable Reader, I put together a bit of a design board for masculine steampunk garb.
Many from the Saturday of Comic Con 2012, at the Steamy gathering.

The Men of Steampunk by Gail Carriger

I thought I'd provide you all with some fun images to inspire either for yourself or another. Because, my dears, these men are certainly inspiring!

The Men of Steampunk by Gail Carriger The Men of Steampunk by Gail Carriger

The Men of Steampunk by Gail Carriger
Cheeky Tee is cheeky.

The Men of Steampunk by Gail Carriger The Men of Steampunk by Gail Carriger The Men of Steampunk by Gail Carriger

The Men of Steampunk by Gail Carriger

The Men of Steampunk by Gail Carriger

The Men of Steampunk by Gail Carriger The Men of Steampunk by Gail Carriger

The Men of Steampunk by Gail Carriger The Men of Steampunk by Gail Carriger


The Men of Steampunk by Gail Carriger

The Men of Steampunk by Gail Carriger The Men of Steampunk by Gail Carriger


Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.
Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail CarrigerMenswear Basics ~ Hacking Style for Dudes from a Werewolf DandyMen of Steampunk Style ~ From Biffy to Lyall with Everything In Between from Gail CarrigerDressing Percy & Quesnel ~ Custard ProtocolFinishing School: But What Were Bunson's Boys Wearing? with Gail CarrigerMen's Fashion Retrospective ~ After 1900 by Gail Carriger Men's Fashion Retrospective ~ Victorian Fashion Before 1900 by Gail Carriger Then & Now ~ Crossdressing LadiesGail Carriger's 8 New AcquisitionsThe Men of Steampunk by Gail Carriger

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