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THE WATCHISMO TIMES WATCH BLOG A reliquary of obscure timepieces from bygone eras as well as the cutting-edge watch designs of today.

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First Hand Experience with Greubel Forsey's Invention Piece No. 1

First Hand Experience with Greubel Forsey's Invention Piece No. 1Timezoner and collector Kee Yew has purchased one of the coolest timepieces ever made, the Greubel Forsey Invention Piece No. 1. (originally featured here->link) He shares his experience and photos of this limited edition double tourbillon on Timezone-->Link (one of only 22 made)

First Hand Experience with Greubel Forsey's Invention Piece No. 1Close-up of tourbillon-orbiting indicators

The value? Let's just say that for the same price, you could buy a house or the Invention Piece No. 1.

Greubel Forsey website-->Link

See also;
All Greubel Forsey Posts on The Watchismo Times
All Independent Watchmaker Posts
All Tourbillon Posts


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New Photos of the Breguet Tradition 7047 Fusee Tourbillon

I've been waiting to see more invasive photographs of the fusee and chain mechanism of the Breguet Tradition 7047 Tourbillon and am happy to direct you to Watching Horology where that feat has been captured in great detail-->Link

"The second of this year's remarkable tourbillons from Breguet is the La Tradition Tourbillon, which extends the tourbillon as an art form both forwards into the future and which also reaches backwards in time, incorporating one of the rarest horological complications of them all- the fusee and chain."

"Fusees in clocks and pocket watches were not great rarities but in the wristwatch they are virtually unheard of, and a combination of the fusee and tourbillon is almost unknown. Lange & Sohne has presented fusee and chain wristwatches with the tourbillon, and more recently there is the Vianney Halter Cabestan, but the Breguet La Tradition Tourbillon is a totally unique experience aesthetically."

From the very informative article by Jack Forster of Horomundi-->Link


Related Posts;
Production Cabestan-->Link
Prototype Cabestan-->Link
All Tourbillon-->Link
All Breguet Related-->Link

Enter The Watchismo Times 1st anniversary vintage chronograph giveway!-->LINK


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The FREAK(s) of Ulysse Nardin

There is no dial, there are no hands, there is no crown, and the movement itself rotates to tell the time. One of the more important developments in the history of watchmaking, the Ulysse Nardin Freak is definitely a new mechanical breed. It's as if the watchmakers lived on The Island of Doctor Moreau. One of the earlier mustations (2003's No.339) is being offered at auction next week-->Link

As explained by HH, "The concept was a technical tour de force, requiring the combined efforts of three of watchmaking’s most renowned engineers. The arrangement of parts was inconceivably unorthodox - it has essentially no true case! The crystal and the bezel are actually part of the movement; the Freak has no crown, no hands and the movement pivoted to indicate time."

No. 339 Freak

And most recently, Ulysse Nardin developed the 'InnoVision' Freak (below). Improving breakthroughs with more extensive use of the light flexible material silicium throughout the movement and 96 non-lubricated ball bearings guide the barrel both vertically and laterally, in fact, the entire watch is now oil/coating/lubrication free.


A chart of the 10 innovations of the InnoVision Freak

If you'd like to attempt a deeper understanding of this wormhole of complexity, continue reading in depth articles here-->Horomundi and-->The Purists or download the PDF's at the Ulysse Nardin's website-->Link

The Freak is the brainchild of Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, as interpreted by Ulysse Nardin's research and production team. "The Freak" is a tourbillon of 7-day duration, without hands or winding crown. In most tourbillons, the balance wheel assembly rotates once per minute in a cage. In the "Freak", the whole movement rotates once per hour, the drive wheel meshing with teeth around the whole circumference of the dial, a similar arrangement mounted below driving the hour wheel. The mainspring is located underneath the movement and spans the entire diameter of the case. The extra large size of the mainspring provides the watch with a power reserve of one week. Winding is accomplished by turning the back of the case anticlockwise. The “Dual Direct Escapement” invented by Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, astronomer, mathematician and master watchmaker. Among his many inventions for Ulysse Nardin are the "Perpetual Ludwig" and the "Trilogy" of astronomical wristwatches. The “Dual Direct Escapement” consists of 2 impulse wheels transmitting the energy directly to the balance wheel; they each rotate in the same direction and connect alternately with the balance. Using the technology of the CSEM (Centre Suisse d'Electronique et de Microtechnique), the 2 wheels at the center of the “Dual Direct Escapement” are plasma-engraved out of single-crystal silicon, the material from which computer chips are made. This technique offers the greatest hardness coupled with low weight."

Source - Antiquorum

Released earlier this year, the "The FREAK DIAMonSIL® in platinum is the first timepiece sporting a synthetic nanocrystal diamond escapement grown on a silicium raw part." (source -> HH)

Ulysse Nardin website-->Link


Be sure to enter The Watchismo Times 1st anniversary vintage chronograph giveway!-->LINK





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Fitting In and Out - Rare Expanding & Contracting Hand Watches

Fitting In and Out - Rare Expanding & Contracting Hand WatchesIn my collecting history, I always had a special place for oblong, oval, rectangular, thin, or just very wide watches. The problem they all share is the restriction of their hands being only as long as the shortest width of the dial. Once the hands reach their widest points, they often appear too dwarfed. It got me thinking, how cool would it be if hands of a watch could extend out as the width of the watch gets wider and contract back to the smallest? Well, lo and behold, I discovered nearly everything has been done before at some point in time. Expanding and contracting hand history was sporadic and only a few were ever made.

Fitting In and Out - Rare Expanding & Contracting Hand Watches
This fantastic specimen circa 1795, made by watchmaker William Anthony of London. Famous for his verge watches with many being made for the Chinese market. His watch above features hands that work like a pantograph or scissors that follow cams to expand and contract. Valued conservatively between $100,000-$250,000.

via 2007 Complete Price Guide to WatchesFitting In and Out - Rare Expanding & Contracting Hand Watches


Fitting In and Out - Rare Expanding & Contracting Hand WatchesClose-up of William Anthony 'Scissorhands'

Fitting In and Out - Rare Expanding & Contracting Hand WatchesNow, go back nearly 120 years before that and you have this watch by Henricus Jones above, circa 1678. Featuring a minute hand that expands and contracts - always pointing to the outer edge of the oval chapter ring. Also one of the earliest watches with a balance spring.

Via Patek Philippe Museum

Fitting In and Out - Rare Expanding & Contracting Hand WatchesOk, flash forward almost 350 years later (today) and you'll see an ingenious recurrence of this concept. The Urwerk 201 Hammerhead. One of the most cutting edge watch brands today have not only revived and modernized the wandering hour watch, but also reinventing the expanding and retracting hand by placing a telescopic pointer inside the hour cubes. As each cube rotates to the corresponding minute display, the protuberance slowly extends and retreats.
(Again, I'm always trying to find a way for the word "protuberance" to appear in my posts)

Fitting In and Out - Rare Expanding & Contracting Hand WatchesUrwerk Telescopic Pointer

Related Posts;
All Pocket Watches



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Fitting In and Out - Rare Expanding & Contracting Hand Watches

Fitting In and Out - Rare Expanding & Contracting Hand WatchesIn my collecting history, I always had a special place for oblong, oval, rectangular, thin, or just very wide watches. The problem they all share is the restriction of their hands being only as long as the shortest width of the dial. Once the hands reach their widest points, they often appear too dwarfed. It got me thinking, how cool would it be if hands of a watch could extend out as the width of the watch gets wider and contract back to the smallest? Well, lo and behold, I discovered nearly everything has been done before at some point in time. Expanding and contracting hand history was sporadic and only a few were ever made.

Fitting In and Out - Rare Expanding & Contracting Hand Watches
This fantastic specimen circa 1795, made by watchmaker William Anthony of London. Famous for his verge watches with many being made for the Chinese market. His watch above features hands that work like a pantograph or scissors that follow cams to expand and contract. Valued conservatively between $100,000-$250,000.

via 2007 Complete Price Guide to WatchesFitting In and Out - Rare Expanding & Contracting Hand Watches


Fitting In and Out - Rare Expanding & Contracting Hand WatchesClose-up of William Anthony 'Scissorhands'

Fitting In and Out - Rare Expanding & Contracting Hand WatchesNow, go back nearly 120 years before that and you have this watch by Henricus Jones above, circa 1678. Featuring a minute hand that expands and contracts - always pointing to the outer edge of the oval chapter ring. Also one of the earliest watches with a balance spring.

Via Patek Philippe Museum

Fitting In and Out - Rare Expanding & Contracting Hand WatchesOk, flash forward almost 350 years later (today) and you'll see an ingenious recurrence of this concept. The Urwerk 201 Hammerhead. One of the most cutting edge watch brands today have not only revived and modernized the wandering hour watch, but also reinventing the expanding and retracting hand by placing a telescopic pointer inside the hour cubes. As each cube rotates to the corresponding minute display, the protuberance slowly extends and retreats.
(Again, I'm always trying to find a way for the word "protuberance" to appear in my posts)

Fitting In and Out - Rare Expanding & Contracting Hand WatchesUrwerk Telescopic Pointer

Related Posts;
All Pocket Watches



Search for watches

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Intimate Relations with Greubel Forsey's Multi-Axis Tourbillons

Two new videos featuring the actions of Greubel Forsey's (multi-axis) Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incline and Double Tourbillon 30º.





Video Link

The inventions of Greubel Forsey

And my personal favorite, the Invention Piece no.1

Greubel Forsey website-->Link


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The Inertia of F.P. Journe

The Inertia of F.P. Journe
The genius of F.P. Journe as captured by Danish Television-->Video Link


F.P. Journe website-->Link

Related Posts;
Centigraphe Souveraine
Sonnerie Souveraine
Independent Watchmaking



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Urwerk on Steroids - Titanium Aluminum Nitrade Coated 103.08

Urwerk on Steroids - Titanium Aluminum Nitrade Coated 103.08
Thanks to Ian, the moderator of the Urwerk Forum at Horomundi for this latest unveiling and information!

The TiAlN coated URWERK 103.08 - Harder than Steel!

TiAlN - Titanium Aluminum Nitride - treatment is well-known in industry for its exceptional properties. A TiAlN coating less than 4 microns thick has the effect of multiplying the resistance of the underlying metal to scratches, shocks, oxidation and even acids.

Its colour is dependant on the Titanium/Aluminium ratio and can range from melting bronze to stormy black.


Urwerk on Steroids - Titanium Aluminum Nitrade Coated 103.08
For the very first time URWERK present their iconic 103 with a steel case and and not just any steel an incredibly hard TiAlN-coated steel. With this new model, URWERK blurs the frontier between horological art and cutting-edge technology. The coat of the steel 103.08 is the hardest yet known in the world of haute horlogerie.

Urwerk on Steroids - Titanium Aluminum Nitrade Coated 103.08
"The TiAlN appears to have the gift of endowing supernatural properties to common metals like steel." Felix Baumgartner, master watchmaker and co-founder of URWERK

"TiAlN is a hard material which can be used as protective coating to enhance the lifetime of a variety of work pieces against mechanical or chemical attacks. The hardness of TiAlN is often between 30 and 40 GOa. In comparison, the hardness of DLC (diamond like carbon) is 20-25 GPa"
. Dr Ayat Karimi, Institute of Complex Matter Physics, EPFL, Lausanne.

While the 103.08 will not be a limited edition, only the first 50 watches will have the angular shaped crystal pictured here. After those first 50 'Launch Pieces', the shape of the crystal will revert to the standard curved shape.

Urwerk on Steroids - Titanium Aluminum Nitrade Coated 103.08
Urwerk on Steroids - Titanium Aluminum Nitrade Coated 103.08
All Posts Urwerk Related-->Link


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The Birth of Modern Horological Art

A very interesting article by Wei Koh for HH Journal about the recent and phenomenal growth of modern haute horology. He appropriately compares this new 'movement' to the cinema of the French New Wave and the art of the mid-century abstract expressionists.

Link-->Page 1 Link-->Page 2

"“What was true for the painters of yesterday is false for the painters of today.” - Umberto Boccioni

“I was always astonished how the industry was using 21st century materials and techniques to make 19th century watches. I say if we are going to use today’s materials and today’s technology then we have to make today’s watches.” - Richard Mille

“I am a watchmaker, my father is a watchmaker, my grandfather is a watchmaker. But I could no longer continue to repeat the past as they had. I had to find my own way.” - Felix Baumgartner, co-founder Urwerk




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The Meandering History of Wandering Hours

The Meandering History of Wandering HoursThe Wandering Hour display (also known as a Floating Hour or Chronoscope) has been around four centuries. In 1656 the Campanus brothers had built a night clock for Pope Alexander XII. In a total innovation, they replaced the then conventional hands with hour figures on rotating discs, which performed a semicircular arc across the clock face. The correct figure appeared at the start of each new hour. It then moved clockwise across the arc of the dial and, depending on its progress, simultaneously marked the quarter or half-hour, which had just passed. Alexander's night pendulum clock was illuminated by an oil lamp so that the pope could see the time in the dark. The concept is that the moving hour display keeps an almost metaphorical count of the passing minutes rising and setting along the hourly arc.

"It is a deceptively simple and elegant system, and it is literally as old as the combination of concentric hours and minutes hands to which we are so accustomed. -- The orbit of the elegantly simple planetary ring, and the epicyclic dance of hour numerals which surrounded it, remained hidden beneath a solid dial." (source)

The Meandering History of Wandering HoursCampani Brothers Tabernacle Night Clock
Late 17th Century --> Link

Below are samples of Wandering Hour watches over the past four centuries. Only during the past few decades have watchmakers realized the full beauty of this display and exposed their dials to reveal the symbolic inner workings as part of the design itself.

The Meandering History of Wandering HoursWatches with wandering hour dials first appeared in the 17th century. In England, they were often commissioned by the King, to be presented to visitors or in recognition of loyalty to the country. The watch above from 1710 is likely the portrait of Frederick I of Prussia (1657-1713) -->Link

One of the earliest watchmakers to adapt this style to a pocket watch was British watchmaker Joseph Windmills. Joseph Antram, watchmaker to the King of England also produced wandering hours like this one-->Link

The Meandering History of Wandering HoursA variation was the 'Sun and Moon' dial. A 1750 Dutch pocket watch by G.Knip (above). Within the inner half ring, a revolving disc is painted with the sun and moon rotating every 24 hours, thereby indicating not only the hour but whether it is day or night. A minute hand was used in the normal circular fashion. -->Link Another model-->Link

The Meandering History of Wandering HoursSideview of the 'Sun Moon' Wandering Hour

The Meandering History of Wandering Hours1820 Chronos Breguet Wandering Hour
Etablissement Mixte series

Typically, four digits appear on three disks, each rotating epicyloidally one quarter while out of view and advancing to the next corresponding hour. The minutes were easily approximated by the hour position within the arc.

The Meandering History of Wandering HoursBreguet Wandering Hour Wristwatch by Gubelin

The Meandering History of Wandering HoursThe Audemars Piguet "Star Wheel" reinvented this system in the early 1990s, creating many variations of wandering hour wristwatches. "Three transparent sapphire disks, or star wheels, are each inscribed with four hour indicators and attached to a rotating center wheel. As the assembly turns, the current hour indicator is rotated into view and then passed across a 120-degree minutes sector. The time is read by noting the visible hour pointing to the current minute." (source) Additional information-->Link

The Meandering History of Wandering HoursStar Wheel Sapphire Disks

Each disk is obscured until it rises into the arc where the background contrasts the digits into legibility.

The Meandering History of Wandering HoursLate 1990s "John Schaeffer Star Wheels"
With Minute Repeater

The Meandering History of Wandering Hours2000 Millenary Star Wheel
125th Anniversary Model

The Meandering History of Wandering HoursVincent Calabrese "Horus"

"The wandering dates conceived by Vincent Calabrese (above & below), The jumping hour hand is displayed in a small window that turns around the dial, showing the minutes passing. There is only one hand on the dial, that of the seconds. The same principle as it applies to the date is a world first." (source)

The Meandering History of Wandering HoursVincent Calabrese "Ottica"

The Meandering History of Wandering HoursAlain Silberstein Wandering Hour "Cyclops"

These orbiting satellite displays have had a few revivals over the past 300 years but only in wristwatches in the past few decades. The brand Urwerk (below) is taking this very old concept to interstellar levels. Their revolutionary wandering hour displays have become three dimensional, the numbers are placed on spinning conical discs or rotating cubes with retractable retrograde pointers.

The Meandering History of Wandering HoursUrwerk's original 101
Inspired by the Campanus Night Clocks
and the Millennium Falcon from Star Wars

The Meandering History of Wandering HoursUrwerk series 102 "Nightwatch"
also known as "Sputnik"

The Meandering History of Wandering Hours
The Urwerk wandering display was just too cool to keep covered.

The Meandering History of Wandering HoursUrwerk 103 series
Their first display with exposed hours

"The innovative rotating satellite complication is the heart and soul of the 103 series of watches. The orbital cross carries the four hour-satellites and an internal Geneva cross governs each of these satellites. Each of the satellite features three hour numbers four hours apart. As a satellite approaches the crown, its Geneva cross engages a pin and rotates the disk 120° for the new hour to take its position." (source)

The Meandering History of Wandering HoursThe Urwerk 201 'Hammerhead'

The Meandering History of Wandering HoursThe Urwerk team evolved their Wandering Hour into cubes and retrograde minutes for the Harry Winston "Opus V."

The Meandering History of Wandering HoursQP Magazine recently featured this public clock in London, The Newgate Clock, possibly the only public wandering hour clock in the world. It was created by horologist Joanna Migdal and inspired by Joseph Windmills original designs. See how it works here-->Link

"The innovation lies not only in the display which evokes the natural course of the sun on the horizon, but also on the original satellite mechanism whose future applications are yet to be discovered." (source)

Related Posts;
Jump Hour Watches
Mystery Dial Watches
Watch History
Retrograde Watches

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First Hand Experience with Greubel Forsey's Invention Piece No. 1New Photos of the Breguet Tradition 7047 Fusee TourbillonThe FREAK(s) of Ulysse NardinFitting In and Out - Rare Expanding & Contracting Hand WatchesFitting In and Out - Rare Expanding & Contracting Hand WatchesIntimate Relations with Greubel Forsey's Multi-Axis TourbillonsThe Inertia of F.P. JourneUrwerk on Steroids - Titanium Aluminum Nitrade Coated 103.08The Meandering History of Wandering Hours

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