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Watchismo Times

THE WATCHISMO TIMES WATCH BLOG A reliquary of obscure timepieces from bygone eras as well as the cutting-edge watch designs of today.

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LIP Watch Debut at Barneys New York

LIP Watch Debut at Barneys New YorkLIP watches are having their US retail debut this week at one of the most exclusive & influential stores in the world, the grand opening of Barneys New York in Las Vegas. Part of the Palazzo Hotel & Casino's Shoppes at The Palazzo, the flagship Barneys is located on the Grand Canal between the Venetian Hotel and the Palazzo. LIP Mach 2000 & Revival Seventies collections will be introduced on the main floor before they make their way across the country to other Barneys locations in New York City, Beverly Hills, San Francisco, Dallas, Chicago, Seattle, and Boston in February-March. LIP are also available online here-->Link

(Pictured above - LIP "Mythic" Watch by Prisca Briquet)

The French brand LIP has been around 150 years but were unavailable in the United States until now. The company is reintroducing some of their most important models from a modern collection that remains as visionary today as when first unveiled 35 years ago. Most are faithful recreations while others have been updated with new designer visions. Best of all, the quality of the watchmaking is top notch and priced incredibly well ranging from $180-$520.

The Mach 2000 and Revival Seventies collections were the brainchild of a revolutionary collective of French industrial designers, architects, interior decorators, and graphic designers. In the 1960s and 1970s, LIP enlisted a handful of these creatives to bring their truly original ideas of timekeeping to life in a series of watches. Among them was the prolific Roger Tallon who designed everything from high-speed French TGV trains to the 1964 Helicoid Staircase (part of the MoMa Design Collection). Tallon’s LIP designs include the iconic Mach 2000 series.

See more about LIP here-->Link

The LIP Product Pages-->Link

LIP Watch Debut at Barneys New York
LIP Watch Debut at Barneys New YorkBarneys Las Vegas (along the indoor canals of the Venetian Hotel & Casino)
What do you want? It's Vegas!

LIP Watch Debut at Barneys New YorkStaircase to the main floor LIP department in Vegas

LIP Watch Debut at Barneys New YorkBig Fat LIPs!

LIP Watch Debut at Barneys New YorkLIP Mach 2000 Chronograph->Link
Roger Tallon Design - 1974

LIP Watch Debut at Barneys New YorkLIP Mach 2000 Watch "Mafia" ->Link
Roger Tallon Design - 1974

LIP Watch Debut at Barneys New YorkLIP Revival Seventies "Big TV"
Roger Tallon Design->Link

LIP Watch Debut at Barneys New YorkLIP Revival "TV" ->Link
Roger Tallon Design - 1975

LIP Watch Debut at Barneys New YorkLIP Revival Seventies "Fridge"
Roger Tallon Design - 1975 ->Link

LIP Watch Debut at Barneys New YorkLIP Revival Seventies "Diode" LED Digital Watch
Roger Tallon Design - 1975 ->Link
(and soon to be featured in GQ Magazine!)


LIP Watch Debut at Barneys New YorkLIP Revival Seventies "Baschmakoff" Jump Hour
Prince Francois de Baschmakoff Design - 1970 ->Link

See more about LIP here-->Link

The LIP Product Pages-->Link

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Seiko Moving Design Collection - The Discus

Seiko Moving Design Collection - The DiscusMore seventies inspired mechanical digital watches keep rotating into modern designs including this "Discus" - from the Seiko Moving Design Collection. Featuring a jumping hour display of spinning discs through a porthole viewer and all under a smoky transparent crystal. Powered by a mechanical automatic movement (Automatic 6R15B 23 Jewels with 6 beats per hour (21,600vph). Selling close to $900 outside the US.

Find out more at the Seiko Moving Design website here-->LINK

A review of the watch by Kong at Watchprosite.

See also;
Seiko Concept Lab - Power Design Project
All Seiko Related Posts
LIP Revival Seventies Mythic Spinning Discs
All Jump Hour Posts




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The Firm Hands of Jason Linde's Wenge Clocks

The Firm Hands of Jason Linde's Wenge ClocksArchitect Jason Linde has created a series of clocks with unique display with a single stationary hand and a rotating dial for hours. Some feature double dials for both hours and minutes. On wood veneered blocks and laser engraved dials, they range from $110 - $130.

The Firm Hands of Jason Linde's Wenge ClocksDouble Dial

The Firm Hands of Jason Linde's Wenge ClocksDouble Dial

Available here-->Link

See also;
All Clock Posts

via Yanko Design


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Watchismo's Timewarp - Max Büsser's 19th Century Steel & Gunmetal Pocket Watch Collection

Watchismo's Timewarp - Max Büsser's 19th Century Steel & Gunmetal Pocket Watch CollectionAfter many opportunities to address my proclivities in my Timewarp column in QP Magazine, I wanted to turn the loupe on people who never fail to impress me, to explore what makes them tick. First on my list was modern pioneer, Maximilian Büsser and his rare & unusual 19th century unsigned laminated iron, gunmetal and steel pocket watches.

Click here to read article-->LINK

Ian Skellern's amazing photos of the collection;

Watchismo's Timewarp - Max Büsser's 19th Century Steel & Gunmetal Pocket Watch CollectionGreen enamel Jumping Hour

Watchismo's Timewarp - Max Büsser's 19th Century Steel & Gunmetal Pocket Watch CollectionBlackened steel with full triple calendar on back

Watchismo's Timewarp - Max Büsser's 19th Century Steel & Gunmetal Pocket Watch CollectionBlackened seven day power reserve

Watchismo's Timewarp - Max Büsser's 19th Century Steel & Gunmetal Pocket Watch CollectionSt. Imiers 1100 year anniversary one-handed pocket watch

Watchismo's Timewarp - Max Büsser's 19th Century Steel & Gunmetal Pocket Watch CollectionArticle available in issue 27 of QP Magazine

And of course, Max has just unveiled his remarkable HM2 (Horological Machine No.2) here-->LINK

An interview with Max at PuristsPro-->link

Related posts;
All Horological Machine Stories
Previous Timewarps



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Faux-Electronic Mechanical Digital Watches

Faux-Electronic Mechanical Digital WatchesYou see many types of jump hour watches here at my blog, but these two actually try their best hiding their Swiss mechanics by imitating the popular & new LED and LCD technology of the early seventies. This Fashiontime Instalite Digital has two mechanical discs with printed LCD style bar digits (dark gray on light gray) and a display light activated by the button on the upper right.

Faux-Electronic Mechanical Digital WatchesFaux-Electronic Mechanical Digital WatchesThis Tegrov Digital took it a step further by creating a fake LED display with red crystal tinting the mechanical jump hour discs. Also with a lamp function to give the full faux emitting diode effect.
Faux-Electronic Mechanical Digital WatchesClose-up of faux-LED display

Related Posts;
Amida Digitrend LRD (another faux digital)
Dynamic Scattering LCD (earliest of the style)
Sicura Instalite
All Jump Hour Stories



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LAUNCH OF WATCHISMO 2.0 !!!

LAUNCH OF WATCHISMO 2.0 !!!
I'm proud to announce the launch of the new Watchismo.com! Hundreds of really unusual vintage timepieces have been added and for the first time, a very select group of modern watches from LIP. A French brand I've collected for years and only now had the opportunity to own all the revolutionary Mach 2000 models by Roger Tallon, Jump Hours of Prince Francois De Baschmakoff, and the distinct ladies watches by Isabelle Hebey. And some interesting new directions as well. More about that soon!
LAUNCH OF WATCHISMO 2.0 !!!A large variety of LIP including chronographs, jump hours, and LED. Most are original designs from the early seventies. See my article about LIP in QP Magazine here.

LAUNCH OF WATCHISMO 2.0 !!!And of course, my first love, obscure and unusual vintage mechanical and early digital watches from the sixties and seventies. Everything from the Space Age including a mystery dial Mondia Moonstone, a Spaceman Audacieuse, and an Omega Speedmaster 125.

The site is super simple and easy to stroll through, even just for eye candy, it's all part of a hobby gone horribly horribly wrong...Enjoy!

Check em out--->LINK



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Just when you thought you've seen everything...

Just when you thought you've seen everything...I love being pleasantly surprised and appalled at the same time. It's a particular feeling that can't be summed up with one word, at least not in English. But the need for such a word has never been more appropriate than when laying my eyes on a watch owned by fellow collector Ruud in The Netherlands. He shared this recent purchase of a bizarre 1965 Jump Hour by Jean Chuard. I've found no information about this French brand but photos (or actions, whatever) speak louder than words...

Just when you thought you've seen everything...The band is a solid cuff of transparent red plastic, the dial has a plastic guilloche face, the time is displayed in three windows (Heure, Minute, Date) of mechanical digital rotating dials.

Just when you thought you've seen everything...The movement "capsule"


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Long Lost Urwerk Relative? A 1970 Jump Hour with very familiar features

Long Lost Urwerk Relative?  A 1970 Jump Hour with very familiar featuresThe contemporary brand Urwerk creates some of the most phenomenally complex and understandably expensive watches today but when finding this beat-up rare vintage jump hour from the seventies, it only made me think of their wandering hour designs, especially their Hammerhead, and cost me $50,000 less! It'll satisfy me for about a week.

Someday Mr. Baumgartner, someday...

Long Lost Urwerk Relative?  A 1970 Jump Hour with very familiar features
Long Lost Urwerk Relative?  A 1970 Jump Hour with very familiar featuresNot wandering, retrograde or even protracting hands, just a simple semi-sideviewing jump hour digital display with a low grade manual winding movement.

Long Lost Urwerk Relative?  A 1970 Jump Hour with very familiar featuresYou gotta admit, DNA tests might prove some relation. Especially the chin and lips.

Long Lost Urwerk Relative?  A 1970 Jump Hour with very familiar features
Long Lost Urwerk Relative?  A 1970 Jump Hour with very familiar features
Long Lost Urwerk Relative?  A 1970 Jump Hour with very familiar featuresOf course, I'd rather have any one of these Urwerks

Long Lost Urwerk Relative?  A 1970 Jump Hour with very familiar features

Related Posts;
All Urwerk Stories
All Jump Hour Stories

Urwerk website-->Link



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Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2

Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2An exciting evening out on the town for the reclusive Watchismo Times! I had the honor of meeting Maximilian Büsser and his new child, the Horological Machine No.2! And for some strange reason, Max trusted me enough to hold his bolted baby even though I almost dropped it into the Bolognese sauce...

Personally, I think he just pulled it out of an antique alien submarine control panel and put a strap on it.

Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2After decades learning and conforming to the rules of corporate watchmaking, Maximilian Büsser broke the chains and started a rebellion - a rebellion called MB&F.

MB&F is an artistic and micro-engineering concept laboratory in which changing collectives of independent horological professionals are assembled each year to design and craft radical Horological Machines.

The ramifications of these audacious projects are profound. By respecting tradition without being shackled by it, MB&F acts as a catalyst in fusing traditional high-quality watchmaking with cutting-edge technology and avant-garde three-dimensional kinetic sculpture.

MB&F's first timepiece, Horological Machine No.1, wrote the first chapter in the story of the revolution, Horological Machine No.2 continues the adventure.

Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2Each of HM2's twin portholes allows the viewer a different perspective of time. On the right, the Jumping Hours and Concentric Retrograde Minutes reveals time up close and 'now', while the Retrograde Date and Bi-Hemisphere Moon Phase on the left dial allows the viewer to take a step back from immediacy and relax.

Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2Horological Machine No.2 (HM2) is a holistically conceived and engineered three-dimensional timekeeping machine for the wrist. The functions and indications were specifically conceived to tailor to the strengths of HM2's chief watchmaker, Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. The bespoke architecture of the highly technical movement was developed to both fit and complement the radical form of the modular case. HM2 is the world's first mechanical movement offering: Instantaneous Jump Hour, Concentric Retrograde Minutes, Retrograde Date, Bi-Hemisphere Moon Phase and Automatic Winding.

With over 450 components making up its case and movement HM2 is an incredible sophisticated machine; however, its complexity has been engineered for simple and trouble free functionality.

The movement features an extremely energy efficient Jump Hour/Retrograde mechanism developed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. Wiederrecht's exclusive (and patented) asymmetrical-tooth gear wheels ensure high precision and play-free functionality.

The realisation of HM2’s complex case shape - with its architectural volume, bold flying buttresses, bolted portholes and sliding crown guard - was only made possible by using an innovative modular approach: a method inspired by the Meccano sets (similar to Erector sets) of Maximilian Büsser's childhood.

Horological Machine No.2 is full of dynamic tension between apparently incongruous elements. Tension between cutting-edge technology and sculptural art, matte textures and mirror-polishes, high-tech alloys and precious metals and tension between traditional watchmaking and 21st century micro-engineering. This vibrant tension is amplified by the interplay of light and colour off the varied finishes, textures and shapes, and gives the machine its pulsing vitality.

Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2
Inspiration and Realization: MB&F is first and foremost about people and the key person behind Horological Machine No.2 is Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. It was 9 years ago, in Maximilian Büsser's former position as Managing Director of Harry Winston Timepieces, that Büsser first began working with Wiederrecht and found him to be imaginative, inventive and sharing in the same human values. Wiederrecht and his company Agenhor are world leaders in Retrograde and Jumping Hour mechanisms and Büsser conceived HM2's functions specifically to play to these strengths.

The case, with its flying buttresses, bolted portholes and sliding crown guard, was so complex - over 100 components go into its construction alone - that it could only be developed with an innovative modular method inspired by the Meccano sets of Maximilian Büsser's childhood. And in line with best engineering principles, this modularity also simplifies future refurbishment of the case should it ever be necessary.

Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2Architecture: The principal feature of Horological Machine No.2 is the holistic symbiosis between the three dimensional architecture of both the case and the movement. The sheer complexity of the case design necessitated a modular approach to construction. More than 100 components go into the assembly of the case alone - that is more parts than make up many complete movements! While extremely complex to fabricate, this bolted-not-welded engineering allows maximum flexibility in design and enables a rich variety of materials and finishes to be used.

Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2Technical Innovations: The principle technical challenge in developing the movement was ensuring that the jumping hour functioned both instantaneously and simultaneously when the retrograde minute flies back from 60 to 0. And not only instantaneously, but also without using excessive energy. The usual method of activating Jumping Hour indications is to store energy in the minutes before the change to power the jump; however, while this energy is being accumulated it takes power from the balance causing it to loose amplitude - an effect detrimental to time-keeping precision. Wiederrecht's solution was as brilliant as it was simple: he designed a ingenious mechanism so that when the minutes fly back, a snail on the minute mechanism hits the hour star causing the hour to jump. The hour jumps instantaneously with the minutes because it is triggered by the minutes and, as the jump is powered by the energy of the minutes flying back, it has virtually no effect on the amplitude of the balance.

Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2The complication has another very special feature. Specific gears in HM2's movement are manufactured to extremely high precision using Mimotec's UV-LIGA technology. These gears mesh together with a virtually a no-tolerance/no-play engagement. Normally, gears interacting this tightly would bind; however, Wiederrecht's patented asymmetrical-split-tooth gear design ensures this does not occur. The high precision of this gearing enables very accurate time-setting and offers high reliability.

To maximise the efficiency of MB&F's already iconic double Hakken automatic rotor, one of the 22kt gold blades was machined down to a razor sharp edge of just 0.2mm - a dimension which pushed the very limits of micro-machining.

The innovative sliding crown guard clearly indicates its position (in or out) and facilitates access to time-setting and quick date correcting.

And now for some candid shots of the new brood. (photographed by and courtesy of Felipe Jordão, the independent horology moderator at Timezone.com - all his photos can be seen here-->Link

Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2The MB&F Clan (HM1 & HM2)

Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2
Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2
Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2
Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2What watch do I wear to such an event?
Well, my cuffbusting vintage Desotos

Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2Max, Watchismo, and the HM2

Priced at $59,000 (US) and in larger editions than the $150,000 HM1.

MB&F website-->LINK

All MB&F related posts-->LINK

Want more? Jack Forster's HM2 article for Horomundi-->LINK



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Off With Your Hands! The First Digital Clocks

Off With Your Hands!  The First Digital ClocksA collection of rare historical timepieces is now on show at the premises of A. Lange & Söhne. Entitled “From Dresden to Glashütte – the roots of precision watchmaking in Saxony”, the exhibition features selected clocks and pocket watches from the “Mathematisch-Physikalischen Salon” collection.

These ingenious timepieces by prominent names like Seyffert, Schumann and Gutkaes, chronicle the history and evolution of the watchmaking industry in Glashütte. The highlight of the exhibition is undoubtedly a model of the “Five-Minute Clock” above by Hofuhrmacher Ludwig Teubner, one of the earliest versions of a digital display. The hours are Roman numerals and the minutes are five minute increment digits.


via Goldarths Review

Off With Your Hands!  The First Digital Clocks
According to A. Lange & Söhne, this was the original digital clock. Built for Dresden's Semper Opera in 1841 by Friedrich Gutkaes and Adolph Lange, and is conveniently legible from all seats in the house.

Off With Your Hands!  The First Digital Clocks
A. Lange & Söhne History-->Link


Be sure to enter The Watchismo Times 1st anniversary vintage chronograph giveway!-->LINK

Find other clocks here
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LIP Watch Debut at Barneys New YorkSeiko Moving Design Collection - The DiscusThe Firm Hands of Jason Linde's Wenge ClocksWatchismo's Timewarp - Max Büsser's 19th Century Steel & Gunmetal Pocket Watch CollectionFaux-Electronic Mechanical Digital WatchesLAUNCH OF WATCHISMO 2.0 !!!Just when you thought you've seen everything...Long Lost Urwerk Relative?  A 1970 Jump Hour with very familiar featuresHaute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2Off With Your Hands!  The First Digital Clocks

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