Retro Rack

10 facts Gail wishes others knew about Upper Class Victorian clothing.

1. Gown = Bodice + Skirt

Ball Gown  1900-1905  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Most gowns and dresses were in two or more parts: the top (or bodice) and the bottom (or skirt/overskirt/underskirt+overskirt). The two were sewn (yes on the wearer), tied, or hooked together. (This continued into the Edwardian era.)



This lead to transformation outfits: same skirt, different bodice dictating different occasions and allowing for double use. Very practical.

2. Lots of Layers

There is usually an article of clothing both under the corset and over the corset. 



Under: Depending on time and class, was called a: chemise, petticoat (which, as the name "small coat"  implies had a top part like a slip as well as a bottom part), slip, combination, or camisole.

Corset Cover  1900  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Over: Camisole (yes called same thing as above) or a corset cover. Then the bodice of the dress, that's so long as there wasn't also a chemisette (which is a little like a Dickey) required for day (see bellow #3).

3. Detachable Sleeves

Sleeves could be detachable (like those worn by bakers to protect the bottom of their sleeves from flour) and were called undersleeves.

Chemisette, Undersleeves, and Handkerchief  1860s  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

In the 1890s there was a brief fad for cage sleeve supports as well.

Sleeve Supports  1890s  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

4. Colorful Stockings

Stockings could be very colorful and were held up with garters (not a garter belts), or garter straps which were attached to the corset and went down over the drawers and bottom part of the chemise often causing them to bunch up.

Stockings  1860s  The Victoria & Albert Museum

5. Drawers, to Split or Not to Split?

Split drawers appear in the late 1840s and continue through the 1910s but drawers were also sewn closed during the Victorian Era. During the Regency Era evidence suggests drawers were not split, but then, corsets were so short drawers didn't need to be split as the waistband din't tuck into the corset.

Split Drawers 1900s  The Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

Split Underwear 1916  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

A further note on drawers: In England, even during their surge in popularity in Europe, women did not wear pantalettes (ankle length drawers) only girls. Later period knickerbockers were shorter and more practical than drawers but did not entirely replace them. Bloomers is a term not really used in England until after 1910.

6. They Stuffed

Bust Improvers  1890s  Whitaker Auctions

Bust improvers were introduced in the 1880s, so yes, the Victorians stuffed.

7. Leather Undies

In the 1860s some undergarments were made of chamois leather, for added support, and layered over cloth. I had a hard time finding a picture of this, although written evidence abounds, but here are some leather stays from the time.

8. Stays Please!

Corset  1897-1899  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Speaking of which, corsets were never talked about in public. If for some reason they had to be mentioned (between ladies of the same age, or in written form), they would be referred to as stays or (better) foundation garments. The word "corset" appears to be mainly used in late period advertisements. Whether there was a recognized difference between the two terms at the time is unclear.

8 From the 1897 Sears, Roebuck & Co. Catalog

Godeys Nov 1872 Waist for child of a year old, to button skirts on, made of white muslin, trimmed with worked edging. Ladies chemise yoke and sleeves, made of insertion and tucks edged with lace.

9. Maid Required

With the exception of some tea gowns and carriage dresses worn, if a lady was daring enough, without stays, it was actually impossible for an upperclass woman to dress herself (or undress, for that matter).


Yes, if you are flexible you can button up the back of your own bodice, or even lace your own corset, but most gowns were custom designed to go over a tight lacing and that requires a dresser or lady's maid (unless you're wicked strong and flexible). Speaking of which, corset laces are pulled tight to either side, not straight back. Images like the one above are a joke and the technique would not be effective.

Yes, I'm aware of the recreationest YouTube out there claiming this isn't true (but note her dresses button up the FRONT and she is very relax laced), and I can get into my own full Victorian, but I'm never laced tight, I'm never sewn in, and I'm never fully preiod accurate, because...

I'd need a maid!

10. Occasion Dressing

Gowns had designated times and places they could be worn: from sportswear specific to event specific to occasion specific to time of day. This changed throughout the Victorian era.


Here's a short list from Gail's memory (a lady did not need to actually have one of each!): nightgown, peignoir, wrapper, negligée, dressing gown, morning dress, tea gown, day dress, walking dress, promenade ensemble, visiting gown, afternoon dress, dinner dress, evening dress, ball gown, reception gown, court dress, wedding dress, opera dress, fancy dress, masquerade costume, ice skating ensemble, tennis wear, riding habit, bicycling ensemble, hunting outfit, shooting outfit, country dress (the tweeds), picnic ensemble, travel gown, carriage dress.


Plus outerwear. Plus many of the same in various shades of mourning (full mourning, half mourning, and mauves for extended mourning for the pious).


The under privileged usually only had three dresses: a working dress (sometimes this could be a uniform or livery), a day dress (for home activities usually worn covered with a pinafore or apron), and Sunday Best.

Much of the same holds true for a man

Which is to say:
* He had lots of clothing in multiple parts some of which hooked together so it wouldn't shift around.
* He wore many layers.
* There were such things as chest and calf improvers (padding).
* He might have had chamois leather undergarments.
* Men undergarments were not talked about in public.
* He needed someone to dress him, which is why even bachelors kept a "man" (his valet). What Jeeves calls a "gentleman's personal gentleman."

Leather Underwear For Men

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

Hello Fashionable Reader! I've been doing a lot of research recently for my latest book, Deportment & Deceit. One of those things was delving into reticules.


We covered purses this week, so I thought a bit of purses from the past might be fun.



No, I'm not going to cover the history of the reticule, you can read about it yourself if you have a mind. Here it is covered in the manual for dressing a Victorian woman, and 1800 Accessories. I will only remark that the interesting thing is how very small they are. This is because a lady rarely carried anything with her. If she went shopping, she went with family (or a dear friend) and brought a maid. The maid would pay for everything small, or discus payment, if credit was to used. Credit was usually used for larger purchases, like dresses which were commissioned, not bought outright from the shop floor. A lady might visit the shop to look over fabric and trim selections and to discuss styles from the latest catalogs, the shop would make it up and then send it to her, at which point the butler or housekeeper woudl pay for the delivery and enter it into the household accounts. Ladies did not talk about money and they certainly did not handle it.

A reticule was merely for fripperies. It was often bought from a shop, however. Accessories, gloves, slippers, boots, fans, parasols, wraps, shawls, and jewelry were all items that could be displayed and selected, although the very wealthy might have the made or died to match. Hats bridged the gap, you might select the style and the straw and then have it decorated to go with a dress. Made up hats were also popular, but a little daring, hence the racy nature of Madame Lefoux's hat shop.



 Victorian ones weren't quite so elegant, and could get rather like one of Ivy's hats, covered in tassels, ribbons, bows and so forth. In fact, Sophronia, the main character in the Finishing School series, uses a reticule to disguise, on various occasions, a prototype, a cheese pie and a mechanical animal. Useful things, reticules.


Reticules can be crocheted if you have the skill, of you can made a passable retro one by using and old doily.


I kind of love the first one, it looks a little like a hot air balloon.


Embroidered is another fun option. For me the more ridiculous the better. But then when it comes to Victorian wear, the more ridiculous the better.




And here's a sample of my own personal collection.


Pineapple shaped reticule, gift from a  dear friend, hand made! Velvet burgundy with shear black overlay and lace edge plus tassel. And iridescent square with uber tassel.


The steampunk outfits I carry them with. Good luck my dears, reticules are So Much Fun!!!

OK, people call this article of clothing by many different names. I call it a capelet. By this I mean it does not have sleeves. A capelet with sleeves is a bolero swing, in my universe. But is does have a collar and it is cut to hang over the shoulders, otherwise it's more of a stole or a shawl.

And it is made for warmth (at least ostensibly) and not a beeded confection for decoration that ties in front. That is a fichu. Sometimes, particularly knitted ones, capelets are done as a circle, or part of a circle. I tend to like the ones that have some kind of shoulder built in, I think it drapes better over the Rack.


I really love the neck warmers, but they aren't capelets, more like excited chokers or collars. I have a beautiful one from Clockwork Couture.



I like fuzzy capelets, I think the shorter length lends itself to the added volume. No, it doesn't have to be real fur. Mine happens to be fake. Instead it can be fuzzy knitted angora or made of feathers.



Mine came from H&M some 6 years ago, a present costing round about $15.

I do really love the capelets that look like tiny little capes. But I don't wear my cream one all that often, so I can't justify another investment.