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THE WATCHISMO TIMES WATCH BLOG A reliquary of obscure timepieces from bygone eras as well as the cutting-edge watch designs of today.

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Black Power! Limited Edition MB&F Horological Machine No. 1

Black Power! Limited Edition MB&F Horological Machine No. 1Horological Machine No1 - Black and Rose Gold

The Final Editions

In 2006, MB&F presented Horological Machine No1 (HM1): a groundbreaking wristwatch that both launched MB&F and introduced the world to the then radical concept of three-dimensional kinetic sculpture as timekeeping machines. To pay homage to the end of this pivotal model, MB&F have crafted two final stunning variations, each in a very limited series of only ten pieces: HM1-Black and HM1-RS.

HM1-Black offers the ultimate in contrasts with its white gold case shrouded by a veil of coal-black. The subdued dark, though eye-catching in itself, offers the perfect foil for the burst of light that radiates from the dial. The blackened tourbillon cage allows the eye to glide past deep into the movement, while the bright blue of both the hands and the solid gold rotor provides a brilliant splash of color in an otherwise two-tone landscape.

HM1-RS features a red gold case that highlights the architecturally inspired and artistically sculptured three-dimensional case, and an intriguing transparent dial allows visual access to the top of the meticulously finished movement. The dial is ‘intriguing’ because, depending on the angle of view, it can change from being completely transparent to acting as a highly reflective now-you-see-it-now-you-don’t mirror.

Both HM1-Black and HM1-RS feature hours and minutes on separate dials, a raised central one-minute tourbillon, a seven-day power reserve, four mainspring barrels and both automatic and manual winding.

The hours and minutes are indicated on their respective etched-sapphire bridges augmented by precision laser-cut applied numerals, and a rotating disk indicates the seven-day power reserve on the right-hand dial.

An extra-wide custom tapered strap, complemented by a bespoke buckle, completes the timepiece.

Exclusive is hardly the right word for these two extremely limited editions of just 10 pieces each.

Black Power! Limited Edition MB&F Horological Machine No. 1
MB&F website->LINK

Related MB&F, Max Busser, and Horological Machine Posts-->LINK

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New Brand - Ladoire Geneve Helvet Mechanic RGT (Roller Guardian Time) Watch

New Brand - Ladoire Geneve Helvet Mechanic RGT (Roller Guardian Time) WatchFollowing in the footsteps of independent watch brands like Hautlence, 36 year old watch designer Lionel Ladoire has introduced his first collection featuring the Timepiece Roller Guardian Time. A limited edition series of 40 watches are planned for their first year of production.

Ladoire's first timekeeper offers an unusual view. Time is displayed by revolving indicators that turn on ball bearings. There is one single hand displaying a second time zone. A deep recess in the middle of the hour-indicator shows some of the entrails of the custom- made movement by ASXP-Engineering, an enterprise that also works for Hautlence and MCT. The large pusher on the right adjusts the second time-zone.


New Brand - Ladoire Geneve Helvet Mechanic RGT (Roller Guardian Time) WatchClose-up of dial with hours disc (upper left), minutes (lower center), and seconds (upper right), and a GMT second time zone at the center.

New Brand - Ladoire Geneve Helvet Mechanic RGT (Roller Guardian Time) WatchThe back of the watch reveals some further interesting details of the movement. The micro-rotor for the automatic winding is covered by a circular disc giving it a perfectly balanced look. The balance-wheel bridge shows the two attachments for the Moser double hairspring coming from Precision Engineering in Schaffhausen. A spiderweb on the barrel is part of the corporate design.


New Brand - Ladoire Geneve Helvet Mechanic RGT (Roller Guardian Time) WatchSide-view with GMT regulator

New Brand - Ladoire Geneve Helvet Mechanic RGT (Roller Guardian Time) WatchFrench watch designer Lionel Ladoire

Ladoire website--> LINK

Related Posts;
Hautlence Watches
Independent Watch Brands


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Preview - Ulysse Nardin Mechanical Cellphone to be Announced at Baselworld

Preview - Ulysse Nardin Mechanical Cellphone to be Announced at Baselworld
Celebrated Swiss vanguard watchmaker Ulysse Nardin has partnered with the European firm, SCI Innovations, to create the world's first hybrid smart phone: the Chairman.

Inherently green, this smart phone pairs cutting-edge kinetic technology with the pedigree of the 163-year-old timepiece innovator.

The Chairman will be launched the end of March at Baselworld 2009 at Ulysse Nardin’s booth.

While details are limited, it has been confirmed that the Chairman will be able to use any mobile phone service provider in the world and includes several components never seen before in a smart phone.

It will incorporate a Ulysse Nardin designed kinetic rotor system which is blended into the mechanical and aesthetical design of the smart phone. This smart-phone is hand-assembled under the strictest guidelines mandated by Ulysse Nardin.

More information during its launch at Baselworld.

All Ulysse Nardin posts at The Watchismo Times--> LINK

Ulysse Nardin watch website--> LINK
Ulysse Nardin UNCells website--> LINK

via Timezone


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New Releases - Linde Werdelin SpidoLite

New Releases - Linde Werdelin SpidoLite
New Releases - Linde Werdelin SpidoLiteGadget and horological aficionados trying to balance durability with weight have a stylish new option. The SpidoLite, from Danish watchmaker Linde Werdelin, employs a titanium casing that drastically reduces the overall weight. Reportedly made at the request of mountaineer Morten Linde before he climbed Mount Everest, the casing is drilled into an "exoskeleton" form that further lightens the load while giving it a striking, incomplete appearance.

Particularly exciting for vintage watch fans, the SpidoLite uses a 1970s automatic movement that was personally modified by founding member of the ACHI, Svend Anderson.

The SpidoLite is produced in a single batch of only 44 and will officially hit the market at BaselWorld 2009. It's expected to retail for €9,000 and will be available in April.

New Releases - Linde Werdelin SpidoLiteBlack DLC SpidoLite with detachable "instrument" and yellow Sapphire crystal

via Coolhunting & KronosBlog

Linde Werdelin website-->Link
Svend Anderson website-->Link

New Releases - Linde Werdelin SpidoLitePreviously featured Linde Werdelin Bifometer Watch->Link

Read these other unusual watch stories from The Watchismo Times;

Horological Weaponry
Shoot To Kilfitt - Subminiature Camera-Watch
Subminiature Camera Watches
Steinheil Camera Watch
Victorian Camera Pocket Watch
1950s Minifon Spy Recorder Watch
Compartment Scroll Watch
Victorian Wrist Horn
Rolex Lipstick Watch
Omega Ring Watch
Rolex Ring Watch
Walking Stick Watches
History of Calculating Devices
James Bond Movie Gadget Watches

Not Enough? More Odd Watch Stories-->LINK


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New Releases - De Bethune Dream Watch No.2 Silicon-Titanium Tourbillon 2009

New Releases - De Bethune Dream Watch No.2 Silicon-Titanium Tourbillon 2009As its defining characteristic, the calibre DB2009 employs the lightest tourbillon in the world designed entirely in silicon and titanium and having neither a cage nor the traditional pillars, but incorporating the latest temperature-compensated silicon / platinum balance. The frequency of this new hand-wound mechanical calibre is 36,000 vibrations per hour and inside a 30 second tourbillon.

The Dream Watch Two possesses the lightest tourbillion in the world. This anorexic tourbillion is a slim, U-shaped silicon cage and a platinum ring surrounding the balance wheel, weighing a total of 0.18 grams. The tourbillion is extremely interesting but I have little technical details. Again, this watch is incredibly well finished. Incredibly. 10 pieces will be made each year.

via Horomundi

New Releases - De Bethune Dream Watch No.2 Silicon-Titanium Tourbillon 2009
New Releases - De Bethune Dream Watch No.2 Silicon-Titanium Tourbillon 2009Power reserve indicator on the back of Tourbillon 2009



New Releases - De Bethune Dream Watch No.2 Silicon-Titanium Tourbillon 2009Dream One with annular balance.
(and three-dimensional moonphase)


The simple oscillator of the mechanical calibre DB2016, designed by De4 Bethune, is a genuine achievement in the world of watchmaking. The balance spring of the regulating organ is not visible; it is concealed within an annular balance consisting of a central silicon disc surrounded by a thin ring of polished platinum which can be seen through the dial.


New Releases - De Bethune Dream Watch No.2 Silicon-Titanium Tourbillon 2009

Annular Balance: The balance spring of the regulating organ is not visible; it is concealed within an annular balance consisting of a central silicon disc surrounded by a thin ring of polished platinum which can be seen through the dial.


See much more from Ian Skellern at Horomundi-->LINK

De Bethune Dream Watch One photomontage-->LINK


DeBethune official website-->LINK


Other Related Independent Watch Brand Features at The Watchismo Times-->LINK


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New Release - 2009 Dewitt Academia Tourbillon Force Constante à Chaîne

New Release - 2009 Dewitt Academia Tourbillon Force Constante à ChaîneDeWitt has enhanced its constant force tourbillon with a system that relays energy to its associated power reserve indicator. Rotating the crown when winding the barrel-spring drives a miniature chain, which uses an intermediate wheel to activate the power reserve indicator sliding on a worm screw. Three years after developing a patented regulating system – three extra wheels transmitting impulses of identical force to the tourbillon, whatever the barrel’s degree of tension

New Release - 2009 Dewitt Academia Tourbillon Force Constante à Chaîneclose-up of dial

New Release - 2009 Dewitt Academia Tourbillon Force Constante à Chaîneclose-up of chain mechanism

New Release - 2009 Dewitt Academia Tourbillon Force Constante à Chaîne
DeWitt website-->LINK

Related Post;
DeWitt's Bizarre Incognito Concept No. 1-->LINK

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Black Moon Rising - Stepan Sarpaneva's Korona K3 Black Moon

Black Moon Rising - Stepan Sarpaneva's Korona K3 Black Moon
Black Moon Rising
by Alex Doak for The Watchismo Times

Stepan Sarpaneva's coolness factor continues to ascend. Probably the only watchmaker I know to attend Baselworld in jeans and t-shirt, he’s always deflected the stuffy purists with a bulletproof CV: complications watchmaker at Parmigiani, Vianney Halter and Christophe Claret…? Getouttahere!

Black Moon Rising - Stepan Sarpaneva's Korona K3 Black Moon

It’s no wonder he’s made it alone since 2004, with an eponymous brand of watches defined by his homeland’s brutal winters and a lifelong passion for heavy metal and motorbikes. (I told you he was cool!) As with its motorsport champions, Finland turns out a disproportionately high number of talented watchmakers – 38 per year to be precise – thanks to the Kelloseppä Koulu watchmaking school, but they all tend to migrate to repair shops or Swiss brands – even Kari Voutilainen, who defected years ago. Stepan therefore enjoys the rare privilege of being the only mechanical watch brand in Finland. As Stepan puts it himself: “I am on my own. This is the Finnish way; the melancholy; the loneliness…”

Black Moon Rising - Stepan Sarpaneva's Korona K3 Black Moon

It was to Stepan’s workshop in Nokia’s old cable factory in Helsinki – now an über-hip commune of cool arty types – that a select bunch of journalists and friends gravitated in late January. Gesturing across the vast industrial plot, he declares, “One day, all this will be mine!” before we board a rickety elevator and creep down a squeaky-clean corridor. Through an anonymous door, we find Stepan’s prodigal recruits from Kelloseppä, Hanna and Jarmo, beavering away on ranks of Korona watches – an ultra-cool feat of skeletonization first leaked on these pages.


Black Moon Rising - Stepan Sarpaneva's Korona K3 Black Moon
Black Moon Rising - Stepan Sarpaneva's Korona K3 Black Moon

The eagle-eyed were pleased to spot several clues to Stepan’s pedigree dotted around the workshop: besides the obligatory framed portrait of Breguet, a littala vase (Stepan’s uncle Timo Sarpaneva designed the iconic “i” logo in 1956), a poster of his mother modeling latticework jewelery by his designer father Pentti, a hand sculpture by Pentti holding Stepan’s original Harley Davidson kick-start-pinion pocket watch… and, er, a stack of Monster Magnet CDs.

Black Moon Rising - Stepan Sarpaneva's Korona K3 Black Moon

It was then to the ferry terminal, where we were conveyed to Helsinki’s beautiful UNESCO world heritage site, the Sea Fortress. Deep within the metre-thick bunker walls, by the flickering light of rusty candelabra, the purpose of our visit was finally unveiled: the Black Moon. It's a moonphase Korona K3, but, in a world-first, shows the New Moon rather than the Full Moon. It’s named after the opposite astrological event to a Blue Moon: when two New Moons occur within a single lunar cycle. What's more, Stepan has teamed up with a local illustrator and an aspiring poet to spin a Gothic fairytale around the whole thing, based on the legend of Lilith, the temptress demon who preys on unwitting men by night, as an owl. I know what you’re thinking, but, it all holds together well! Unfortunately you’ll have to buy the watch (€12,500) to see for yourself as the book of eight illustrations and the poem will only accompany the 20 editions.


Black Moon Rising - Stepan Sarpaneva's Korona K3 Black MoonUltimately, this Black Moon triptych answers a singular brief posed to his artistic collaborators by Stepan from the very start: to evoke the unique melancholy of Finland's relentless winter: “While I make the watches, you make the story!” It’s all terribly brooding and morbid, but it’s done in a terribly hip, black turtleneck type of way. Another slice of predictable cool from the scruffy Finn.

Black Moon Rising - Stepan Sarpaneva's Korona K3 Black Moon

Black Moon Rising - Stepan Sarpaneva's Korona K3 Black Moon


Sarpaneva Watches Website--> LINK

All Alex Doak Posts--> LINK

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Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your Veins

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your VeinsThe Urwerk Tarantula, a brand new design from the Lennon and McCartney of the watch world - actually.. correction, the Jagger and Richards since Time is on Their Side. Watchmaker Felix Baumgartner and designer Martin Frei are appropriately at the Let It Bleed of their career.

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your Veins
Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your Veins
The ‘T’ in the 103T is at first a mystery, but only until the first look down through the massive sapphire crystal into the mechanism below. There you will sense a shape before you see it. A form slowly emerges from the orbital cross and stretches its mesmerising legs: ‘T’ for Tarantula. URWERK’s latest addition to the UR103 collection has a few genetic codes borrowed from one of the most famous members of the world of arachnids.

In the UR103T, the titanium cross has been replaced by a completely redesigned structure in ARCAP, a very stable copper/nickel alloy. The dark ARCAP wraps around the hour satellites in a protective embrace. This new configuration ensures that the numbers on the hour satellites can only be seen when they are required to tell the time while passing the arc of the minutes.
The actual mechanism for rotating the satellites has been completely modified on the UR103T. With this model the satellites rotate simultaneously behind the scenes in multiple stages, in preparation for their turn to indicate the time. They actually perform a four-beat 480° pirouette. Each satellite turns four 120° turns in the period between leaving the minute arc and arriving again with a new numeral displaying. The orbital satellite complication is over 300 times heavier than traditional hands, a factor that requires absolute precision in the manufacture of its minuscule components, and in assembling, balancing and regulating the complication to obtain an excellent chronometric performance.

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your VeinsThe Time Spider

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your VeinsUrwerk Tarantula's fangs reach deep into your wrist

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your VeinsYou can almost see the blood dripping from the wound

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your Veins
Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your VeinsAn early Urwerk with covered case, cool as %$#@!

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your VeinsThe Maestro Baumgartner

URWERK website-->LINK

All Urwerk Posts at The Watchismo Times-->LINK


Wristshots via Horomundi


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Black Power! Limited Edition MB&F Horological Machine No. 1New Brand - Ladoire Geneve Helvet Mechanic RGT (Roller Guardian Time) WatchPreview - Ulysse Nardin Mechanical Cellphone to be Announced at BaselworldNew Releases - Linde Werdelin SpidoLiteNew Releases - De Bethune Dream Watch No.2 Silicon-Titanium Tourbillon 2009New Release - 2009 Dewitt Academia Tourbillon Force Constante à ChaîneBlack Moon Rising - Stepan Sarpaneva's Korona K3 Black MoonUrwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your Veins

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