close

Watchismo Times | category: Haute | (page 4 of 11)

home

Watchismo Times

THE WATCHISMO TIMES WATCH BLOG A reliquary of obscure timepieces from bygone eras as well as the cutting-edge watch designs of today.

watchismo.blogspot.com

Urwerk 202 Hammerhead Automatic at 2008 SIHH

From Urwerk's presentation of the new UR-202 Twin Turbine-->Link

UR202 Promotional Video-->Link

The UR-202 is the world’s first watch with the winding rate regulated by fluid dynamics.

As long ago as the 18th century, clockmakers were using air friction to regulate the speed of chiming clocks, and their techniques evolved to become the preferred method of regulating the rate of chimes on minute-repeaters.

With the UR-202, URWERK have taken the traditional idea of using air friction and refined it to control the rate of automatic winding.
The traditional rotating vanes of the past have been replaced by cutting-edge miniature twin turbines - miniature air compressors - which can be seen spinning on the back of the watch.


Urwerk turbines

The UR-202’s twin turbines are coupled with the winding rotor. According to the position of the selector lever, the turbines act as shock absorbers.
In normal activity they cushion sharp movements of the rotor. This reduces wear and increases the lifespan of the movement.
While the selector position is continuously variable, the three principal positions are: normal activity, where the turbines spin freely; vigorous activity, where the air pressure generated by the turbines reduces the winding rate by approximately 35%; and extreme activity, where the turbines and rotor are fully blocked.


The turbine system is totally self-contained within the waterproof case. The air flows from under the turbines and is channeled up past them under a sapphire plate and down through holes leading to a tiny air chamber.

The turbines are controlled by a 3-position selector switch. This functions by adjusting the level of air compression the turbines generate by selectively regulating the amount of air flowing from inside the case.

The spinning turbines force air through holes into a tiny air chamber. The selector switch controls the amount of air escaping from the turbines.
By restricting the airflow, it increases the air pressure and slows down the turbines and the winding rotor.


The UR-202 also features URWERK’s patented Revolving Satellite Complication with telescopic minutes hands.

The Revolving Satellite Complication displays time using telescopic minutes hands operating through the middle of three orbiting and revolving hours satellites. The telescopic minutes hands precisely adjust their length to follow the three sectors marking the minutes: 0-14, 15-44, 45-60.

Extended, they enable the UR-202 to display the time across a large, easy-to-read dial. Retracted, they allow for a very wearable and comfortably sized case.


Photo->Link


Related Posts;
ALL URWERK STORIES-->Link

See Also;
Urwerk Website->Link
Ian Skellern's (R)Evolution of Urwerk->Link
Horomundi's Complete Urwerk Story->Link



Urwerk's first model, the Nightwatch Wandering Hour



| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |


Subscribe to The Watchismo Times
Enter your email

Delivered by FeedBurner

Papillon by Andreas Strehler

Watchmaker Andreas Strehler is introducing the Papillon, his independent follow-up to last years Opus 7 for Harry Winston.

Strehler's representative Curtis Thomson of Tempered Online described it for me;

"The Papillon functions differently than the Opus 7. The 7’s time was actuated via a button in the crow, with hours and minutes indicated on one disc – an ingenious system. The Papillon has two separate discs (an hours disc and a minutes disc), with each of the two mainspring barrels receiving a time disc. Normally this wouldn’t be possible, as the barrel turns too fast to indicate the hours and turns too slowly to indicate the minutes… normally. Andreas has developed a system to allow this to happen, with winding and time setting done with the crown. How? Some crazy ass gearing – that’s how ;-). The Papillon is artistic and technical – a super watch." The price is 140,000 CHF

“How to tell the time?” The “butterfly” bridge has two points – one towards the top and the second towards the bottom – which indicate the time (hours on top, minutes on bottom) as the respective discs travel past."


Watching The Passage of Time

At this year's Basel World, Swiss watchmaker Andreas Strehler will be presenting his latest masterpiece, the Papillon, for the first time. This watch, with its unusual time display, is fascinating at first sight and it inspires not only timepiece connoisseurs.

The Creation

The unusual movement design was first employed in 2007. That was when renowned watch manufacturer, Harry Winston, asked Andreas Strehler if he would like to develop the legendary OPUS 7. Andreas Strehler, who had previously already collaborated with Chronoswiss, H.Moser&Cie and Maurice Lacroix, took up the challenge. He set himself the aim of designing a watch movement that would be captivating in its technical brilliance. But it still had to be easy to tell the time with it. At this stage he probably did not suppose that telling the time was actually to become a particular pleasure.

This concept is repeated in his latest work, the Papillon, but with Andreas Strehler's unmistakable signature and new technical refinements. The design and virtuoso technical sophistication of the watch movement puts everything that came before it into the shade, turning the watch into a coveted collector's item.


Mysterious Time Display

Spring barrels normally turn too slowly for the display of minutes and too fast for the hours. But in the Papillon the timing works differently. Its spring barrels are not firmly tied into the sequence of the movement. As a result the time display can be adjusted by means of the hand setting. In addition, two giant gear wheels with 192 and 175 teeth remove the need for a third wheel. This reduction in the number of wheels and the double spring barrel arrangement result in energy savings which extend the life of the watch enormously.

Fascinating Design

Along with the technical advantages, the unusual design is also astounding. The first thing you notice when looking at the movement is the shape of a butterfly, which seems to arise naturally from the arrangement of the bridges, hence too the watch’s name, Papillon.
Thanks to the special arrangement of the gear wheels, it has been possible to design the watch in an open way, offering the user the special experience of being able to watch the passage of time. The movement assumes the function of design. The consistently applied flowing forms endow the watch with elegance, and are reminiscent of the famous technical masterpieces of the Art Nouveau era.


Expressive Yet Quiet

Constructing a beautiful watch takes time. And it takes patience and endurance to achieve the longed-for perfection. Andreas Strehler combines these virtues most impressively. Anyone who can call a watch by Andreas Strehler his own also possesses the certainty of having discovered something special and unique. The exclusivity, the outstanding engineering and the deliberate understatement of the Papillon do not need to be shouted from the rooftops. The watch speaks for itself, emphasising the unconventional character of the wearer.


Made in Switzerland

Andreas Strehler is the owner of Uhrteil AG in Sirnach, where with a team of twelve experts, watchmakers, technicians and precision mechanics, he pursues his passion. The team not only develops and produces all the movements for the innovative mechanisms itself, but also the machines and computer software needed to make them. Andreas Strehler is convinced that opportunities in the field of "haute horlogerie" are still far from being exhausted. We will just have to wait and see what the visionary comes up with next.




Strehler Opus 7 Video-->Link

Andreas Strehler's Tempered page-->Link


All New 2008 Watch Posts-->Link


| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |


Subscribe to The Watchismo Times
Enter your email

Delivered by FeedBurner

Phenomenal Photos of the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Tourbillon

Phenomenal Photos of the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso TourbillonThe Purists have posted some pretty amazing shots of the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 as well as some brain busting technical information.

Report-->Link


Phenomenal Photos of the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Tourbillon
See Also;
All Jaeger LeCoultre Posts
All Tourbillon Posts

All New 2008 Watch Posts-->Link


| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |


Subscribe to The Watchismo Times
Enter your email

Delivered by FeedBurner

CAD SCHMAD - Finally, A Real Photo of the Concord C1 Vertical Tourbillon Gravity

CAD SCHMAD - Finally, A Real Photo of the Concord C1 Vertical Tourbillon GravitySometimes these CAD renderings start all looking the same to me. Concord thankfully has provided The Watchismo Times with the first real world photos of their anticipated C1 Tourbillon Gravity. The Tourbillon is placed vertically and viewable from the side of the watch. More next week from Basel...

CAD SCHMAD - Finally, A Real Photo of the Concord C1 Vertical Tourbillon Gravity
Read more about the production at the Concord micro-site featuring a blog about its production-->Link


Related Posts;
All Tourbillon Stories

Vertical Tourbillon Cabestan
All New 2008 Watch Posts-->Link


| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |


Subscribe to The Watchismo Times
Enter your email

Delivered by FeedBurner

All Mechanical Digital - The MECCANICO dG by de GRISOGONO

All Mechanical Digital - The MECCANICO dG by de GRISOGONODe GRISOGONO is about to launch the worlds most complicated Mechanical Digital/Analog watch at Basel 2008. The MECCANICO dG has two time-zones with a traditional analog display on top but one of the more amazing digital displays at the bottom. A pure mechanical digital display imitating LED segments but in fact are rolling tubes! Granted this is a CAD rendering but the real watch will be shown in a few days at Baselworld in Switzerland. I'll be in Basel so stay tuned to The Watchismo Times for the first photos...

All Mechanical Digital - The MECCANICO dG by de GRISOGONO
The Meccanico Press Release;
RETURN TO THE FUTURE!

The inventors and designers of Haute Horlogerie enjoy a rare privilege: the luxury of choice. Existing constructional principles and concepts can of course always be revisited and reinterpreted but a design team can also decide to strike out in an entirely new direction. Founder and president of de GRISOGONO, Fawaz Gruosi naturally favors the second approach. With the MECCANICO dG, the Geneva-based house's latest entry, de GRISOGONO is introducing a design that projects hallowed horological traditions far into the future. With its 651 components, the MECCANICO dG's mechanical movement is one of the most intricate made today. A Haute Horlogerie timepiece with two distinct timezones, it is the first to display both analogue and digital time by mechanical means. This world first - and de GRISOGONO patent! - features a highly complex time mechanism inside a particularly contemporary design.

For his company's fifteenth anniversary, Fawaz Gruosi, founder and president of de GRISOGONO, was determined to break new ground and explore an area no watch manufacturer had ever ventured into: a digital display driven by an exclusively mechanical system. Although it took considerable confidence and even a touch of rashness to involve himself with a project of this kind, Fawaz Gruosi never looked back, intent on leading the brand into uncharted and definitely challenging territory.

With its patented double time display, both analogue and digital, the MECCANICO dG design inaugurates a totally novel concept in mechanical Haute Horlogerie. A single mechanical movement, twin timezones, two types of display - the MECCANICO dG embodies a major innovation, combining for the first time in the history of horology a digital time display and a mechanical power supply.

A NEW DIMENSION

The digital display is a child of the quartz era. At the time, electronics seemed to have won the day and mechanical timekeeping was under threat. Three decades later, magnificently intricate mechanical movements are more in demand than ever and Haute Horlogerie enjoying unprecedented success. The intervening years saw traditional watchmaking recover and reinvent itself. Generating invention after invention, creating ever more stunning, gloriously finished designs, traditional watchmaking has conferred objet d'art status on its most cunningly complex timepieces. Yet up to now, it had never revisited the digital time display. With the MECCANICO dG, this reluctance is now a thing of the past. The design propels horological history forward into a new dimension.

The MECCANICO dG can be described as a dense cluster of microsystems featuring extremely elaborate cam and gear assemblies. Its exclusive de GRISOGONO handwound mechanical movement comprises 651 components. It is composed of an analogue display of the hours and minutes on the upper dial and a digitally displayed second timezone on the lower dial. The mechanically operated digital display of the second timezone shows tens of hours, single hours, tens of minutes and single minutes, all displayed by mobile microsegments driven by an assemblage of 23 cams connected to a set of gears and a triggering and synchronization system.

The time information is displayed by an array of 23 horizontally and vertically positioned microsegments. Vertical segments are 9 mm high and weigh at most 25 milligrams while the horizontal segments measure 2.90 mm in length and weigh only 10 milligrams. The segments have four faces: two opposing visible faces fitted with colored strips and two opposing unmarked faces. Time changes are effected by 90° rotations of the required segment or segments. Involving one to twelve segments, time changes are lightning fast.

GROUNDBREAKING DESIGN

The MECCANICO dG's exclusive Haute Horlogerie technical design is matched by striking contemporary styling. Its intricate mechanical systems are visible through its transparent dial plate. Also featuring colored strips, the analogue time display's hour markers seem suspended in thin air so as to reveal the underlying mechanism. Like every de GRISOGONO movement, the MECCANICO dG's own caliber is meticulously finished and its components blackened. The words “de GRISOGONO” and “Swiss Made” are inscribed directly on the movement while the back of the watch features a nameplate bearing the name “MECCANICO dG”.

Despite the power needed to action the double analogue and digital display and the torque required to effect the instantaneous rotation of the digital display's microsegments, the MECCANICO's handwound mechanical movement, exclusive to de GRISOGONO, provides a power reserve of some 35 hours, visible through a cambered sapphire backplate on a 90° sectoral display on the movement's reverse side.

The MECCANICO dG case does justice to its exceptional movement. Notable for generous dimensions (56 x 48 mm) and camberedlines, water-resistant to 30 meters (~ 100 feet), this pioneering design is available in a choice of styles: titanium, titanium and red gold, titanium and rubber and titanium and platinum. In keeping with the design's futuristic allure, its correctors and the crown guard are fashioned from vulcanized rubber. Its analogue display is set by the crown opposite 3 o'clock while the second timezone is set by a pair of correctors - for hours at left, for minutes at right. Also crafted from vulcanized rubber, the strap is fitted with a deployment clasp buckle featuring the de GRISOGONO crest.

Launched to mark an exceptional horological year at de GRISOGONO, the MECCANICO dG is being produced in a limited edition of 177 watches in titanium and 177 in white gold.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
  • Reference DG 042
  • Caliber Exclusive to de GRISOGONO
  • Movement thickness 11.45 mm
  • Movement dimensions rectangular: 38.10 x 34.70 mm
  • Number of components 651 for the movement, 70 for the case
  • Jeweling 77 (movement and display)
  • Frequency 28,800 v.p.h. (4 Hz)
  • Power reserve about 35 hours
  • Indications Hours, minutes and second timezone
  • Case titanium; 5N red gold; titanium and gold; titanium and platinum, titanium and rubber
  • Water resistance 30 meters (~ 100 feet) = 30 atm.
  • Hands “dauphine” style in 18K red gold
  • Strap black natural rubber
  • Clasp Double deployment construction in titanium and 5N red gold.

See Also;
All New 2008 Watch Posts-->Link


All Mechanical Digital - The MECCANICO dG by de GRISOGONOvia Horomundi


| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |


Subscribe to The Watchismo Times
Enter your email

Delivered by FeedBurner

MB&F introduces Limited Edition Titanium Horological Machine No.1 - The HM1 Ti

MB&F introduces Limited Edition Titanium Horological Machine No.1 - The HM1 TiI had a blast trying on a MB&F HM1 (and HM2!) late last year and decided to buy one if Max would give me an installment plan of $100 a month for 1500 months. Sadly, I am still sans Horological Machine.

But now I have my heart set on the Ti, a just-announced limited edition of ten HM1 in Titanium casing. Maybe a layaway plan this time Max?

From Max just a few hours ago...
"We will be unveiling on September 7th HM1-Ti, a very special 10 piece limited edition of “Horological Machine No1” . Out of the 100 HM1 movements to be crafted between 2007 and 2009, only 10 will conjugate this amazing Titanium case (a real feat to achieve) with a new sapphire dial partially unveiling the Tourbillon system and the amazing hour/minute floating synchronizing wheel."

MB&F introduces Limited Edition Titanium Horological Machine No.1 - The HM1 TiHM1-Ti is an extremely sophisticated timepiece on many levels: visually, technically and emotionally. As much, if not more, art and sculpture as micro-engineering.

HM1-Ti is an avant-garde three-dimensional timekeeping machine broken free from constraints imposed by traditional horology.

The relatively light weight belies the architectural volume of HM1-Ti's grade 5 titanium case; a case whose complex modular construction enables every part to be independently
refurbished.

The radical three-dimensionality of the case construction may turn heads; however, the
totally original and highly intricate movement inside, with its 376 parts and 81 functional jewels, ensures that HM1-Ti will turn minds as well.

MB&F introduces Limited Edition Titanium Horological Machine No.1 - The HM1 TiThe challenge of applying a variety of multi-faceted fine finishes to the difficult-to-work titanium has been rewarded by the vibrant juxtaposition of light reflecting off the contrasting highly polished and matte-satin surfaces.

An extra-wide custom tapered strap, complemented by a bespoke white gold and titanium folding buckle, completes the timepiece and reinforces the highly technical nature of the case.

HM1-Ti is a limited edition of 10 pieces


Movement:
Raised central one-minute tourbillon, separate hours and minutes, seven-day power reserve.
Balance oscillating at 28,800 bph.
Automatic winding.
Four mainspring barrels in parallel.
Number of jewels: 81 (all functional).
Number of parts: 376 (including jewels).

Functions:
Left dial: Hours
Right Dial: Minutes and Seven-Day Power Reserve

Case:
Titanium Grade 5 - Limited Edition of 10.
Dimensions: length 41mm, width 64mm, height 14mm.
Number of parts: 48.

Sapphire crystals:
Dial side with anti-reflective treatment on both faces.
Display back with anti-reflective treatment on single face.

Dial:
Open dial with etched sapphire Hour and Minute bridges.
Power reserve displayed by rotating disk.

Strap & Buckle:
Extra wide black hand-stitched alligator strap with white gold/titanium folding buckle.

Presentation box:
Bespoke ETRO pin-stripe flannel and leather designer carry bag hosting the presentation
box.

See Also;
All Horological Machine Posts-->Link



| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |


Subscribe to The Watchismo Times
Enter your email

Delivered by FeedBurner

Semi-Precious Leak - Richard Mille's RM018 "Hommage to Boucheron"

Semi-Precious Leak - Richard Mille's RM018 Soon to be announced Richard Mille 018 "Hommage a Boucheron" with purported precious stones for the mechanism.

Reminders of Mille's original Mauboussin concepts developed in the Nineties with Renaud et Papi.


Semi-Precious Leak - Richard Mille's RM018
Semi-Precious Leak - Richard Mille's RM018
See Also;
All Richard Mille Posts-->Link


| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |


Subscribe to The Watchismo Times
Enter your email

Delivered by FeedBurner

"A Rare Mixture of Art, Science & Mechanics" - Greubel Forsey Film

A short film about the dynamic duo watchmaker/inventor team of Greubel Forsey.

"The whole idea was not to accept that everything has already been invented in watchmaking. We do have our page in the history of watchmaking to write."
-Robert Greubel



Video-->Link

Or download the higher quality version here-->Greubel Forsey film (70MB)

When you see the video, you'll have a better understanding why about two watches a month are produced...

Greubel Forsey Invention Piece No. 1

Greubel Forsey Website-->Link

See Also;
Greubel Forsey Invention Piece No. 1
Greubel Forsey Multi-Axis Tourbillon Videos
Richard Mille Planetarium Tellurium (developed with GF)

| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |


Subscribe to The Watchismo Times
Enter your email

Delivered by FeedBurner

SIHH Premiere - Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon

Debuting in April 2008 at SIHH in Geneva, Jaeger LeCoultre will be introducing another mindblowing Gyrotourbillon movement but this time as part of the Reverso collection. The Gyrotourbillon features a spherical tourbillon with two carriages spinning on two axes freeing the regulating organ from effects of gravity in all positions. Reverso watches can be flipped over for alternative displays. The 2006 Reverso a Triptyque, one of the most complicated watches ever made and also the world's first three faced watch.

The Gyrotourbillon 1 (above), first introduced in 2006 features a double cage tourbillon with equation of time and perpetual calendar and the Master Minute Repeater that produces tones at 55 decibels or double the volume of the world’s next loudest minute repeater.

To really appreciate the Gyrotourbillon, you must see it in action as shown on the video below;

Video-->Link

History of the Reverso - In 1931 British Polo Players in India requested a watch that could be worn during the hard charging clashes on the field. Responding to this Jacques-David LeCoultre and the Societe Jaeger turned to the most capable design engineer of the time, Rene-Alfred Chauvot. Chauvot’s solution was to make a watch that was a case inside a case. The inner case contained the movement and could be pivoted within the outer case (or carriage) that comprised essentially of a skeleton and watch lugs. Once the case was pivoted or reversed, the crystal was completely protected from blows. In 1991, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s CEO Gunther Blumlein unveiled the Reverso remade into a modern high complication with the Reverso 60eme. This was followed by a Reverso tourbillon in 1993 and a Reverso minute repeater in 1993. This year to celebrate the 75th anniversary of the Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre has exploited the unique architecture of the Reverso case to create the world’s first three faced watch. Fittingly this marvel dubbed the Reverso a Tryptique offers up a golden harvest of haute de gamme complication. (via Horomundi/Revolution)

Reverso Tourbillon via Timezone

See Also;
All Jaeger LeCoultre Posts
All Tourbillon Posts

| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |


Subscribe to The Watchismo Times
Enter your email

Delivered by FeedBurner

Basel Previews - $500,000 Zenith El Primero Zero-G Multi-Dimensional Tourbillon

Basel Previews - $500,000 Zenith El Primero Zero-G Multi-Dimensional Tourbillon
New top-of-the line Zenith debuting at Baselworld 2008 in April. This limited edition all-black PVD coated El Primero Zenith Zero-G Multi-Dimensional Tourbillon will start around 350,000 Euros ($500,000+).

And you may ask yourself, who would wear a watch like that? Well, below is Thierry Nataf, not only the president and CEO of Zenith, but also a member of the Zero-G Multi-Dimensional club for men.

Basel Previews - $500,000 Zenith El Primero Zero-G Multi-Dimensional TourbillonThe giant feathered and beaked watch on his other hand is Toodles the Hawk. He doesn't go anywhere without Toodles. Can somebody have a talk with Thierry?

Photos via Timezone
Zenith website-->Link

See Also;
All Zenith Posts-->Link
All Tourbillon Posts-->Link
Over $100,000 Watches-->Link and Link


| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |


Subscribe to The Watchismo Times
Enter your email

Delivered by FeedBurner

Urwerk 202 Hammerhead Automatic at 2008 SIHHPapillon by Andreas StrehlerPhenomenal Photos of the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso TourbillonCAD SCHMAD - Finally, A Real Photo of the Concord C1 Vertical Tourbillon GravityAll Mechanical Digital - The MECCANICO dG by de GRISOGONOMB&F introduces Limited Edition Titanium Horological Machine No.1 - The HM1 TiSemi-Precious Leak - Richard Mille's RM018 "Hommage to Boucheron""A Rare Mixture of Art, Science & Mechanics" - Greubel Forsey FilmSIHH Premiere - Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso GyrotourbillonBasel Previews - $500,000 Zenith El Primero Zero-G Multi-Dimensional Tourbillon

Report "Watchismo Times"

Are you sure you want to report this post for ?

Cancel
×