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Watchismo Times

THE WATCHISMO TIMES WATCH BLOG A reliquary of obscure timepieces from bygone eras as well as the cutting-edge watch designs of today.

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Phenomenal Photos of the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Tourbillon

Phenomenal Photos of the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso TourbillonThe Purists have posted some pretty amazing shots of the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 as well as some brain busting technical information.

Report-->Link


Phenomenal Photos of the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Tourbillon
See Also;
All Jaeger LeCoultre Posts
All Tourbillon Posts

All New 2008 Watch Posts-->Link


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First Look! Bell & Ross BR Instrument Grand Minuteur & Minuteur Tourbillon

First Look!  Bell & Ross BR Instrument Grand Minuteur & Minuteur TourbillonThe Watchismo Times is proud to introduce the first look of two new watches from Bell & Ross. The Limited Edition BR Instrument Minuteur Tourbillon and Grand Minuteur.

First Look!  Bell & Ross BR Instrument Grand Minuteur & Minuteur Tourbillon
First Look!  Bell & Ross BR Instrument Grand Minuteur & Minuteur TourbillonUsing aeronautical instrumentation, the highest standard for readability, reliability and performance, Bell & Ross designers have sought to reproduce as faithfully as possible a cockpit timepiece that fits on the wrist.

In 2005 Bell & Ross launched the INSTRUMENT line, which upended traditional watch making with its innovative concept and design. It has since established itself as an icon watch.

In 2007 Bell & Ross made a noted entry into fine watchmaking with the BR01 INSTRUMENT TOURBILLON fitted with an outstanding grande complication movement.

In its constant quest for innovation, this year Bell & Ross is introducing a Grande Complication with functions never before seen in watchmaking: the GRAND MINUTEUR.

BR INSTRUMENT MINUTEUR TOURBILLON and BR GRAND MINUTEUR
High-quality Watchmaking (the movement) + High-Technology (the case) + High Readability (the dial)

Armed with its experience in the field of aeronautical instrumentation and fine watchmaking,
Bell & Ross is presenting two new exclusive and complementary grande complications:

A tourbillon, a large timer, a power reserve indicator and a small second hand: four complications and two exclusive movements fitted to two outstanding watches designed for two worlds.

The BR GRAND MINUTEUR is a time measuring tool with specific, exclusive functions. The hour counter is connected to a large counter, the timer, that measures short times. An additional Flyback function launches a new measurement almost immediately.

High-quality Watchmaking:
The large, double scale timer (sixty and ten divisions) is an additional timepiece that measures a duration of time in hours and minutes from a chosen moment. This large stand-alone timer is fi tted with a Flyback, a system for resetting to zero and quickly relaunching the measurement. The Flyback optimizes the precision and rapidity in measuring several successive time intervals. The hour and minute display is supplemented by a small, stand-alone counter for seconds and a 10-day power reserve indicator.

High-Technology:
The ultra-light titanium case, the carbon fi bre dial and the aluminium movement bridges all contribute to making the watch lightweight and high performing. Its angle rib structure and DLC fi nish coat (Diamond Like Carbon, friction resistant to more than 4000 Vickers) reinforces the solidity of the case.

High Visibility:
The dial design optimizes readability by disassociating the time indications and putting them in order of priority: four stand-alone counters indicate in order (based on their diameter) the timer function, hours and minutes, power reserve and seconds. Giving precedence to the Timer function answers a functional requirement and turns the BR GRAND MINUTEUR into the ultimate professional measuring tool.

First Look!  Bell & Ross BR Instrument Grand Minuteur & Minuteur TourbillonResearch of Grand Minuteur case and dial designs

First Look!  Bell & Ross BR Instrument Grand Minuteur & Minuteur TourbillonResarch of dial designs

First Look!  Bell & Ross BR Instrument Grand Minuteur & Minuteur TourbillonResarch of dials

First Look!  Bell & Ross BR Instrument Grand Minuteur & Minuteur TourbillonResearch of power reserve indicators


See Also;
All New 2008 Watch Posts-->Link



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All Mechanical Digital - The MECCANICO dG by de GRISOGONO

All Mechanical Digital - The MECCANICO dG by de GRISOGONODe GRISOGONO is about to launch the worlds most complicated Mechanical Digital/Analog watch at Basel 2008. The MECCANICO dG has two time-zones with a traditional analog display on top but one of the more amazing digital displays at the bottom. A pure mechanical digital display imitating LED segments but in fact are rolling tubes! Granted this is a CAD rendering but the real watch will be shown in a few days at Baselworld in Switzerland. I'll be in Basel so stay tuned to The Watchismo Times for the first photos...

All Mechanical Digital - The MECCANICO dG by de GRISOGONO
The Meccanico Press Release;
RETURN TO THE FUTURE!

The inventors and designers of Haute Horlogerie enjoy a rare privilege: the luxury of choice. Existing constructional principles and concepts can of course always be revisited and reinterpreted but a design team can also decide to strike out in an entirely new direction. Founder and president of de GRISOGONO, Fawaz Gruosi naturally favors the second approach. With the MECCANICO dG, the Geneva-based house's latest entry, de GRISOGONO is introducing a design that projects hallowed horological traditions far into the future. With its 651 components, the MECCANICO dG's mechanical movement is one of the most intricate made today. A Haute Horlogerie timepiece with two distinct timezones, it is the first to display both analogue and digital time by mechanical means. This world first - and de GRISOGONO patent! - features a highly complex time mechanism inside a particularly contemporary design.

For his company's fifteenth anniversary, Fawaz Gruosi, founder and president of de GRISOGONO, was determined to break new ground and explore an area no watch manufacturer had ever ventured into: a digital display driven by an exclusively mechanical system. Although it took considerable confidence and even a touch of rashness to involve himself with a project of this kind, Fawaz Gruosi never looked back, intent on leading the brand into uncharted and definitely challenging territory.

With its patented double time display, both analogue and digital, the MECCANICO dG design inaugurates a totally novel concept in mechanical Haute Horlogerie. A single mechanical movement, twin timezones, two types of display - the MECCANICO dG embodies a major innovation, combining for the first time in the history of horology a digital time display and a mechanical power supply.

A NEW DIMENSION

The digital display is a child of the quartz era. At the time, electronics seemed to have won the day and mechanical timekeeping was under threat. Three decades later, magnificently intricate mechanical movements are more in demand than ever and Haute Horlogerie enjoying unprecedented success. The intervening years saw traditional watchmaking recover and reinvent itself. Generating invention after invention, creating ever more stunning, gloriously finished designs, traditional watchmaking has conferred objet d'art status on its most cunningly complex timepieces. Yet up to now, it had never revisited the digital time display. With the MECCANICO dG, this reluctance is now a thing of the past. The design propels horological history forward into a new dimension.

The MECCANICO dG can be described as a dense cluster of microsystems featuring extremely elaborate cam and gear assemblies. Its exclusive de GRISOGONO handwound mechanical movement comprises 651 components. It is composed of an analogue display of the hours and minutes on the upper dial and a digitally displayed second timezone on the lower dial. The mechanically operated digital display of the second timezone shows tens of hours, single hours, tens of minutes and single minutes, all displayed by mobile microsegments driven by an assemblage of 23 cams connected to a set of gears and a triggering and synchronization system.

The time information is displayed by an array of 23 horizontally and vertically positioned microsegments. Vertical segments are 9 mm high and weigh at most 25 milligrams while the horizontal segments measure 2.90 mm in length and weigh only 10 milligrams. The segments have four faces: two opposing visible faces fitted with colored strips and two opposing unmarked faces. Time changes are effected by 90° rotations of the required segment or segments. Involving one to twelve segments, time changes are lightning fast.

GROUNDBREAKING DESIGN

The MECCANICO dG's exclusive Haute Horlogerie technical design is matched by striking contemporary styling. Its intricate mechanical systems are visible through its transparent dial plate. Also featuring colored strips, the analogue time display's hour markers seem suspended in thin air so as to reveal the underlying mechanism. Like every de GRISOGONO movement, the MECCANICO dG's own caliber is meticulously finished and its components blackened. The words “de GRISOGONO” and “Swiss Made” are inscribed directly on the movement while the back of the watch features a nameplate bearing the name “MECCANICO dG”.

Despite the power needed to action the double analogue and digital display and the torque required to effect the instantaneous rotation of the digital display's microsegments, the MECCANICO's handwound mechanical movement, exclusive to de GRISOGONO, provides a power reserve of some 35 hours, visible through a cambered sapphire backplate on a 90° sectoral display on the movement's reverse side.

The MECCANICO dG case does justice to its exceptional movement. Notable for generous dimensions (56 x 48 mm) and camberedlines, water-resistant to 30 meters (~ 100 feet), this pioneering design is available in a choice of styles: titanium, titanium and red gold, titanium and rubber and titanium and platinum. In keeping with the design's futuristic allure, its correctors and the crown guard are fashioned from vulcanized rubber. Its analogue display is set by the crown opposite 3 o'clock while the second timezone is set by a pair of correctors - for hours at left, for minutes at right. Also crafted from vulcanized rubber, the strap is fitted with a deployment clasp buckle featuring the de GRISOGONO crest.

Launched to mark an exceptional horological year at de GRISOGONO, the MECCANICO dG is being produced in a limited edition of 177 watches in titanium and 177 in white gold.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
  • Reference DG 042
  • Caliber Exclusive to de GRISOGONO
  • Movement thickness 11.45 mm
  • Movement dimensions rectangular: 38.10 x 34.70 mm
  • Number of components 651 for the movement, 70 for the case
  • Jeweling 77 (movement and display)
  • Frequency 28,800 v.p.h. (4 Hz)
  • Power reserve about 35 hours
  • Indications Hours, minutes and second timezone
  • Case titanium; 5N red gold; titanium and gold; titanium and platinum, titanium and rubber
  • Water resistance 30 meters (~ 100 feet) = 30 atm.
  • Hands “dauphine” style in 18K red gold
  • Strap black natural rubber
  • Clasp Double deployment construction in titanium and 5N red gold.

See Also;
All New 2008 Watch Posts-->Link


All Mechanical Digital - The MECCANICO dG by de GRISOGONOvia Horomundi


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SIHH Premiere - Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon

Debuting in April 2008 at SIHH in Geneva, Jaeger LeCoultre will be introducing another mindblowing Gyrotourbillon movement but this time as part of the Reverso collection. The Gyrotourbillon features a spherical tourbillon with two carriages spinning on two axes freeing the regulating organ from effects of gravity in all positions. Reverso watches can be flipped over for alternative displays. The 2006 Reverso a Triptyque, one of the most complicated watches ever made and also the world's first three faced watch.

The Gyrotourbillon 1 (above), first introduced in 2006 features a double cage tourbillon with equation of time and perpetual calendar and the Master Minute Repeater that produces tones at 55 decibels or double the volume of the world’s next loudest minute repeater.

To really appreciate the Gyrotourbillon, you must see it in action as shown on the video below;

Video-->Link

History of the Reverso - In 1931 British Polo Players in India requested a watch that could be worn during the hard charging clashes on the field. Responding to this Jacques-David LeCoultre and the Societe Jaeger turned to the most capable design engineer of the time, Rene-Alfred Chauvot. Chauvot’s solution was to make a watch that was a case inside a case. The inner case contained the movement and could be pivoted within the outer case (or carriage) that comprised essentially of a skeleton and watch lugs. Once the case was pivoted or reversed, the crystal was completely protected from blows. In 1991, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s CEO Gunther Blumlein unveiled the Reverso remade into a modern high complication with the Reverso 60eme. This was followed by a Reverso tourbillon in 1993 and a Reverso minute repeater in 1993. This year to celebrate the 75th anniversary of the Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre has exploited the unique architecture of the Reverso case to create the world’s first three faced watch. Fittingly this marvel dubbed the Reverso a Tryptique offers up a golden harvest of haute de gamme complication. (via Horomundi/Revolution)

Reverso Tourbillon via Timezone

See Also;
All Jaeger LeCoultre Posts
All Tourbillon Posts

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Horological Crystal Ball - Sneak Peek into the Near Future

Horological Crystal Ball - Sneak Peek into the Near FutureFrom the looks of it, 2008 might be an interesting year.

More to come...

Chime in with your guesses to who is making this arcane mechanical-digital.


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First Hand Experience with Greubel Forsey's Invention Piece No. 1

First Hand Experience with Greubel Forsey's Invention Piece No. 1Timezoner and collector Kee Yew has purchased one of the coolest timepieces ever made, the Greubel Forsey Invention Piece No. 1. (originally featured here->link) He shares his experience and photos of this limited edition double tourbillon on Timezone-->Link (one of only 22 made)

First Hand Experience with Greubel Forsey's Invention Piece No. 1Close-up of tourbillon-orbiting indicators

The value? Let's just say that for the same price, you could buy a house or the Invention Piece No. 1.

Greubel Forsey website-->Link

See also;
All Greubel Forsey Posts on The Watchismo Times
All Independent Watchmaker Posts
All Tourbillon Posts


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I Totally Forgot! The Memoire1 Mechanical Memory Watch Was Unveiled

I Totally Forgot!  The Memoire1 Mechanical Memory Watch Was UnveiledA new achievement in chronograph watchmaking -- The mechanical memory of the Maurice Lacroix "Memoire1".

via Timezone & Horomundi (much more information about the complications)

See also;
All Maurice Lacroix Posts

Check out my $100-$100,000 holiday gift guide!-->LINK


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Horological Peephole! First Peek of the HM2 by Maximilian Busser & Friends

Horological Peephole!  First Peek of the HM2 by Maximilian Busser & FriendsSure, I feel guilty looking at the HM2 in a very private moment. But I just can't help myself, it's a damn nice looking watch!

Within a week of being publicly exposed in full-frontal glory, the MB&F "Horological Machine N°2" can only be seen with these advance elemental photographs. Showing the crown (with the iconic HM2 "battle axe" rotor design on it), a portion of one display and at least two indications, and what appears to be some sort of bad-ass futuristic motorcycle engine! We shall see...stay tuned.

The case alone is made up of 102 different coponents, setting itself as one of the most, if not THE most complex watch cases ever made. Max mentioned to me that the case construction is inspired by a game he used to play as a kid… called Meccano, where parts are bolted together (similar to Erector sets).


Horological Peephole!  First Peek of the HM2 by Maximilian Busser & FriendsPerhaps a grip for your thumb to adjust the crown?

Horological Peephole!  First Peek of the HM2 by Maximilian Busser & FriendsCrown with HM1 "Battle Axe" Rotor Design

Horological Peephole!  First Peek of the HM2 by Maximilian Busser & FriendsThe entire sneak preview - Next week!

All Related MB&F Post Links;
MB&F HM2 Friends Photo
MB&F HM2 Movement
Max Busser Interview
Early Designs & Sketches of the HM1
Horological Machine No 1



Enter The Watchismo Times 1st anniversary vintage chronograph giveway!-->LINK


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The FREAK(s) of Ulysse Nardin

There is no dial, there are no hands, there is no crown, and the movement itself rotates to tell the time. One of the more important developments in the history of watchmaking, the Ulysse Nardin Freak is definitely a new mechanical breed. It's as if the watchmakers lived on The Island of Doctor Moreau. One of the earlier mustations (2003's No.339) is being offered at auction next week-->Link

As explained by HH, "The concept was a technical tour de force, requiring the combined efforts of three of watchmaking’s most renowned engineers. The arrangement of parts was inconceivably unorthodox - it has essentially no true case! The crystal and the bezel are actually part of the movement; the Freak has no crown, no hands and the movement pivoted to indicate time."

No. 339 Freak

And most recently, Ulysse Nardin developed the 'InnoVision' Freak (below). Improving breakthroughs with more extensive use of the light flexible material silicium throughout the movement and 96 non-lubricated ball bearings guide the barrel both vertically and laterally, in fact, the entire watch is now oil/coating/lubrication free.


A chart of the 10 innovations of the InnoVision Freak

If you'd like to attempt a deeper understanding of this wormhole of complexity, continue reading in depth articles here-->Horomundi and-->The Purists or download the PDF's at the Ulysse Nardin's website-->Link

The Freak is the brainchild of Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, as interpreted by Ulysse Nardin's research and production team. "The Freak" is a tourbillon of 7-day duration, without hands or winding crown. In most tourbillons, the balance wheel assembly rotates once per minute in a cage. In the "Freak", the whole movement rotates once per hour, the drive wheel meshing with teeth around the whole circumference of the dial, a similar arrangement mounted below driving the hour wheel. The mainspring is located underneath the movement and spans the entire diameter of the case. The extra large size of the mainspring provides the watch with a power reserve of one week. Winding is accomplished by turning the back of the case anticlockwise. The “Dual Direct Escapement” invented by Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, astronomer, mathematician and master watchmaker. Among his many inventions for Ulysse Nardin are the "Perpetual Ludwig" and the "Trilogy" of astronomical wristwatches. The “Dual Direct Escapement” consists of 2 impulse wheels transmitting the energy directly to the balance wheel; they each rotate in the same direction and connect alternately with the balance. Using the technology of the CSEM (Centre Suisse d'Electronique et de Microtechnique), the 2 wheels at the center of the “Dual Direct Escapement” are plasma-engraved out of single-crystal silicon, the material from which computer chips are made. This technique offers the greatest hardness coupled with low weight."

Source - Antiquorum

Released earlier this year, the "The FREAK DIAMonSIL® in platinum is the first timepiece sporting a synthetic nanocrystal diamond escapement grown on a silicium raw part." (source -> HH)

Ulysse Nardin website-->Link


Be sure to enter The Watchismo Times 1st anniversary vintage chronograph giveway!-->LINK





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Intimate Relations with Greubel Forsey's Multi-Axis Tourbillons

Two new videos featuring the actions of Greubel Forsey's (multi-axis) Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incline and Double Tourbillon 30º.





Video Link

The inventions of Greubel Forsey

And my personal favorite, the Invention Piece no.1

Greubel Forsey website-->Link


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Phenomenal Photos of the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso TourbillonFirst Look!  Bell & Ross BR Instrument Grand Minuteur & Minuteur TourbillonAll Mechanical Digital - The MECCANICO dG by de GRISOGONOSIHH Premiere - Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso GyrotourbillonHorological Crystal Ball - Sneak Peek into the Near FutureFirst Hand Experience with Greubel Forsey's Invention Piece No. 1I Totally Forgot!  The Memoire1 Mechanical Memory Watch Was UnveiledHorological Peephole!  First Peek of the HM2 by Maximilian Busser & FriendsThe FREAK(s) of Ulysse NardinIntimate Relations with Greubel Forsey's Multi-Axis Tourbillons

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