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Watchismo Times

THE WATCHISMO TIMES WATCH BLOG A reliquary of obscure timepieces from bygone eras as well as the cutting-edge watch designs of today.

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Centigraphe Souverain by F. P. Journe


"The Centigraphe Souverain from F.P. Journe. An in-house designed and manufactured fully-integrated chronograph, beating at 21,600 bph AND able to record elapsed time down to a mechanically nanoscopic 1/100 of a second! Combined with the tachometer scales, being able to measure intervals of 1/100th second makes it theoretically possible to time something moving at 360,000 km/hr."

- From Ian Skellern's great post in Horomundi-->Link He also shot the video below showing off the hummingbird paced functions.


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All Wound Up - 2007 Baselworld & SIHH

So far, my favorite watches for 2007 include DeBethune, Sarpaneva, HD3, Hautlence, Greubel Forsey, and the Opus 7. Nevertheless, here are some other noteworthy new releases from Basel/SIHH;

All Wound Up - 2007 Baselworld & SIHHGlashütte Original - PanoTourbillon XL

All Wound Up - 2007 Baselworld & SIHHVianney Halter 'Janvier Classique Lune et Soleil'
Solar Time & Moonphase-->Link

All Wound Up - 2007 Baselworld & SIHHFP Journe 'Centigraph' -->Link

All Wound Up - 2007 Baselworld & SIHHJaeger LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme Lab
First lubricant-free watch-->Link

All Wound Up - 2007 Baselworld & SIHHA.Lange & Sohne 31
First 31 Day Power Reserve-->Link
(Wind once, runs for a month!)

All Wound Up - 2007 Baselworld & SIHHConcord C1-->Link

All Wound Up - 2007 Baselworld & SIHHBell & Ross BR01 Instrument
Blue, Orange & all black Phantom-->Link

Related new-release posts;
DeBethune-->Link
Greubel Forsey-->Link
Opus 7-->Link
Sarpaneva Supernova-->Link
Hautlence-->Link
HD3 Vulcania-->Link
Bell & Ross Tourbillon-->Link


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De Bethune is De Bomb

De Bethune is De BombDe Bethune, a five year old brand radically rising the ranks of independent cool. Their latest is this 2007 prototype seen at Basel called The TimeZone - Power Prototype #1. Seemingly the next stage of the DB Power collection. They're a very innovative and exclusive brand with the perfect blend of technical prowess and aesthetic sophistication.

De Bethune is De Bombvia Josh @ Horomundi

De Bethune is De BombThe 2006 DeBethune DB22 Power Automatic

De Bethune is De BombThe 2005 DBS model with patented three-dimensional
revolving moonphase sphere at 6

De Bethune is De BombClose-up of moon phase ball
DBS collection-->Link




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The Latest Cabestan Photographs

The Latest Cabestan PhotographsI've been waiting to see more extensive photos of the Cabestan by Vianney Halter and Jean-François Ruchonnet of the DMC Group. So thanks to SuitbertW who just shot these for The Purists. The Cabestan has yet to go into production (as far as I know) and these prototypes seem to be the only existing specimens so far.

The rolling barreled displays are powered by chain links and fusee wound by a winding winch!

Mechanical specs below photos;

The Latest Cabestan Photographs
The Latest Cabestan Photographs
The Latest Cabestan Photographs
The Latest Cabestan Photographs
A spectacular architecture
(via EuropaStar)

This really spectacular architecture seems to be absolutely original. The mechanical design of the Cabestan, including its tourbillon, is totally transversal. The indications (hour, minute, seconds, and power reserve) appear on the cylinders located at the four “corners” of the watch.
Starting from the lower left, we find the barrel, which transmits its driving power to the movement by the intermediary of a chain. This chain is connected to a second cylinder, at the upper left, made up of one part of a fusee (placed horizontally as opposed to the traditional fusees that are always vertical), and the other of the cylindrical power reserve indicator (a total of 72 hours).

Still on the upper end, but this time on the right, we find two cylinders next to each other, providing the perfectly readable hours and minutes. In the lower right hand corner, we can see the tourbillon, which is also placed vertically and is directly linked to another cylinder, which quite logically gives the seconds indication, as the tourbillon makes one rotation per minute.
This completely original mechanical movement, with manual winding, a fusee and a tourbillon, integrates six ball bearings into its operation. It is also water-resistant to 30 metres. The entire movement is visible from above and from the side, under a double sapphire crystal (“Trimaran” model) with three recessed and curved sides, taking the form of a “hood”, all in a very sturdy design.

Winding the watch and setting the hour and minutes are effected using a winding stem in the form of a movable “winch” that links directly to one of the small “capstans” that are found at the four exterior angles of the case: at the upper left, it acts directly on the fusee and, by the intermediary of the chain, allows the barrel to be wound; at the upper right, it acts on the minute cylinder which is connected to that of the hours. The two other small “capstans” are only there for decoration and to complete the aesthetics of the case. Once the small winch is used, it is easily stored in the buckle of the watch’s bracelet.

Related Posts;
The Other Cabestan
Jacob & Co. Quenttin
HD3 Vulcania
Tag Heuer V4 Beltdrive
Vianney Halter Trio
Vianney Halter Antiqua


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Girard Perregaux 1945 Jackpot Tourbillon

Girard Perregaux 1945 Jackpot Tourbillon
Well, since the Opus 5 concept watch 'Time Bandit' was never made, I guess I'll have to settle for this Girard Perregaux '1945 Jackpot Tourbillon'. Just introduced this week at the Geneva SIHH show, this hautegadget has an actual miniaturized mechanical slot machine just above the hands and tourbillon. Each roller has five symbols , hearts, diamonds, spades, horseshoes, and three liberty bells for jackpot. When the arm on the side is pulled, the spin also activates a striking mechanism of chiming gongs - for those vintage casino sounds. While modern barreled watches like Jean Dunand's Shabaka and the vintage rollers of the Patek Cobra incorporate timekeeping to this inventive display, the GP Jackpot represents what one-armed-bandits do best, taking lots of your money.

Girard Perregaux 1945 Jackpot TourbillonThe specs;
• 18k pink gold case
• Dimensions: 43.00 x 43.95 mm
• Height: 17.30 mm
• Antireflective sapphire crystal
• See-through case back, fastened with 4 screws
• Water-resistant to 30 metres
• Movement GIRARD-PERREGAUX GPFAY08
• Jackpot Tourbillon under gold Bridge
• Mechanical with manual winding
• Calibre: 38.60 x 32.60 mm
• Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz)
• Power reserve: minimum 96 hours (4 days)
• Functions: hour, minute, small seconds on the Tourbillon
• Slot machine and striking mechanism
• Alligator straps with folding buckle

via Timezone

Related posts;
Time Bandit
Patek Philippe Cobra
Jaz Derby Swissonic
Jean Dunand Shabaka

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Attack of the Independents - Greubel Forsey 'Invention Piece 1'

Attack of the Independents - Greubel Forsey 'Invention Piece 1'
Thanks to Ian Skellern, Wei Koh and Josh at Horromundi / Revolution who met with Stephen Forsey and Robert Gruebel at Baselworld for the amazing first photos of the prototype 'Invention Piece 1'. The dynamic duo dubbed Greubel-Forsey have been creating spectacular timepieces since they teamed up in 1999. And coming off the Opus 6, they are back and badder than ever with this Invention Piece 1. A series of 22 watches, 11 in red gold and 11 in white gold. A truly spectacular wristwatch with time indicators revolving around the edges of the open double tourbillon 30°.

Attack of the Independents - Greubel Forsey 'Invention Piece 1'Ian explains the timekeeping;
"
Not quite sure how to tell the time? The red arrow pointing towards the center of the dial indicates the hours, while the blue arrow displays the minutes. The inside tourbillon cage rotates in two minutes so there are two arrows 180° apart. The time shown above is 5:17. To complete the indications on the dial we have traditional seconds at 11 and 72 hour power reserve at 2."

Attack of the Independents - Greubel Forsey 'Invention Piece 1'
Attack of the Independents - Greubel Forsey 'Invention Piece 1'
Attack of the Independents - Greubel Forsey 'Invention Piece 1'The story of Greubel Forsey and the Double Tourbillon 30°
is painstakingly engraved on the back.

Attack of the Independents - Greubel Forsey 'Invention Piece 1'
Attack of the Independents - Greubel Forsey 'Invention Piece 1'Be sure to check out their impressive new website (with videos) showcasing their latest inventions (shown below)-->Link

Attack of the Independents - Greubel Forsey 'Invention Piece 1'Their new Double Tourbillon 30° (left)
and Tourbillon Seconde Incline (right)

Related Links;
Opus 6 by Greubel Forsey-->Link
Greubel Forsey-->Link


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Wheel of Fortune - Opus 7 by Andreas Strehler

Wheel of Fortune - Opus 7 by Andreas StrehlerThese are the biggest couple of weeks in the watchmaking world. The yearly horological orgy and pissing contest is back for the 2007 BaselWorld Watch Fair and the Geneva SIHH.

With that said, I'll be featuring anything particularly interesting in the coming weeks so stay tuned...

For starters, one of the more anticipated models to come out is the secretive Opus 7 project with Andreas Strehler. An unexpected choice for watchmaker partly due his previous minimalistic creations. At first glance, the Opus dial appears to have flying buttresses made of metallic squid. Upon further examination, you learn that the simple but complex system for its three alternating functions. One press of the pusher within the crown displays the hours, a second, the minutes, and a third push shows the power reserve up to 60 hours. All this is exhibited on just one disc with only two rows of digits. Each display is separate from one another so glancing down is out of the question, you gotta take the time to spin this wheel of fortune.

Wheel of Fortune - Opus 7 by Andreas StrehlerOne of only 50 models produced. The case is 45mm wide of rhodium plated white gold.

Wheel of Fortune - Opus 7 by Andreas Strehler
Wheel of Fortune - Opus 7 by Andreas Strehler
Wheel of Fortune - Opus 7 by Andreas Strehler
Wheel of Fortune - Opus 7 by Andreas Strehler
Wheel of Fortune - Opus 7 by Andreas Strehler
Related posts;
The Opus Time Bandit
Opus 6 by Gruebel Forsey

Links;
Harry Winston
Opus 5 by Felix Baumgartner
Opus 3 by Vianney Halter


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X-Ray of the MB&F Horological Machine #2

X-Ray of the MB&F Horological Machine #2Look into the innards of the HM2 (Horological Machine #2) by Max Busser & Friends. Due out later in the year (not at Basel World), this specifically designed movement by a relatively unknown watchmaker handpicked by Max and he is keeping him secret (as well as the watch functions) until the release date nears. He also added, "The case will not mimic the movement but you will understand the architectural link between both of them."

Max further explained, "Eric Giroud, the designer with whom I develop my creations, and I designed the first version of HM2 by April 2005 (I was still at that time at the head of Harry Winston) but we scrapped everything and started again end of 2005. This movement and watch is the result. The movement you see is functional and has been working for the last four weeks. We expect to deliver the first watches end of the year. You can see by the shape of the movement that it does not resemble HM1 at all. That is part of the philosophy of our Concept Label – each year (if possible) we will come out with a completely different piece of horology in shape and functions. But one point is crucial: the movement will always be designed specifically for the watch. I can also tell you that the Master watchmaker who developed it is virtually unknown to the public (maybe to some hardcore aficionados) and so I am very proud to promote his virtually unknown talent."

X-Ray of the MB&F Horological Machine #2
X-Ray of the MB&F Horological Machine #2I welcome any thoughts or projections of what this movement is capable of. Email me

X-Ray of the MB&F Horological Machine #2
X-Ray of the MB&F Horological Machine #2The original HM1

Related;
MB&F HM1-->Link
MB&F Website-->Link


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Urwerk Time Bandit - The Opus That Never Was

An original sketch of what might have been the Opus V. Codenamed 'Time Bandit' by Urwerk's Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner, it was an overwhelmingly difficult mechanical concept in which the wearer would engage the slot-machine style lever to activate the spinning digits and form the correct time on the side of the watch.

Even better, Felix Baumgartner describes the conundrum to Wei Koh of Horomundi/Revolution;

"You had to arm it like a slot machine. The time indications were placed on cylinders, but the watch did not show the time until you armed it. Once you released the arming lever these cylinders would turn until they stopped precisely at the right time. It was a completely crazy idea. It was really more complicated than a minute repeater; in fact, the base of this watch was essentially a minute repeater. You had a time telling base caliber and then a system of snail cams and racks like that in a minute repeater. When you armed the watch you would essentially be arming something similar to as strike barrel. But instead of translating the time into hammer strikes on gongs they would operate this one arm bandit like indication. And this indication involved a whole additional mechanism. When conceptualizing the watch we were joking that we were gambling with time, because we didn’t know if it was possible to create in a little over one year. This proved right."


Via Horomundi-->Link
The Complete Urwerk Story-->Link

The actual & highly successful Opus V
Related Urwerk Posts-->Link

Ian Skellern's video below
showing off the action of the watch


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Sarpaneva Supernova

Sarpaneva Supernova
Finnish Watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva is on the verge of his own stellar explosion with his latest watch called 'Supernova'. An extraordinary evolution in style, complication and design spawned from his Loiste collection. Other than the blued moonphase, the handmade hardened stainless steel watch creates the illusion of a black & white image. A modified ETA automatic movement with his trademark 'Turbini' winding mass visable from the caseback. With the rotor opposing the direction of cutaway view, the winding of the watch creates a kaleidoscope of spinning blades. The artistically skeletonized dial reveals negative space with stylish precision while perfectly blending the cog-style case into the depths of its spiny machined gauges.

An edition of only ten watches priced at 12,500 Euros.

It will be publicly introduced at the upcoming BaselWorld show in Switzerland.

These prototype photos are by Horlographer Harry Tan of WatchingHorology. Please see his extensive photo-montage of the Supernova here--> Link

Sarpaneva Watches--> Link

Sarpaneva SupernovaSeconds register

Sarpaneva SupernovaBlued moonphase

Sarpaneva Supernova
Sarpaneva Supernova
Sarpaneva SupernovaTurbini

Related posts;
Sarpaneva Loiste II
Eero Aarnio Prototype



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Centigraphe Souverain by F. P. JourneAll Wound Up - 2007 Baselworld & SIHHDe Bethune is De BombThe Latest Cabestan PhotographsGirard Perregaux 1945 Jackpot TourbillonAttack of the Independents - Greubel Forsey 'Invention Piece 1'Wheel of Fortune - Opus 7 by Andreas StrehlerX-Ray of the MB&F Horological Machine #2Urwerk Time Bandit - The Opus That Never WasSarpaneva Supernova

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