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THE WATCHISMO TIMES WATCH BLOG A reliquary of obscure timepieces from bygone eras as well as the cutting-edge watch designs of today.

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UnBNBelievable - BNB & The Confrérie Horlogère and the Only Watch 2009 Release

By Alex Doak for The Watchismo Times

By now, many are aware of BNB Concept and their work – after all, it was only a matter of time before people started to wonder where the likes of Romain Jerome, De Witt, Hublot, Concord, Jacob & Co. and Bell & Ross acquired their blisteringly innovative tourbillons all of a sudden. Jorg Hysek’s HD3 visionaries were the only ones to freely admit the origins of their gothic-tech complications from the start, but once people started spotting BNB’s trademark spiral-spoked escape wheel all over the place, the cat was out of the bag. Once was a time when people were reluctant to reveal the minds behind their rent-a-calibres – now everyone's falling over themselves to get a piece of the BNB action and the instant provenance it brings. As BNB attests:

“BNB wishes not to become a new watch brand, but rather a label of quality. Should BNB create its own brand, it would inevitably become a competitor to its customers.”

Unlike Renaud & Papi's selective austerity or Christophe Claret's mercenary dictatorship, BNB is a genuinely cool, relaxed community of eager young things with genuinely new ideas about how watches should work – with no less than five facilities in Duillier, Crans-près-Céligny, La Vallée de Joux, La Chaux-de-Fonds and Nyon at their disposal, all crammed full of the latest tools, CNC machines, electroplating and engraving machines, and rank-upon-rank of sterile assembly lines. What’s doubly impressive about BNB is that they make complete WATCHES for their 25-or-so clients – not just the multi-plane/dual-axis tourbillon movements they’re famous for. For a five-year-old outfit, that’s serious progress.

Members of the Confrérie Horlogere 2008-2009 and Mathias Buttet (CEO and founder BNB Concept ; founder Confrérie Horlogère).

From the left: David Rodriguez, Ranieri Illicher, Clara Bise, Mathias Buttet, Ken Koshiyama, Sabitry Montandon, Gabriel Salgado-de Arce, Brigitte Carneiro.




It was therefore inevitable, despite the abovementioned pledge, that as a fully verticalized entity, BNB would eventually indulge in its own vanity projects – albeit under an alternative banner, "Confrérie Horlogère". (Perhaps reminiscent of Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey’s Complitime factory, which bankrolled proceedings before they unleashed their eponymous double tourbillon).

Confrérie Horlogère is a bit Opus, a bit Maitres du Temps, a bit Time Aeon – only the emphasis is on nurturing youngsters with ideas beyond their usual means. And in this first year, no less than seven talents and four almost-complete watches have been put on pedestals by BNB’s effusive CEO Matthias Buttet (one of the "B"s in BNB - the others being Barbasini and Navas, all of them formerly of Franck Muller’s Watchland - Buttet as a micro-technical engineer, Navas and Barbasini as prototypists).

In Buttet’s words:

“The Confrérie Horlogère, far from being a product, is an ambitious project to promote such values as work, creativeness, craftsmanship, community spirit, respect and above all freedom of women and men moved by the will to express themselves through excellence, as well as unexpected design.”

And I’m pleased to report that every one of Buttet’s fresh-faced prodigies have come up with equally amazing movements and watches... It really is quite incredible to see such a tranche of brilliance emerge all at once.

Every year, Confrérie Horlogère will select a maximum of 7 “graduates” to develop their own watch, produced on a very small-scale – no more than 10 pieces each. And unlike many flash-in-the-pan pantomime projects, which run the danger of costing more to fix and service over a lifetime than the watch itself (if indeed you find a capable-enough and willing watchmaker in the first place, once the flash-in-the-pan brand has gone belly-up) the CH timepieces will benefit from a lifetime’s guarantee. Buttet trusts his kids that much.

This year’s 7 “companions” are:

1. David Rodriguez, a Peruvian watchmaker, whose “la Résilience” tourbillon demonstrates sublimely anarchic finishing with Punk overtones that actually reveal through its scars and stitching the difficulties Rodriguez faced as an abused orphan on crutches who, finally, found in Switzerland and watchmaking a refuge. Metaphorically biographical watchmaking – surely a world first?

la Résilience


2. Brigitte Carneiro, watchmaker, with “la Face Cachée”


la Face Cachée

3. Ken Koshiyama, watchmaker, with “Racines japonaises”

4. Ranieri Illicher, watchmaker, whose la Passion à l’italienne micro-brand debuts with the “Bel Canto” minute repeater tourbillon – a chiming watch literally suspended in a bell, which also serves as the watch case – why didn’t anyone think of this before?!

Bel Canto Minute Repeater (thanks to DonCorson Watchprosite.com)

5. Sabitry Montandon, watchmaker

6. Clara Bise, watchmaker

7. Gabriel Salgado de Arce, engraver and chaser of watch components, whose coral reef ImmenSEAty just defies all watch-finishing convention. Words can’t do this justice.

ImmenSEAty

8. An eighth Companion has already been selected for the year 2009- 2010. His name is Jérôme Siegrist, a watchmaker who is already involved in an ambitious project that focuses on recreating and scaling down to wristwatch dimensions an extremely complex mechanism built, anachronistically, two centuries B.C. and salvaged from a shipwreck in 1901. Antikythera will be presented by the end of 2009, but you can get an inkling of what to expect-->here.



The ANTIKYTHERA mechanism wristwatch concept

Beside these individual “Complications” watches, the Companions will all be collaborating on joint Confrerie Horlogère projects, either as small-series “Classiques” or one-off “Masters” pieces. So far, there’s Masters Clef du Temps – an ornately skeletonised vertical tourbillon movement (presumably derived from the one developed for Concord, but as usual completely original and unlike anything seen before) – and Classiques Chronographe Tourbillon Pulsion 1 (I’ve run out of superlatives….)



Le Chronographe Tourbillon « Pulsion »


BNB Factory

BNB Confrérie Horlogère Watchmakers

Confrérie Horlogère for Only Watch 2009

The Master watch

The Confrérie Horlogère’s Only Watch 09 (by BNB Concept) is “La Clef du Temps” (the Key to Time) – a watch created by Buttet in collaboration with the brand’s R&D team. It is the first timepiece created in the “Les Masters” collection. It is a working prototype of a sophisticated timepiece called “La Clef du Temps”, which will be produced in small series after the Only Watch 09 auction. It is an innovative tourbillon watch featuring a hand-wound mechanical movement with hour and minute indications, a 3-day power reserve indication (PRI) in a 120° sectoral indicator at 8 o’clock and retrograde running seconds at 4 o’clock. The retrograde seconds of 0, 30, 60 depict the rhythm of time as it passes, and the power reserve reminds you when to rewind the piece as it makes its 0, ½, and 3-day passage. Like a body, if you don’t eat properly your body doesn’t function properly, and so with the watch if you forget to rewind it.

“The funds from Only Watch are there to indirectly help the children suffering from Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy,” says Buttet. “So I thought: what is it that everyone hopes for? Everyone hopes that these children will live longer than expected. I wanted this watch to express this dilemma.”

Buttet wanted the piece to convey two very important and thought-provoking concepts associated with being a parent: Firstly, the idea that however rich you are, true luxury lies in the freedom to manage one’s time as one wishes; secondly, the watch has a sophisticated mechanism that allows the wearer to “adjust the speed” of his personal time by adjusting a simple three-position lever that alters the running speed of the hours and the minutes.


Hence
Position 1 the pace of time slows by half so that the true value of one hour is displayed as a half-hour on the dial.
Position 2 the pace of time stays at true/standard time.
Position 3 the pace of time runs at double speed so a true/standard half-hour becomes a full hour on the dial of the watch.

As Buttet says, “This way, pleasant moments can be made to last twice as long while unpleasant ones can be shortened by half while the ability to ‘return’ to true time is always there.” The watch’s extremely sophisticated mechanism allows the watch’s time indications to remain in positions 1 or 3 as long as its wearer wishes, since a simple turn of the lever to position 2 (the watch’s memory) resets the hour and the minute hand to the real time of day.

As Buttet sees it, it’s his way of extracting some form of balance from a seemingly unjust world that makes us feel that when life is good, time flies, but it slows to a crawl during the rough patches. As with a child with Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, the pleasure of the good times passes all too fast and the painful moments all too slow.

The movement is shaped like a stylized human brain because, according to Mathias Buttet, “Time is a sort of “state of mind” which is the result of the will of any single person. Not to have time to do something is, at the end, a personal decision and it is not at all something imposed by someone else. Every person decides if he or she wants to have the time to do or not to do something.” Moreover he adds “If you look at the figures on the dial you will see that they are mirror images of themselves. Some numbers are reflected face-to-face, showing the moments that are the result of the one’s will; others are reflected back-to-back: in this case, it is fate that controls your life.”

The futuristic case is shaped like a spaceship – ever searching for a better life, and the strap is composed of four rubber-clad steel strands. Lifetime warranty and the totally Swiss-made provenance of its every part and component are other characteristics of the “La Clef du Temps”.


LINK: Confrérie Horlogère Website
LINK: BNB Concept


All Alex Doak Post for The Watchismo Times


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Denis Guidone Concept Timepieces - Ora Unica Scribble Watch Ora il Legale Daylight Savings Tilt clock & Other Prototype Designs

Denis Guidone Concept Timepieces - Ora Unica Scribble Watch Ora il Legale Daylight Savings Tilt clock & Other Prototype Designsvia Yanko Design;


Save yourself from the arduous task of setting time forwards or backwards at daylight savings with the concept clock "Ora ilLegale" designed by Denis Guidone.

It will eventually be produced by NAVA, and will be displayed at the upcoming Milan Design Week. The designer, Denis Guidone, has had one other concept posted on Yanko, a clock too, how about that!


Denis Guidone Concept Timepieces - Ora Unica Scribble Watch Ora il Legale Daylight Savings Tilt clock & Other Prototype Designs
Denis Guidone Concept Timepieces - Ora Unica Scribble Watch Ora il Legale Daylight Savings Tilt clock & Other Prototype Designs
Denis Guidone Concept Timepieces - Ora Unica Scribble Watch Ora il Legale Daylight Savings Tilt clock & Other Prototype Designs"Denis Guidone was just selected as the winner of the international design competition Adamo Eva. His whimsical scribble watch design called “Ora Unica”, meaning One Hour, is a wonderful contrast of chaos and order mixed together. In their words, “The hour and minute hands are represented by a single line drawn on two circular faces, which turn one inside the other. Both faces together resemble a graphical gesture, a doodle that changes as time passes.”

Denis Guidone Concept Timepieces - Ora Unica Scribble Watch Ora il Legale Daylight Savings Tilt clock & Other Prototype Designs
Below, some new minimalist watch designs by Denis Guidone

Denis Guidone Concept Timepieces - Ora Unica Scribble Watch Ora il Legale Daylight Savings Tilt clock & Other Prototype Designs
Denis Guidone Concept Timepieces - Ora Unica Scribble Watch Ora il Legale Daylight Savings Tilt clock & Other Prototype Designs
Denis Guidone Concept Timepieces - Ora Unica Scribble Watch Ora il Legale Daylight Savings Tilt clock & Other Prototype Designs
via Yanko Design & Technabob

Denis Guidone Website


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Real Life Photos of the Concord C1 Quantum Gravity Tourbillon



Finally, no more slick CAD teasers, the real deal, Concord's C1 Quantum Gravity live in Basel.

Thanks to Watchluxus


Video Link of the new tourbillon bi-axial from BNB Concept for the Concord C1 Quantum Gravity timepiece is placed and alive.




UNVEILED - Concord C1 Quantum Gravity Aerial Bi-Axial Tourbillon with Liquid Vertical Power Reserve

UNVEILED - Concord C1 Quantum Gravity Aerial Bi-Axial Tourbillon with Liquid Vertical Power Reserve
UNVEILED - Concord C1 Quantum Gravity Aerial Bi-Axial Tourbillon with Liquid Vertical Power ReserveNew Concord C1 Quantum Gravity Bi-Axial Tourbillon

UNVEILED - Concord C1 Quantum Gravity Aerial Bi-Axial Tourbillon with Liquid Vertical Power ReserveA liquid featuring green phosphorescent nanoparticles
fills a tube to assist in the reading of the power reserve

An aerial bi-axial tourbillon, vertical power reserve.

Designed and developed by C Lab Series, a special unit specialising in extreme watchmaking, the C1 QuantumGravity follows from last year's C1 Tourbillon Gravity.

Devised in Fall 2008, the C1 QuantumGravity was born after a 5-month incubation period; BNB Concept created the movement, while Studio Bellon finalized the design.

UNVEILED - Concord C1 Quantum Gravity Aerial Bi-Axial Tourbillon with Liquid Vertical Power Reserve

C1 Movement by BNB Concept

An aerial bi-axial tourbillon mechanism. A vertical power reserve. Individualist seconds. A stripped-down dial and spectacular volumes: the latest specimen from the C Lab Series defies all theories. Even better, it creates its own rules: emptiness is its core material, engineering its constancy; chemistry a dare and transparency a must.

Designed and developed by the C Lab Series, the C1 QuantumGravity symbolizes unrestricted and unconstrained time, where only impulse and intuition prevail. A special unit dedicated to extreme watchmaking, the C Lab Series has a mission: to push the boundaries of mechanical watch making by introducing it to new modes of expression. Last year, the C1 Tourbillon Gravity timepiece inaugurated a new watchmaking era, where time liberates itself without reserve.

In 2009, the C Lab Series is expanding this watchmaking metamorphosis to embrace new horizons. Initially devised in the fall of 2008, the C1 QuantumGravity was born after a 5-month incubation period, nurtured by the will and tireless energy of a team that works on instinct alone. BNB Concept was entrusted with the creation of the movement, while Studio Bellon finalized the design.

The result: a new species of watch that lives time as if it were an experiment and space, a source of stimulation. The creation of the C1 QuantumGravity constitutes a provocative act in itself, while its construction is an exploration carried out at the brink of excess and defiance.

A perpendicular power reserve

First equation: Power reserve = verticality + fluidity

A cylindrical piston. A vertical back-and-forth movement. Liquid. These were the three essential elements combined by the C Lab Series to create this astounding equation involving mechanics and chemistry.

Traditional design and display codes have been demolished to make way for a mobile glass column, located between 12 and 1 o’clock, which serves as the power reserve with a vertical indicator. On the chemistry side of things, a liquid featuring green phosphorescent nanoparticles fills a tube to assist in the reading. Meanwhile, on the mechanical side, this energy gauge operates perpendicularly to the caliber, rising up and down from its base to signal the remaining energy of the movement in relation to its available three-day power reserve. Its graduated outline corresponds to level indicators, which are secured to the inner surface of the watch.

A stayed bi-axial tourbillon

Second equation: Tourbillon = suspension + axes2

Cables. A bi-axial movement. A lateral position. This collection of challenges had to be taken on to erect a spectacular tourbillon carriage.

Exported to the timepiece’s Western border and literally suspended, it rotates in a multi-dimensional manner on two axes – the main one being vertical. Its baffling structure has adopted the rigid and light elevation of cable-stayed bridges: one arm, extended from cables measuring just 2/10th of a mm-wide and fastened to the plate, maintains the carriage vertically and thus reinforces the impression of an independent arrangement. The suspension mechanism is supported by an elastomeric self-tensing system, which enables the cable/arm hinge to be precisely adjusted and the dilatation effects, compensated.

Levitating mechanics

Third equation: Time = space

48.5 mm in diameter and 22 mm in depth: the appearance of a Titan, whose proportions reach a staggering 57.5 mm in breadth. Yet, the C1 QuantumGravity remains easily wearable thanks to its lugless design which ensures a perfect fit on the wrist. The use of Titanium for the case and Aluminum for the majority of movement components bestows a lightness on this timepiece that is as astounding as its size.

The build of this watch composed of 511 parts is also offset by an anatomy that privileges space and transparency: the case, whose machining required 400 hours of fine adjustment, can be reduced to a structure that is literally enveloped by 5 sapphire crystals. The mechanism is visible from all angles.

Although the case and movement share a genetic bond as they were made for each other, they are flanked by other elements that seem to operate self-sufficiently: to the West, a glass excrescence house the tourbillon carriage while to the East, two symmetrical casings house the winding mechanism and the seconds, at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock respectively.

Concealed entirely, the imposing time-setting key can be ejected from its armor by simply pressing on the push button. As for the seconds, they evade the dial to nestle on the side of the case. They are engraved in luminescent orange against a black aluminum roll and can be seen through a window whose cut echoes the push button of the crown. A lateral sapphire crystal reveals the rotating orange blades of the seconds wheel.

The dial has also been contaminated by this urge for maximum openness. Although it strives to display the flight of hours and minutes, its focus is on empty spaces. The depth of its field of vision is dizzying, the feeling of levitation exhilarating. Deconstruction, a concept so dear to Concord, has been magnified: the C1 QuantumGravity apprehends time as a perspective, using emptiness as a material on which time features are grafted.

Under the impressive sapphire crystal, the panorama, amplified to its utmost, outlines time that has almost been dematerialized. And despite the exuding madness, legibility has remained at the core of its construction. Just like a suspended glass saucer, the off-centered hour-circle between 3 and 4 o’clock dresses a part of the cavity at the bottom of which the movement is supported. A spider-like structure acts as a scaffold under the transparent disc punctuated by the luminescent orange markers. The 6.5 mm high hand-fitting is a technical prowess in itself and adds to the feeling of dizziness.

Wedged at the bottom of the abyss, the mechanical manually wound movement choreographs time with precision. An officer-style case-back which appears as an air-lock at every opportunity reveals the geometric circuit, the right-angled skeletonized bridges, the gear-trains that transmit energy to the tourbillon carriage and the cable adjustment. The finishing touches highlight an industrial design that is both methodical and futuristic: a black aluminum plate against anthracite aluminum bridges, rubies against polished steel screws… They embody the spirit of a watch made with high-tech materials, glass, emptiness and colored luminescent materials.

The C1 QuantumGravity defends time that is inexorably linked to space. Prophetic, its construction created in record time propels Concord into a parallel world where intuition is a favored ally and its design and mechanics a harbinger for the future of watchmaking. An addiction to breaking established codes and extrapolating underlies Concord’s creative mettle. C1 QuantumGravity is its ultimate creation.

Go to www.c1-quantum.ch to find out about how this exceptional timepiece, in a limited edition of 10, was created.

Technical Features:

Movement
Mechanical manually wound movement
Caliber Concord C104
21,600 vibrations per hour
3-day power reserve
42 Jewels

Functions
Hours, minutes
Roll of seconds external to the case
Vertical power-reserve indicator
Bi-axial tourbillon

Case
Titanium case with white gold elements
Dimensions: 48.5 mm in diameter – 22 mm in depth
5 sapphire crystals
See through officer-style hinged case back

Dial
Aerial skeletonized dial

Strap
Black vulcanized rubber fixed to the case with 4 screws


For More information;

Link: C1 Concord Main Site


Related Posts;
Independent Watch Brands
Alternative Displays


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How Much Time Do You Have Left? - New Special Edition Black PVD Coated Accurate and Decider Watches by Mr. Jones

How Much Time Do You Have Left? - New Special Edition Black PVD Coated Accurate and Decider Watches by Mr. Jones
How Much Time Do You Have Left? - New Special Edition Black PVD Coated Accurate and Decider Watches by Mr. JonesMr Jones Watches have produced two new special edition watches. Both models
feature black PVD coating which gives a hard-wearing, elegant finish.

These are serious watches for the serious times we find ourselves in. The black coating on the watch case is matched on the buckle and completed with a black leather strap and (what else!) black stitching.

Mr Jones Watches is the new cult watch brand from London. They believe that a watch should do more than just tell the time.

All the Mr Jones Watches are designed by Crispin Jones, they are genuine indie products entirely conceived and executed following a singular vision.

These models will be available for a limited period only.

How Much Time Do You Have Left? - New Special Edition Black PVD Coated Accurate and Decider Watches by Mr. Jones
How Much Time Do You Have Left? - New Special Edition Black PVD Coated Accurate and Decider Watches by Mr. Jones




This is a special edition of the most accurate wristwatch you can buy - the hour hand reads "remember", the minute hand "you will die".

The dial and rim of the glass are mirrored, so the wearer is reflected in the watch face.The Accurate is a link to the tradition of the memento mori - an object designed to remind us that life is brief and that we should seize the moment while we are here.

The Accurate is our best selling model and we're very pleased with how well this special edition looks on the wrist.

The Accurate, Special edition: $125

Product Page-->LINK

How Much Time Do You Have Left? - New Special Edition Black PVD Coated Accurate and Decider Watches by Mr. JonesHow Much Time Do You Have Left? - New Special Edition Black PVD Coated Accurate and Decider Watches by Mr. Jones




The New Decider helps you make decisions. As the seconds tick round the words “yes” and “no” are alternately displayed.

When you need to make a decision, simply glance at the watch for your answer. A magnifying dome sits just above the answer window to aid visibility.

The New Decider may not always give the right decision, but as Tony Soprano observes,“a wrong decision is better than indecision”.

The New Decider, Special edition: $145

Product page-->LINK

Other recently released Mr. Jones Watches featured below;

How Much Time Do You Have Left? - New Special Edition Black PVD Coated Accurate and Decider Watches by Mr. JonesMR. JONES - THE AVERAGE DAY

This watch eschews the conventional division of a day into 24 hours, instead it divides into units of median daily routine.

The dial shows a breakdown of what average people do on an average day, so you’re able to see what you yourself should - on average - be doing at any time.


How Much Time Do You Have Left? - New Special Edition Black PVD Coated Accurate and Decider Watches by Mr. JonesMr. Jones The Mantra

The Mantra alternates a very positive statement (e.g. "you are amazing") with a very negative one (e.g. "nobody likes you"). Every hour the watch displays one positive message and one negative message (the wedge that you read the statement through is also the hour hand).

Over time The Mantra makes the arrogant person more humble and makes the humble more confident.

How Much Time Do You Have Left? - New Special Edition Black PVD Coated Accurate and Decider Watches by Mr. JonesMr. Jones Original "The Decider"

The Decider is a watch that helps you make decisions: as the seconds tick round you see either the word "YES" or "NO" displayed on the watch face; when you need to make a decision you simply look at your watch for your answer.

How Much Time Do You Have Left? - New Special Edition Black PVD Coated Accurate and Decider Watches by Mr. JonesMR. JONES THE FUTURE

The Future is now! This watch displays a carpe diem message along with the time. The hour and minute hand make up the words “the future”, whilst the face alternately displays “is” and “now”. This watch is a handy reminder to the wearer to live in the present.

How Much Time Do You Have Left? - New Special Edition Black PVD Coated Accurate and Decider Watches by Mr. Jones MR. JONES THE WATCHER

Two characters on the watch enact a tiny choreographed play. They look all around, but never rest on the other’s gaze. The faces keep their tiny vigil on your wrist and are always ready to share a moment of micro-poetry whenever you look at your watch.

The two faces each have a small magnifying dome over them to aid visibility.

How Much Time Do You Have Left? - New Special Edition Black PVD Coated Accurate and Decider Watches by Mr. JonesMr. Jones LOVES ME

The design of this watch is inspired by the game of effeuiller la marguerite in which “loves me, loves me not” is spoken while plucking the petals of a flower.

Loves Me acts as a never-ending, animated flower that answers love dilemmas: pulling up the winding crown stops the mechanism and reveals cupid’s verdict.


How Much Time Do You Have Left? - New Special Edition Black PVD Coated Accurate and Decider Watches by Mr. JonesThe Original ACCURATE

How Much Time Do You Have Left? - New Special Edition Black PVD Coated Accurate and Decider Watches by Mr. Jones
MR. JONES MORE OR LESS

This watch offers you two ways of looking at the passing of time - around the circumference of the dial the words "one more, one less" slowly revolve. This presents a balanced way of viewing the passing of time in our lives.


Product Pages--> LINK

Related posts at The Watchismo Times;
Haunted Horology
All Memento Mori Stories
Mystery Dial Stories
Concept Watches
Artist Watch Stories
Designer Stories

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Helicoidal Timepieces of Philip Lütolf

Helicoidal Timepieces of Philip LütolfThe watch design has yet to be unveiled but Philip Lutolf, has just introduced a powerful new watch movement which uses helicoidal rather than spiral springs for power- thus generating unprecedented torque.

I just hope he'll push the technology to equally unprecidented design and functions. Time will tell...


Helicoidal Timepieces of Philip Lütolf
CAD preview of movement

Helicoidal Timepieces of Philip Lütolf
Lutolf recently wrote to Horomundi;

"I would like to tell you that with this movement we will have a new approach about horological mechanics. With the H-Power movement we talk now for the first time about “power”. The first question which crossed my mind, when I started to think about a new movement in horology was: “why does the watch industry never talk about power?” After some research about the history of movement mechanism, I find out that since 1475, all the movements were based on spiral spring. Why because this spring has a great advantage compared to the other springs: it has a relatively low constant torque. So this means that the spring is ideal to make tic-tac, but not so ideal to power complex mechanism. This is why I use a helicoïdal spring instead. The springs that I use in my prototypes deliver an impressive 10kg. So this watch is not about power reserve (even though it is over average), but about power. What is incredible when I go back through the innovation process of the last 3 years, is that when you are faced with raw power, you have to find logical (the turbo) and technical (Strongnium, bearing wheels) solutions to cope with the laws of physics. This is why this movement became so complex. You can also do an analogy with cars. To make a Ferrari the technical requirements (because of the consequences of the speed at 350 km/h) are far more advanced than a normal Fiat or Opel car. For the H-Power movement it’s the same. And like Pirelli said in it's famous advertising campaign: "whithout control, power is nothing". We are now in a process to finish our prototype phase. We hope to be through until the beginning of next year. This is why; you won’t see any dial or case yet (although the case and the dial is already finished). But if you want to be the first to see it when it is released you can subscribe to my newsletter on my website www.lutolfphilip.com."

via Horomundi
Philip Lütolf Website


See Also;
All Inventor Related Posts
All Concept Watch Posts

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Video Interview of Jean-François Ruchonnet of Cabestan

Video Interview of Jean-François Ruchonnet of Cabestan
An interview on the watchmaking video channel Time TV with the creator of one of most interesting watches of all time, the Cabestan Winch Tourbillon Vertical-->Video Link

Check out the new Cabestan site where the brand has gone into its first real production of a variety of styles (prices begin at $350,000)-->Website Link

And all previous posts of the Cabestan on The Watchismo Times-->Link


Video Interview of Jean-François Ruchonnet of CabestanVianney Halter's original Cabestan



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De Grisogono dG Meccanico Photos from Basel

De Grisogono dG Meccanico Photos from BaselSome real world pics I shot at Baselworld of the de Grisogono dG Meccanico with roller mechanical digital display. Read my original posting here-->Link

De Grisogono dG Meccanico Photos from Basel
De Grisogono dG Meccanico Photos from Basel
De Grisogono dG Meccanico Photos from Basel
De Grisogono dG Meccanico Photos from BaselGiant pustule crowns

De Grisogono dG Meccanico Photos from BaselOriginal Meccanico dG rendering

Note how they covered up the tubes in the finished watch. Likely due to lack of readability from angled viewing. The open rolling display is what made this watch interesting to me...

See Also;
All New 2008 Watch Posts-->Link



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Phinally! Photographs (and Video) of the HD3 Complication Bi-Axial Tourbillon "Vulcania"

I wish watch brands would release real photos along with their Computer renderings. Though it is likely the real watch isn't even completed when you first see them as CAD (above).

Until then, I gotta rely on fellow bloggers like these from ProfessionalWatches who shared this video and shots of the one of eleven HD3 Bi-Axial Tourbillons ($400,000) from the SIHH show in Geneva earlier this month.


Video->Link


For more about this Steampunk masterpiece, read my first feature of the HD3 Complication Vulcania designed by Fabrice Gonet here-->LINK





See Also;
All Tourbillon Posts-->Link
All New 2008 Watch Posts-->Link
All Steampunk Posts-->Link



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Domo arigato, Mr. Roboto - The Vintage Tin Robot Inspired "Mr. Roboto" Prototype from Azimuth

Domo arigato, Mr. Roboto - The Vintage Tin Robot Inspired I doubt Styx will be performing their nightmarishly bad 80s classic "Mr. Roboto" in Basel for the unveiling of the Azimuth's new timepiece but I'm sure they could use a gig...

Mr Roboto - Azimuth’s Hallmark Creation from the Mecha–1 BMF Collection

The Revival of the Tin Robot Generation

Fans of the vintage tin robot era can now embrace their fantasy of robotic warrior literally and get their first chance to see Azimuth’s Mr Roboto, prototype watch of the World’s First tin robot concept of the 1950s.


Domo arigato, Mr. Roboto - The Vintage Tin Robot Inspired Vintage 50s Lantern Tin Robots

Decades after World War II saw a proliferation of battery-operated tin robots. Originated from Japan, these whimsical creations demonstrate notions of human behavior. Their flying sparks and mechanical gestures captured the imagination of not just children but adults around the globe. Almost half a century later, original and replica tin robot toys have become a collector’s item.

The design of Mr Roboto was inspired by the Lantern Robot of the 1950s. Azimuth’s designers show that a timepiece’s practical functionality does not have to take a back seat to aesthetic visual designs. Witness the perfect marriage of ingenious design and user-friendly functions, this good-looker is set to be a head-turner at this year’s Basel show. A unique timepiece that transcends time, Mr Roboto aims to revive the passion of the tin robot generation of enthusiasts and enduring science fiction lovers.

Mr Roboto’s visual appeal embodies the full-flavor revival of vintage tin robotic spaceman. The placements lend for easy reading and a radical tin robot visual appearance. The left ‘eye’ is the hour register, right ‘eye’ comes with GMT indication, the nose region joint with the mouth region are the seconds and retrograde minutes placements respectively. Mr Roboto is powered by a modified ETA 2836-2 movement. The robust case is forged out of hardy steel blocks with a warm touch of bevelled edges at the sides of the tonneau shaped timepiece.

True to the name Azimuth, which means route taken by a traveller, Mr Roboto adds to the Azimuth’s Mecha-1 BMF collection of watches which is a synergy of avant-garde design and industrial machismo.

Listed international retail price for the iconic Mr Roboto watch is approximately 4,800.00 Swiss Francs ($4,800). Mr Roboto is available from September 2008.

Specifications:
Movement: ETA 2836-2 Modified Automatic Winding; 25 Jewels
Functions: GMT function; Hours register, Retrograde Minutes, Seconds

Case: 316L stainless steel with Torx drive cheese head tamper resistant screws, Bevelled edges at the sides of the tonneau shaped watch. Magnified hours and GMT functions in the form of convex ‘eyes’,

Dimension 43mm x 50mm with 24mm lugs. Water resistant to 50 meters.

via Timezone

Domo arigato, Mr. Roboto - The Vintage Tin Robot Inspired Mr. Roboto CAD renderings

Azimuth watches of previous years (below)

Domo arigato, Mr. Roboto - The Vintage Tin Robot Inspired 2007 Azimuth Chrono Gauge Mecha-1 BMF

Domo arigato, Mr. Roboto - The Vintage Tin Robot Inspired 2006 Azimuth Gauge Mecha

Domo arigato, Mr. Roboto - The Vintage Tin Robot Inspired 20007 Azimuth Round 1 Bi-Retrograde


Domo arigato, Mr. Roboto - The Vintage Tin Robot Inspired 2007 Azimuth SP-1 Mechanique concept watch.


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