close

Watchismo Times | category: alternative display | (page 4 of 7)

home

Watchismo Times

THE WATCHISMO TIMES WATCH BLOG A reliquary of obscure timepieces from bygone eras as well as the cutting-edge watch designs of today.

watchismo.blogspot.com

Pierre Kunz Retrograde Vertigo & Spirit Diver Tube Depth Gauge Watches

Pierre Kunz Retrograde Vertigo & Spirit Diver Tube Depth Gauge WatchesTwo new models from Pierre Kunz. The "Vertigo" with linear retrograde hour indicator on left, rising and falling with each 12 hour cycle and compartmentalized minutes and seconds in the displays on the right.

Pierre Kunz Retrograde Vertigo & Spirit Diver Tube Depth Gauge Watches
Pierre Kunz Retrograde Vertigo & Spirit Diver Tube Depth Gauge WatchesVertigo movement

Pierre Kunz Retrograde Vertigo & Spirit Diver Tube Depth Gauge WatchesSecondly, the Pierre Kunz "Spirit Diver" with a depth gauge (up to 80 meters) inside a sapphire tube fixed to the left side of the case and rotating disc for seconds.

Pierre Kunz Retrograde Vertigo & Spirit Diver Tube Depth Gauge Watches
via Selectism

Related Stories on The Watchismo Times;

All Diver Watch Posts
All Watches with Retrograde Functions

| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |

Real Life Photos of the Concord C1 Quantum Gravity Tourbillon



Finally, no more slick CAD teasers, the real deal, Concord's C1 Quantum Gravity live in Basel.

Thanks to Watchluxus


Video Link of the new tourbillon bi-axial from BNB Concept for the Concord C1 Quantum Gravity timepiece is placed and alive.




Christophe Claret Introduces his DualTow Display Belt Single Pusher Planetary Chronograph with Striking Mechanism

Christophe Claret Introduces his DualTow Display Belt Single Pusher Planetary Chronograph with Striking MechanismChristophe Claret's Dual Tow watch introduced today at Baselworld
Two conveyor belts rotate displaying the time. (there seems to be a theme this year!)

Christophe Claret Introduces his DualTow Display Belt Single Pusher Planetary Chronograph with Striking Mechanism

From the press release (via Horomundi):

2009 is a jubilee year in the history of Christophe Claret SA, a milestone that its owner wished to symbolize by releasing an exclusive timepiece produced under the company brand name and distributed by the finest retailers worldwide.

The DualTow is a faithful reflection of the watchmaking philosophy inherent to Christophe Claret. Housing several inventions including one patented innovation, this single-pusher planetary-gear chronograph with striking mechanism and tourbillon expresses a combination of technical excellence and sophisticated aesthetics.

It also embodies the merging of the wide variety of skills united within the company, since almost all operations involved in making it – from movement development to the machining of the sapphire dial-bridge – have been performed in-house.

Representing a horological embodiment of power and energy, the DualTow is an ultra-refined machine for measuring time. With its original “belt” display of the hours and minutes, the model features an ultra-technical and classically elegant appearance.

Technically speaking, the mechanical hand-wound CC20A movement boasts an impressive number of innovations and stylistic refinement.

One particularly striking example is a gong that sounds each time the chronograph pusher is activated, in a playful allusion to the expertise of the Manufacture in the field of striking watches.

Christophe Claret Introduces his DualTow Display Belt Single Pusher Planetary Chronograph with Striking Mechanism



Christophe Claret Introduces his DualTow Display Belt Single Pusher Planetary Chronograph with Striking Mechanism


DUALTOW Specs:

SINGLE-PUSHER PLANETARY-GEAR CHRONOGRAPH WITH STRIKING MECHANISM MOVEMENT:

Number of parts: 582

Number of jewels: 73

Power Reserve: Over 50 hours

Barrels: Twin barrels placed in parallel

Tourbillon: - Swiss lever escapement
- Balance oscillation frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
- Tourbillon rotation frequency : 1 revolution/minute

Functions: - Hour and minute display on belts
- Single-pusher planetary-gear chronograph
- Mechanical striking mechanism sounding each change of function (start, stop and reset)
- 12-hour, 60-minute and 60-second chronograph counters
- Operating mode indicator
- Mechanical hand-wound movement
- Power-Reserve display

EXTERIOR:

Case: - Watch glasses specially designed and manufactured to ensure an ergonomic fit
- Rectangular, curving; fitted with exclusive mobile lugs enabling a perfect fit on the wrist
- Dimensions : 42.75 x 48.20 mm (not counting the lugs)
- Water Resistant: 3 ATM or 30 meters

Display belts: In rubber with transferred hour and minute numerals

Flange: Flange with chronograph seconds markers cut from five different stones

Dynamometric crown and pusher: Rubber-molded

Dial: Sapphire crystal serving as a bridge for the chronograph counters and featuring transferred chronograph hour and minute counters, chronograph operating mode, Christophe Claret brand name and ‘Swiss Made’ indication

Buckle: Triple-blade folding clasp with decorative covers and an innovative system enabling comfort-enhancing 10 mm wrist extension

Series: Limited edition of 68 timepieces; each unique


Christophe Claret website

Related Posts;
All Christophe Claret Stories
Watches with Alternative Displays
Opus 9 Diamond Chain Display
Baselworld Releases
Watches over $100,000


| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |



THE OPUS 9 REVEALED TODAY AT BASELWORLD! Jean-Marc Wiederecht & Eric Giroud for Harry Winston Rare Timepieces

THE OPUS 9 REVEALED TODAY AT BASELWORLD! Jean-Marc Wiederecht & Eric Giroud for Harry Winston Rare Timepieces

2009 Harry Winston Opus 9



In Opus 9, diamonds are not merely a decorative element, but the functional element of time telling. Teamed up for the 9th Opi is master watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederecht and haute designer Eric Giroud.

Replacing the traditional watch hands and cyclical dial, time is displayed by two parallel diamond chains, for hours and minutes.

Sleek and scintillating, each chain is adorned with 33 baguette-cut diamonds, Harry Winston’s signature shape.

Vivid mandarin garnets are strategically positioned to indicate the hours and minutes.

Meticulously calibrated, each stone is perfectly set into the links, to ensure movement, while maintaining their brilliance. The chains are designed to maximize mobility while minimizing friction.

Recalling Harry Winston’s iconic, invisible settings, the gemstones appear as floating lines of light, seamless unfolding across the dial.

Limited edition of 100 pieces

Harry Winston presentation today at Baselworld
Photography and report by Ian Skellern for Horomundi


THE OPUS 9 REVEALED TODAY AT BASELWORLD! Jean-Marc Wiederecht & Eric Giroud for Harry Winston Rare TimepiecesHistory of the Opus Series 1-8

THE OPUS 9 REVEALED TODAY AT BASELWORLD! Jean-Marc Wiederecht & Eric Giroud for Harry Winston Rare TimepiecesFirst presentation of the dial

THE OPUS 9 REVEALED TODAY AT BASELWORLD! Jean-Marc Wiederecht & Eric Giroud for Harry Winston Rare TimepiecesPresentation of the sketches and renderings

THE OPUS 9 REVEALED TODAY AT BASELWORLD! Jean-Marc Wiederecht & Eric Giroud for Harry Winston Rare TimepiecesThe exposed diamond time chain

THE OPUS 9 REVEALED TODAY AT BASELWORLD! Jean-Marc Wiederecht & Eric Giroud for Harry Winston Rare TimepiecesOpus 9 on the wrist

THE OPUS 9 REVEALED TODAY AT BASELWORLD! Jean-Marc Wiederecht & Eric Giroud for Harry Winston Rare TimepiecesFirst public viewing for the watch

THE OPUS 9 REVEALED TODAY AT BASELWORLD! Jean-Marc Wiederecht & Eric Giroud for Harry Winston Rare Timepieces
THE OPUS 9 REVEALED TODAY AT BASELWORLD! Jean-Marc Wiederecht & Eric Giroud for Harry Winston Rare TimepiecesThe Opus 9 Box

Specifications:
  • Movement: Automatic self-winding using a chain system.
  • Functions: Linear display of hours and minutes.
  • Power Reserve: 72 Hours
  • Case: White Gold
  • Dimensions: 56mm x 48mm x 20mm
  • Dial: Baguette diamond chain indicating the hours on left, the minutes on the right. The indicator is a Garnet.
  • Water Resistance: 30 meters (3ATM)
  • Carat Weight: 66 baguette diamonds, total carats: 2.148 cts. 6 Garnet, total carats: 0.222 cts.
Related Stories:

OPUS 8
OPUS 7
OPUS 6
OPUS 5


Harry Winston Website

| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |


New Model - Maîtres du Temps Chapter One Black Dial White Gold Moonphase/Day Roller Tourbillon Watch




Video-->Link

LA CHAUX-DE-FONDS, Switzerland – Building on the launch of the Chapter One in 2008, Maîtres du Temps now presents a limited edition of 11 watches with jet-black dial, moonphase and day of week rollers set in a white gold case.



It explains the development of a $400,000 watch by a team of three master watchmakers: Peter Speake-Marin, Roger Dubuis and Christophe Claret.


Press Release;

Timeless elegance is evoked by the juxtaposition of elegant white gold hands against the black dial and of the bright red of the counterpoised chronograph second hand against the engine-turned sun-ray guilloche of the sub-dials. The ethereal beauty of the moon and stars against a dark night sky belies the high-tech nature of its anodized aluminum roller—a roller visually and technically balanced by the day of the week roller at the opposite end of the long, sweeping compound curves of the stunningly finished case.

The highly polished tourbillon literally explodes from the dark dial in a highly reflective burst of light, some of which streams in through the opening to the day roller and sweeps up from under the tourbillon, adding to the three-dimensionality of the spectacle. Amid the indication-rich nature of the dial, the tourbillon cage and bridge stand out as if under a bright spotlight on a semi-darkened stage.

Moonphase Roller

“To my eye, where the silver-dialed Chapter One leans in the direction of a more classic look, this black-dialed version feels sportier, faster. And I particularly like the way that the black of the dial continues into the dark night sky of the moon roller above and the black day roller below,” says Mr. Steven Holtzman, founder of Maîtres du Temps.


Day of Week Roller

Developed by a collaboration of three of the world’s greatest watchmakers, Mr. Christophe Claret, Mr. Roger Dubuis, and Mr. Peter Speake-Marin, Chapter One features a world-first combination of complications: tourbillon, mono-pusher chronograph, retrograde date, retrograde GMT, and two rolling bars at 6 o’clock and 12 o’clock, indicating the day of the week and phase of the moon, respectively. The dial reveals central coaxial hours, minutes, and chronograph 60-second

counter; tourbillon and day of the week roller at 6 o’clock; retrograde GMT at 9 o’clock; 60-minute chronograph counter and precision moon phase roller at 12 o’clock; and retrograde date at 3 o’clock.

Chapter One is imbued with the intoxicating fusion of Mr. Claret’s undisputed mastery of high-end complications, Mr.Dubuis’ rich lifetime of experience in haute horlogerie, and Mr.Speake-Marin’s unparalleled ability to bridge the very best of both traditional and modern watchmaking.

The ease of both reading and adjusting Chapter One’s many indications disguises the fact that this is an extremely complex movement that has been handcrafted and meticulously assembled from 558 components. Efficiently transmitting power to the two rollers and ensuring that they work simultaneously with the time, date, GMT, and chronograph was just one of the immense technical challenges met and conquered.

About Maîtres du Temps

Maîtres du Temps is a pantheon where teams of independent master watchmakers at the very pinnacle of haute horlogerie collaborate to develop innovative, interesting, and very exclusive timepieces. Founded by Mr. Steven Holtzman and based in Switzerland, Maîtres du Temps crafts limited-series mechanical masterpieces, each the synthesis of the experience, art, and techniques of the Masters who create it. For more information, please visit www.maitresdutemps.com.

Your browser may not support display of this image.

Maîtres du Temps Website

Related Posts;
Independent Watch Brands
Alternative Displays
MB&F HM3
Hysek Colosso

Urwerk
Patek Philippe Cobra Sideview Prototype of 1958
1974 Jaz Derby Swissonic Cylindrical Jump Hour
Jean Dunand Shabaka
Jacob & Co. Quenttin
The Cabestan



| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |


New Brand - Ladoire Geneve Helvet Mechanic RGT (Roller Guardian Time) Watch

New Brand - Ladoire Geneve Helvet Mechanic RGT (Roller Guardian Time) WatchFollowing in the footsteps of independent watch brands like Hautlence, 36 year old watch designer Lionel Ladoire has introduced his first collection featuring the Timepiece Roller Guardian Time. A limited edition series of 40 watches are planned for their first year of production.

Ladoire's first timekeeper offers an unusual view. Time is displayed by revolving indicators that turn on ball bearings. There is one single hand displaying a second time zone. A deep recess in the middle of the hour-indicator shows some of the entrails of the custom- made movement by ASXP-Engineering, an enterprise that also works for Hautlence and MCT. The large pusher on the right adjusts the second time-zone.


New Brand - Ladoire Geneve Helvet Mechanic RGT (Roller Guardian Time) WatchClose-up of dial with hours disc (upper left), minutes (lower center), and seconds (upper right), and a GMT second time zone at the center.

New Brand - Ladoire Geneve Helvet Mechanic RGT (Roller Guardian Time) WatchThe back of the watch reveals some further interesting details of the movement. The micro-rotor for the automatic winding is covered by a circular disc giving it a perfectly balanced look. The balance-wheel bridge shows the two attachments for the Moser double hairspring coming from Precision Engineering in Schaffhausen. A spiderweb on the barrel is part of the corporate design.


New Brand - Ladoire Geneve Helvet Mechanic RGT (Roller Guardian Time) WatchSide-view with GMT regulator

New Brand - Ladoire Geneve Helvet Mechanic RGT (Roller Guardian Time) WatchFrench watch designer Lionel Ladoire

Ladoire website--> LINK

Related Posts;
Hautlence Watches
Independent Watch Brands


| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |


Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your Veins

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your VeinsThe Urwerk Tarantula, a brand new design from the Lennon and McCartney of the watch world - actually.. correction, the Jagger and Richards since Time is on Their Side. Watchmaker Felix Baumgartner and designer Martin Frei are appropriately at the Let It Bleed of their career.

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your Veins
Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your Veins
The ‘T’ in the 103T is at first a mystery, but only until the first look down through the massive sapphire crystal into the mechanism below. There you will sense a shape before you see it. A form slowly emerges from the orbital cross and stretches its mesmerising legs: ‘T’ for Tarantula. URWERK’s latest addition to the UR103 collection has a few genetic codes borrowed from one of the most famous members of the world of arachnids.

In the UR103T, the titanium cross has been replaced by a completely redesigned structure in ARCAP, a very stable copper/nickel alloy. The dark ARCAP wraps around the hour satellites in a protective embrace. This new configuration ensures that the numbers on the hour satellites can only be seen when they are required to tell the time while passing the arc of the minutes.
The actual mechanism for rotating the satellites has been completely modified on the UR103T. With this model the satellites rotate simultaneously behind the scenes in multiple stages, in preparation for their turn to indicate the time. They actually perform a four-beat 480° pirouette. Each satellite turns four 120° turns in the period between leaving the minute arc and arriving again with a new numeral displaying. The orbital satellite complication is over 300 times heavier than traditional hands, a factor that requires absolute precision in the manufacture of its minuscule components, and in assembling, balancing and regulating the complication to obtain an excellent chronometric performance.

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your VeinsThe Time Spider

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your VeinsUrwerk Tarantula's fangs reach deep into your wrist

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your VeinsYou can almost see the blood dripping from the wound

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your Veins
Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your VeinsAn early Urwerk with covered case, cool as %$#@!

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your VeinsThe Maestro Baumgartner

URWERK website-->LINK

All Urwerk Posts at The Watchismo Times-->LINK


Wristshots via Horomundi


| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |

The 1974 La Chaux de Fonds Concept Watches of Jozsef Scherer

The 1974 La Chaux de Fonds Concept Watches of Jozsef Scherer
35 years ago, professor of design Jozsef Scherer entered some bold wristwatch concepts to the 1974 La Chaux-de-Fonds International competition for watch and clock design.

His entries were based upon three parameters;

1. A wristwatch for users of either sex - to be inspired by the rectangle.

2. A quartz-crystal electronic wristwatch - with 7 segment digital display

3. Watch-free category - creation of a timepiece to be worn or carried on the person (pendant, pocket, etc)

Below is his entry for the wrist-free category, a tubular pocket watch, pendant watch, table clock, and/or art object. The digital time is display upon extending the tubes to reveal the digits.

The 1974 La Chaux de Fonds Concept Watches of Jozsef SchererTube table clock

The 1974 La Chaux de Fonds Concept Watches of Jozsef Scherer

The expanding tube

The 1974 La Chaux de Fonds Concept Watches of Jozsef Scherer
Assorted tube clock/watch sketches

The 1974 La Chaux de Fonds Concept Watches of Jozsef Scherer

The 1974 La Chaux de Fonds Concept Watches of Jozsef SchererTube pocket watch

The 1974 La Chaux de Fonds Concept Watches of Jozsef Scherer

Tube pendant watch

The 1974 La Chaux de Fonds Concept Watches of Jozsef SchererAlso a tube wristwatch

And for his electronic quartz crystal electronic watch entry, Mr. Scherer developed the very modern looking semi-sideview models below. You can also see his preliminary sketches below that.

The 1974 La Chaux de Fonds Concept Watches of Jozsef Scherer
The 1974 La Chaux de Fonds Concept Watches of Jozsef Scherer
The 1974 La Chaux de Fonds Concept Watches of Jozsef Scherer
The 1974 La Chaux de Fonds Concept Watches of Jozsef Scherer
The 1974 La Chaux de Fonds Concept Watches of Jozsef Scherer
And finally, his entries for a unisex wristwatch based upon the rectangle;

The 1974 La Chaux de Fonds Concept Watches of Jozsef Scherer
The 1974 La Chaux de Fonds Concept Watches of Jozsef Scherer
The 1974 La Chaux de Fonds Concept Watches of Jozsef Scherer
Although not the winner of the competition, Mr. Scherer's designs were obviously ahead of their time!

Since 1980, Mr. Scherer has been a professor of design at Moholy-Nagy Art and Design University in Budapest.

See related posts;
All Sideview Watches
One-of-a-kind LEDs of Andrew Grima
History of LED Calculator Watches
History of Dynamic Scattering LCD
History of Solar LED Watches
Opus 8 Mechanical Digital
Mechanico Mechanical Digital of de Grisogono
LED-LCD Watch Combos
Zenith Analog/Digital Hybrid
Other Analog-Digital Posts
Alternative Displays
All Digital Watch Posts
All LED Watch Related Posts
All Vintage Watch Posts


| Watchismo Blog Home | Watchismo Shop | Send us tips | Subscribe |


First Look at the HM3 - Horological Machine No 3 Starcruiser & Sidewinder!


First Look at the HM3 - Horological Machine No 3 Starcruiser & Sidewinder!I was lucky enough to be one of the first people in the world to see the latest from Maximilian
Büsser & Friends this morning. Max and Stephen Hallock of MB&F met me for breakfast at NYC's Brasserie to unveil the coolest Horological Machines yet. I hate to use one word to describe the HM3 Sidewinder and Starcruiser, but here it is... WOW.

Summed up, this watch has two variations. The red gold Starcruiser (above) and white gold Sidewinder (below) with two sapphire cones rising up from the case to reveal hours and day/night indicator and the other cone for minutes - transmitted via ceramic ball bearings to laser-cut hands and visible as a drivers style watch, on the side. Each watch shown here displays 10:45 am.

First Look at the HM3 - Horological Machine No 3 Starcruiser & Sidewinder!But what really sets it apart is the fact the movement with automatic rotor is upside down! No more turning your watch over to show off its most essential element. The signature Grendizer battle axe rotor swings wildly under each dome adding to the many layers of the most dimensionally effective Horological Machine to date.

The date wheel surrounds the movement through each dome and indicated by an arrow cut into the case.

Two styles are available in both red gold and white gold. The Starcruiser has both cones on the inside of your wrist and the Sidewinder with cones vertically next to your hand. Both are read easily without turning your wrist. Great when you're driving so fast you can't take your eyes off the road...or sky.

First Look at the HM3 - Horological Machine No 3 Starcruiser & Sidewinder!HM3 Starcrusier & Sidewinder

MB&F Website-->LINK

See Also;
All Max Busser & MB&F Posts-->Link

Press release;

Horological Machine No3

Warning! Horological Machine No3 (HM3) is so far outside existing timekeeping references that it may cause sensory overload. The mind first attempts to take in the kinetically active movement, paradoxically seen in all its glory on the top of the watch and partially circumscribed by a ring of large numerals. However before that information can be processed it is assailed yet again, this time by twin cones rising majestically from the sculptured three-dimensional case. No wonder many struggle to reconcile the reality that this dynamic sculpture is actually a highly technical wristwatch that tells the time and date.

First Look at the HM3 - Horological Machine No 3 Starcruiser & Sidewinder!
Welcome to the world of MB&F!
Individualists demand choice, so HM3 is available in two versions: ‘Sidewinder’, with cones lined perpendicular to the arm and ‘Starcruiser’, with cones in line with the arm. Each version has its own very distinct visual characteristics and each offers its own angle on telling the time.

The twin cones respectively indicate hours and minutes, with the hour cone capped by a day/night indicator. An over-sized date wheel allows for large, legible numbers with the date indicated by a neatly engraved triangle on its perimeter.
However, it is the spectacular open-air theatre presented by the finely finished movement, with its swinging battle-axe shaped automatic rotor and fast oscillating balance wheel, which mesmerises the eye and astounds the senses.
Turning the watch over reveals the technical secret behind HM3’s inverted movement: two large high-tech ceramic bearings efficiently transmitting power up to the cones and date wheel.

First Look at the HM3 - Horological Machine No 3 Starcruiser & Sidewinder!
About MB&F

After decades learning and conforming to the corporate rules of watchmaking, Maximilian Büsser broke the chains and started a rebellion - a rebellion called MB&F. MB&F is an artistic and micro-engineering concept laboratory in which collectives of independent horological professionals are assembled each year to design and craft radical Horological Machines.
The ramifications of these audacious projects are profound. Respecting tradition but not shackled by it, MB&F fuses traditional high-quality watchmaking with cutting-edge technology to create three-dimensional kinetic sculptures.

Horological Machine No3 is the third chapter in the story of MB&F’s horological revolution; it is a story of adventure, of excitement and of passion.

“The Earth is a cradle of the mind, but we cannot live forever in a cradle.”
-Konstantin E. Tsiolkovsky, Father of Russian Astronautics, 1896.


Inspiration and Realization: Horological Machine No3 was developed to display the machine’s beautifully finished movement in operation. Harmoniously crafted bridges, rapidly oscillating balance wheel, gearing and distinctive battle-axe shaped automatic winding rotor are all open to view. This allows the wearer to fully appreciate the art and craft that makes up HM3 and draws the viewer’s gaze inside the highly complex machine; a machine comprising more than 300 fine-finished, high-precision components.

The movement of HM3 has been literally turned upside down to allow for an uninterrupted panorama of the solid gold winding rotor’s graceful arcs and the high-speed oscillations of the balance wheel. Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, winner of the inaugural award for Best Watchmaker at the 2007 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, was entrusted with turning the drawings and designs of Max Büsser and designer Eric Giroud into horological reality and, with his team at Agenhor, he not only met but surpassed the challenge.

First Look at the HM3 - Horological Machine No 3 Starcruiser & Sidewinder!White gold Starcruiser

Starcruiser and Sidewinder: MB&F’s Horological Machines are for individualists who demand art, craft, excellence, exclusivity . . . and choice. To cater to these demanding aficionados, Horological Machine No3 is available in two versions: ‘Sidewinder’, with its cones lined perpendicular to the arm and ‘Starcruiser’, with its cones in line with the arm. Just like their potential owners, each is very special, each is very different.

First Look at the HM3 - Horological Machine No 3 Starcruiser & Sidewinder!Red Gold Sidewinder

Indications:
The three-dimensional time-indicating cones allow for telling the time at a glance, whether driving or typing; however, the fact that nothing like them had ever been attempted before in horology posed considerable challenges. The top caps of the truncated cones are brazed (not glued) to ensure maximum water-resistance and the red ‘hands’ of the hour and minute indicators had to be cut by laser to obtain the incredibly high precision with minimum mass that the design necessitated.

The over-sized date wheel is actually a larger diameter than the movement, a fact that allows for very legible and well spaced 2.5mm high numbers. A neat triangle engraved into the top of the case marks the date.

First Look at the HM3 - Horological Machine No 3 Starcruiser & Sidewinder!Exposed automatic rotor, domes and hands

Mystery Rotor: the prominence of the 22K solid gold battle-axe shaped rotor on the dial of HM3 is certain to increase the recognition of this already iconic MB&F symbol. The rotor is a ‘mystery’ because it appears to defy the laws of physics in being symmetrically balanced instead of having a visibly off-centred mass. This is achieved by machining the underside of one arm to a razor-thin edge so reducing its mass.

“The knack of flying is learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss.”
-Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy

Horological Machine No3
Technical Innovations:


First Look at the HM3 - Horological Machine No 3 Starcruiser & Sidewinder!Ceramic Bearings: Time indications are usually located on the top, or dial side, of a movement. As the movement of HM3 is inverted to display its operation, an efficient solution was needed to bring power from the bottom of the movement to the timekeeping cones and date wheel at the top. Standard pinions set in jewels would have required complex, friction-generating gearing, and would require support top and bottom – a factor which would increase the height of the movement, and thus the watch. So instead of standard jewelled pinions, HM3 features two large-diameter (15mm) high-tech ceramic bearings. These minimize the number of gear-wheels (and thus friction) because of their large diameter and, as they only require support at one end (the base) due to the rigidity resulting from their ultra-high precision design and manufacture, they allow for a thinner movement.

First Look at the HM3 - Horological Machine No 3 Starcruiser & Sidewinder!Large Date: The over-sized date ring has a diameter larger than the movement. While the design allows for large (2.5mm high) easy-to-read numbers, the considerable distance between each number, while aiding legibility, required great ingenuity in enabling the date to be adjusted. Technical constraints in using the crown to operate the date meant that a pusher was called for; however, a pusher has an approximate travel of only 1mm – far short of the 4mm needed to move the date wheel from one day to the next. An ingenious system of amplifying the pusher’s travel was developed using efficient gearing to multiply by four the distance travelled by the pusher.

First Look at the HM3 - Horological Machine No 3 Starcruiser & Sidewinder!2:35

Sapphire cones: Three-dimensional cones have never been used to display time before, and no wonder as their manufacture was said to be impossible. Fortunately the impossible just took a little longer. The difficulty lay not in actually fabricating the cones, but in polishing the interior of their (originally) translucent surface until transparent. The caps of the truncated cones are brazed (a high temperature soldering technique) to their gold rims, a technique which is aesthetically pleasing and ensures a solid and waterproof construction.

Screw heads: Perfection lies in the details, form follows function. Those two statements explain both the reason MB&F has gone to the effort of redesigning the slots of the case screws and their unusual cloverleaf shape. Sharp-edge shaped screw slots require sharp-edge shaped screwdrivers, a tool tailor-made for scratching polished gold screws. The rounded cloverleaf pattern in the head of HM3 screws is not only pleasing to the eye, it reduces the chances of damage to the screw. Horological Machines are micro-mechanical works of art and demand that each and every component both looks superb and functions impeccably.

Case and finish: Though totally original in design, the double indications, idiosyncratic play of matt and polished finished surfaces, iconic mystery rotor and slope-sided case ensure that HM3 is unmistakeably, 100 per cent pure Horological Machine.

"Traveling through hyper-space ain't like dustin' crops, boy."
Han Solo in Star Wars


Horological Machine No3 – Technical Specifications


First Look at the HM3 - Horological Machine No 3 Starcruiser & Sidewinder!Movement:

Three-dimensional horological engine designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht/Agenhor;
Girard-Perregaux oscillator and gear
Balance oscillating at 28,800 bph.
22k rose gold battle-axe shaped ‘mystery’ automatic winding rotor
Hour and minutes information transmitted via ceramic ball bearings to laser-cut hands.

Number of jewels: 36 (all functional)
Number of components: 304

Functions:


Hour and day/night indicator on one cone
Minutes on second cone
Date around the movement

Case:

2 versions: Starcruiser (cones in line with arm)
Sidewinder (cones perpendicular to arm)

Both versions available in 18k white gold/ titanium or 18k red gold/titanium.
Screwed-down crown
Dimensions (exclusive of crown and lugs): 47mm x 50mm x 16mm
Number of case components: 53 - Starcruiser , 57 - Sidewinder

Sapphire crystals:

Cones and both display backs with anti-reflective treatment on both faces.

Strap & Buckle:


Black hand-stitched alligator with 18k gold and titanium custom designed deployment buckle.

First Look at the HM3 - Horological Machine No 3 Starcruiser & Sidewinder!MB&F Team

'Friends' responsible for Horological Machine No3

Concept: Maximilian Büsser/MB&F

Product Design: Eric Giroud – Eric Giroud Design Studio

Technical and Production Management: Serge Kriknoff/MB&F

Movement Development: Jean-Marc Wiederrecht/Agenhor, Nicolas Stalder/Agenhor

Movement manufacturing: Georges Auer/Mecawatch, Salvatore Ferrarotto/APR Quality

Ceramic ball bearings: Patrice Parietti/MPS

Movement assemblage: Didier Dumas/MB&F, Gilles Dalloz/Agenhor

Case and buckle construction and production: Philippe Marti, Dominique Mainier and Stéphane Lhomme of G.F.Châtelain

Sapphire cones: Sébastien Sangsue and Grégory Esseric/Sebal, Peter Bloesch/Bloesch

Dials: François Bernhard and Denis Parel of Nateber

Hands: Pierre Chillier, Isabelle Chillier and Félix Celetta of Fiedler

Strap: Olivier Purnot/Camille Fournet

Presentation case: Frédéric Legendre/Lekoni, Isabelle Vaudaux/Vaudaux

Communication:

Graphic Design - Alban Thomas and Gérald Moulière of GVA Studio
Product Photography - Maarten van der Ende
Display Architecture - Frédéric Legendre/Lekoni
Portrait Photography - Régis Golay/Federal
Webmasters - Stéphane Balet and Guillaume Schmitz of Sumo Interactive
Texts - Ian Skellern
Project Manager - Estelle Tonelli/MB&F

MB&F - The Genesis of a Concept Laboratory

The projects that gave Maximilian Büsser the most pleasure and personal satisfaction during his seven year tenure as head of Harry Winston Timepieces, were those working with talented independent watchmakers on the exciting Opus series watches. An idea for his own personal utopia emerged; that of creating a company dedicated solely to designing and crafting small series of radical concept watches in collaboration with talented professionals he both respected and enjoyed working with. The entrepreneur in Büsser brought the idea to reality.

MB&F is not a watch brand, it is an artistic and micro-engineering concept laboratory in which collectives of independent horological professionals are assembled each year to design and craft radical Horological Machines. Respecting tradition without being shackled by it enables MB&F to act as a catalyst in fusing traditional high-quality watchmaking with cutting-edge technology and avant-garde three-dimensional sculpture.

MB&F is independent people creating for independent people.

Biography– Maximilian Büsser

Maximilian Büsser was born in Milan, Italy, before moving at an early age to Lausanne, Switzerland where he spent his youth. Growing up in a multi-cultural environment and family - his father was a Swiss diplomat who met his mother, an Indian national, in Bombay - led Büsser to develop a cross-cultural broad-based approach to his life and to business.

In July 2005, at the age of 38, Maximilian created the world’s first horological Concept Brand: MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends) in which he is now partnered with Serge Kriknoff. Büsser's dream with MB&F is to have his own brand dedicated to developing radical horological concepts by working in small hyper-creative groups composed of people he enjoys working with. MB&F presented its first timepiece, Horological Machine No. 1 (HM1), in 2006and followed that up with HM2 in 2007 and HM3 in 2008, and Büsser has more radical machines in the development pipeline.

Entrepreneurship is Maximilian Büsser's forte. In 1998 and only 31 years old, he was appointed managing director of Harry Winston Rare Timepieces in Geneva. During his seven years there Büsser developed the company into a fully-fledged and well respected haute horlogerie brand by developing the strategy, products, marketing and worldwide distribution, whilst integrating design, R&D and manufacturing in house. The results were a 900% increase in turnover and the positioning of Harry Winston as one of the leaders in this very competitive segment.

Prior to Harry Winston, Maximilian Büsser's love for high-end horology was strongly imprinted by his first employer, Jaeger-LeCoultre. During his seven years in the senior management team during the 1990s, JLC strongly increased its profile and multiplied its turnover by a factor of ten. Büsser's responsibilities at Jaeger-LeCoultre ranged from Product Management & Development to Sales & Marketing for Europe.

Maximilian graduated in 1991 with a Masters in Micro technology Engineering from the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology, Lausanne.


MB&F Website-->LINK

See Also;
All Max Busser & MB&F Posts-->Link

| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |


On Top of the World with the Hysek COLOSSO

On Top of the World with the Hysek COLOSSOPerhaps the next James Bond villain with plans to dominate the planet can time his greedy destruction with this newly announced Hysek "Colosso." Most obvious is the cyrstal pustule filled with a dimensional earth rotating for local or GMT time. And of course, appropriately priced for any haute dictatorship ($550,000).

On Top of the World with the Hysek COLOSSOsideviews

On Top of the World with the Hysek COLOSSO
Movement:
  • Hours, quarter and minute repeater, cathedral timbre, 62 jewels
Functions:
  • Big date at 12 o'clock, indication of the cities of the 24 time zones linked to the GMT
  • Retrograde time zones with a linear double display situated at the lower and displayed in curvex position with indication arrows that indicate which side to observe (24 to 12 hours / 12 to 24 hours).
  • Transmission feedback, biplan, for time zone indications, made by 2 dials.
  • Power Reserve: 48h
  • Frequency: 18'000 vibrations / hour
Globe:
  • 3 dimensions globe of 12mm diameter at 12 o'clock, considered as a visual GMT display turns on itself in 24 hours and can be set on local or on GMT time.

On Top of the World with the Hysek COLOSSOThe Hysek Colosso on the wrist (via PuristPro)

On Top of the World with the Hysek COLOSSO
On Top of the World with the Hysek COLOSSO
Hysek website-->Link

See related stories on The Watchismo Times;
World Time Posts
Hysek Raptor
Jorg Hysek's HD3 Vulcania
Magellan & Think The Earth Watches
Astronomical Watches
Meteorite Watches
Richard Mille Planetarium Tellurium
Astronomic Watches of Van Der Klaauw

via Ablogtoread



| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |
Pierre Kunz Retrograde Vertigo & Spirit Diver Tube Depth Gauge WatchesReal Life Photos of the Concord C1 Quantum Gravity TourbillonChristophe Claret Introduces his DualTow Display Belt Single Pusher Planetary Chronograph with Striking MechanismTHE OPUS 9 REVEALED TODAY AT BASELWORLD! Jean-Marc Wiederecht & Eric Giroud for Harry Winston Rare TimepiecesNew Model - Maîtres du Temps Chapter One Black Dial White Gold Moonphase/Day Roller Tourbillon WatchNew Brand - Ladoire Geneve Helvet Mechanic RGT (Roller Guardian Time) WatchUrwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your VeinsThe 1974 La Chaux de Fonds Concept Watches of Jozsef SchererFirst Look at the HM3 - Horological Machine No 3 Starcruiser & Sidewinder!On Top of the World with the Hysek COLOSSO

Report "Watchismo Times"

Are you sure you want to report this post for ?

Cancel
×