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Watchismo Times

THE WATCHISMO TIMES WATCH BLOG A reliquary of obscure timepieces from bygone eras as well as the cutting-edge watch designs of today.

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The Latest Cabestan Photographs

The Latest Cabestan PhotographsI've been waiting to see more extensive photos of the Cabestan by Vianney Halter and Jean-François Ruchonnet of the DMC Group. So thanks to SuitbertW who just shot these for The Purists. The Cabestan has yet to go into production (as far as I know) and these prototypes seem to be the only existing specimens so far.

The rolling barreled displays are powered by chain links and fusee wound by a winding winch!

Mechanical specs below photos;

The Latest Cabestan Photographs
The Latest Cabestan Photographs
The Latest Cabestan Photographs
The Latest Cabestan Photographs
A spectacular architecture
(via EuropaStar)

This really spectacular architecture seems to be absolutely original. The mechanical design of the Cabestan, including its tourbillon, is totally transversal. The indications (hour, minute, seconds, and power reserve) appear on the cylinders located at the four “corners” of the watch.
Starting from the lower left, we find the barrel, which transmits its driving power to the movement by the intermediary of a chain. This chain is connected to a second cylinder, at the upper left, made up of one part of a fusee (placed horizontally as opposed to the traditional fusees that are always vertical), and the other of the cylindrical power reserve indicator (a total of 72 hours).

Still on the upper end, but this time on the right, we find two cylinders next to each other, providing the perfectly readable hours and minutes. In the lower right hand corner, we can see the tourbillon, which is also placed vertically and is directly linked to another cylinder, which quite logically gives the seconds indication, as the tourbillon makes one rotation per minute.
This completely original mechanical movement, with manual winding, a fusee and a tourbillon, integrates six ball bearings into its operation. It is also water-resistant to 30 metres. The entire movement is visible from above and from the side, under a double sapphire crystal (“Trimaran” model) with three recessed and curved sides, taking the form of a “hood”, all in a very sturdy design.

Winding the watch and setting the hour and minutes are effected using a winding stem in the form of a movable “winch” that links directly to one of the small “capstans” that are found at the four exterior angles of the case: at the upper left, it acts directly on the fusee and, by the intermediary of the chain, allows the barrel to be wound; at the upper right, it acts on the minute cylinder which is connected to that of the hours. The two other small “capstans” are only there for decoration and to complete the aesthetics of the case. Once the small winch is used, it is easily stored in the buckle of the watch’s bracelet.

Related Posts;
The Other Cabestan
Jacob & Co. Quenttin
HD3 Vulcania
Tag Heuer V4 Beltdrive
Vianney Halter Trio
Vianney Halter Antiqua


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Wheel of Fortune - Opus 7 by Andreas Strehler

Wheel of Fortune - Opus 7 by Andreas StrehlerThese are the biggest couple of weeks in the watchmaking world. The yearly horological orgy and pissing contest is back for the 2007 BaselWorld Watch Fair and the Geneva SIHH.

With that said, I'll be featuring anything particularly interesting in the coming weeks so stay tuned...

For starters, one of the more anticipated models to come out is the secretive Opus 7 project with Andreas Strehler. An unexpected choice for watchmaker partly due his previous minimalistic creations. At first glance, the Opus dial appears to have flying buttresses made of metallic squid. Upon further examination, you learn that the simple but complex system for its three alternating functions. One press of the pusher within the crown displays the hours, a second, the minutes, and a third push shows the power reserve up to 60 hours. All this is exhibited on just one disc with only two rows of digits. Each display is separate from one another so glancing down is out of the question, you gotta take the time to spin this wheel of fortune.

Wheel of Fortune - Opus 7 by Andreas StrehlerOne of only 50 models produced. The case is 45mm wide of rhodium plated white gold.

Wheel of Fortune - Opus 7 by Andreas Strehler
Wheel of Fortune - Opus 7 by Andreas Strehler
Wheel of Fortune - Opus 7 by Andreas Strehler
Wheel of Fortune - Opus 7 by Andreas Strehler
Wheel of Fortune - Opus 7 by Andreas Strehler
Related posts;
The Opus Time Bandit
Opus 6 by Gruebel Forsey

Links;
Harry Winston
Opus 5 by Felix Baumgartner
Opus 3 by Vianney Halter


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X-Ray of the MB&F Horological Machine #2

X-Ray of the MB&F Horological Machine #2Look into the innards of the HM2 (Horological Machine #2) by Max Busser & Friends. Due out later in the year (not at Basel World), this specifically designed movement by a relatively unknown watchmaker handpicked by Max and he is keeping him secret (as well as the watch functions) until the release date nears. He also added, "The case will not mimic the movement but you will understand the architectural link between both of them."

Max further explained, "Eric Giroud, the designer with whom I develop my creations, and I designed the first version of HM2 by April 2005 (I was still at that time at the head of Harry Winston) but we scrapped everything and started again end of 2005. This movement and watch is the result. The movement you see is functional and has been working for the last four weeks. We expect to deliver the first watches end of the year. You can see by the shape of the movement that it does not resemble HM1 at all. That is part of the philosophy of our Concept Label – each year (if possible) we will come out with a completely different piece of horology in shape and functions. But one point is crucial: the movement will always be designed specifically for the watch. I can also tell you that the Master watchmaker who developed it is virtually unknown to the public (maybe to some hardcore aficionados) and so I am very proud to promote his virtually unknown talent."

X-Ray of the MB&F Horological Machine #2
X-Ray of the MB&F Horological Machine #2I welcome any thoughts or projections of what this movement is capable of. Email me

X-Ray of the MB&F Horological Machine #2
X-Ray of the MB&F Horological Machine #2The original HM1

Related;
MB&F HM1-->Link
MB&F Website-->Link


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Urwerk Time Bandit - The Opus That Never Was

An original sketch of what might have been the Opus V. Codenamed 'Time Bandit' by Urwerk's Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner, it was an overwhelmingly difficult mechanical concept in which the wearer would engage the slot-machine style lever to activate the spinning digits and form the correct time on the side of the watch.

Even better, Felix Baumgartner describes the conundrum to Wei Koh of Horomundi/Revolution;

"You had to arm it like a slot machine. The time indications were placed on cylinders, but the watch did not show the time until you armed it. Once you released the arming lever these cylinders would turn until they stopped precisely at the right time. It was a completely crazy idea. It was really more complicated than a minute repeater; in fact, the base of this watch was essentially a minute repeater. You had a time telling base caliber and then a system of snail cams and racks like that in a minute repeater. When you armed the watch you would essentially be arming something similar to as strike barrel. But instead of translating the time into hammer strikes on gongs they would operate this one arm bandit like indication. And this indication involved a whole additional mechanism. When conceptualizing the watch we were joking that we were gambling with time, because we didn’t know if it was possible to create in a little over one year. This proved right."


Via Horomundi-->Link
The Complete Urwerk Story-->Link

The actual & highly successful Opus V
Related Urwerk Posts-->Link

Ian Skellern's video below
showing off the action of the watch


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Hautlence HLs Collection

Hautlence HLs CollectionThe second model from Hautlence (previously featured here), the brand new independent Swiss brand will display their new HLs collection at the upcoming BaselWorld watch fair. With similarities such as the mechanically visible retrograde minutes and a jump hour display that is blurred until the correct hour enters the porthole. The case has been streamlined and is available in editions of 88 of titanium, white gold and pink gold.

Hautlence HLs Collection
Hautlence HLs CollectionI'm glad to see they didn't cut corners this time.

Hautlence HLs CollectionThe original HL Hautlence

Hautlence-->Link
via Timezone

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Sarpaneva Supernova

Sarpaneva Supernova
Finnish Watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva is on the verge of his own stellar explosion with his latest watch called 'Supernova'. An extraordinary evolution in style, complication and design spawned from his Loiste collection. Other than the blued moonphase, the handmade hardened stainless steel watch creates the illusion of a black & white image. A modified ETA automatic movement with his trademark 'Turbini' winding mass visable from the caseback. With the rotor opposing the direction of cutaway view, the winding of the watch creates a kaleidoscope of spinning blades. The artistically skeletonized dial reveals negative space with stylish precision while perfectly blending the cog-style case into the depths of its spiny machined gauges.

An edition of only ten watches priced at 12,500 Euros.

It will be publicly introduced at the upcoming BaselWorld show in Switzerland.

These prototype photos are by Horlographer Harry Tan of WatchingHorology. Please see his extensive photo-montage of the Supernova here--> Link

Sarpaneva Watches--> Link

Sarpaneva SupernovaSeconds register

Sarpaneva SupernovaBlued moonphase

Sarpaneva Supernova
Sarpaneva Supernova
Sarpaneva SupernovaTurbini

Related posts;
Sarpaneva Loiste II
Eero Aarnio Prototype



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New Azimuth Chrono Gauge Mecha-1 BMF

New Azimuth Chrono Gauge Mecha-1 BMFThe latest of the Azimuth Chrono Gauge Mecha-1 BMF series. Can't afford a $250,000 Richard Mille? You might consider this $2900 wristular dashboard chronograph complete with an arching direct jump hour display powered by a modified Valjoux 7750 automatic movement.

New Azimuth Chrono Gauge Mecha-1 BMFPreviously featured Azimuth Gauge Mecha

New Azimuth Chrono Gauge Mecha-1 BMFAlso just unveiled, the Azimuth Round 1 Bi-Retrograde. The top arc indicates the minutes while the bottom arc displays the hours with hands that snap back to their starting positions after reaching the ends of their respective cycles via a modified ETA 2836-2 mechanical movement


New Azimuth Chrono Gauge Mecha-1 BMFAzimuth is also annoucing their new SP-1 Mechanique concept watch. Nicknamed the ‘spaceship watch’ with a rendition of Earth, a globular decorative feature that makes one rotation every 60 seconds. A jumping hour display powered by a Unitas 6497 movement finely finished in Cotes de Geneve stripes, a rotating disc, framed by the short end of the 3-dimensional minute hand, is a jumping hour complication. The broad minute hand comes finished with a skeletonized outline that resembles a space shuttle hurtling across the universe. Link

Related posts;
Richard Mille
Mecha-lomaniacal

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Hatching Astronomic Sphere Clock by Vacheron Constantin

Hatching Astronomic Sphere Clock by Vacheron Constantin'L’Esprit des Cabinotiers' - The one-of-a-kind mystery clock that literally emerges from a hatching sphere - Created for the 250th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin.

The incubating clockwork consists of a golden sphere engraved by hand according to the sky chart drawn by Robert de Vaugondy (1723-1786), cartographer and geographer to Louis XV and creator of two large globes, one celestial and the other terrestrial. The sphere is composed of eight mechanical petals symbolizing the lotus flower, which may be progressively opened by means of an extremely sophisticated spring mechanism. The keys to the mystery and its revelation are known exclusively to the one owner of the object. The automata flower delicately reveals its heart, a timepiece endowed with a wide range of functions and complications (detailed below photos). Sold at auction for nearly $2,000,000.


Hatching Astronomic Sphere Clock by Vacheron Constantin
Hatching Astronomic Sphere Clock by Vacheron Constantin
Hatching Astronomic Sphere Clock by Vacheron Constantin
Hatching Astronomic Sphere Clock by Vacheron Constantin
Hatching Astronomic Sphere Clock by Vacheron Constantin
Hatching Astronomic Sphere Clock by Vacheron Constantin
Hatching Astronomic Sphere Clock by Vacheron Constantin
Hatching Astronomic Sphere Clock by Vacheron Constantin
Hatching Astronomic Sphere Clock by Vacheron Constantin

Technical specifications

GLOBE

Materials: 18-carat 750 pink gold (5N)
Diameter: 220 mm
Form and construction: Globe divided into a fixed half-sphere and 8 petals opening by means of 16 connecting rods linked to the telescopic shaft (on tiny sapphire balls) carrying the timepiece, driven by the mechanical motor housed within the base.
Finishing: The outside of the globe is in natural polished gold and features a depiction of the position of the stars on September 17th 1755 (date of the first document mentioning the existence of the House of Vacheron), decorated with a hand engraving inspired by the work of Robert de Vaugondy. The inside, enhanced by slender polished gold ribs, is finely satin-brushed.

CLOCK

Materials: 18-carat 750 pink gold (5N), Corundum
Diameter and thickness: 145 mm, 70 mm
Shape and construction: A cylinder and 2 sapphire crystal domes connected by a frame in 5N pink gold. An openworked support links the clock to the telescopic shaft at the centre of the sphere. Two holes for winding and time-setting are drilled into the rear dome.
Glasses: Sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both faces.

DIALS

Dial material: 18-carat yellow gold
Material for appliques: 18-carat pink gold (5N)
Dial description: Silvered with special 250th anniversary hand-guilloch? motif, minute disc encircling the dial in silvered 18-carat gold with engraved indications. ?Grand feu? miniature enamelled 12-segment outer disc.

Hatching Astronomic Sphere Clock by Vacheron Constantin

MOVEMENT

Indications & functions :
1. Hour on 12-hour display
2. Minutes
3. Deadbeat seconds
4. Hour on 24-hour display
5. Power reserve
6. Name of the day
7. Date of the day (perpetual)
8. Name of the month
9. Number of the year within the leap-year cycle
10. Equation of time
11. Age of the moon
12. Phases of the moon
13. Temperature
14. Astronomical calendar giving the position of the sun according to the Gregorian calendar. This mechanism was built on the basis of calculations by the mathematician Charles Etienne Louis CAMUS (1699-1768) and the watchmaking mechanical engineer Antide JANVIER (1751-1835).
15. Hours and quarters striking automatically in passing and on request, with the possibility of preventing the automatic striking.

Other technical characteristics:

Energy: Mechanical, twin-barrel, manual key winding
Regulating organs: Mono-metallic balance. Isochronous balance-spring ending in a Phillips curve, micrometric index (patented by Vacheron Constantin in 1884), Straight-line lever escapement with constant force system applied each second to the escape-wheel. This system precisely measures out the energy required for the regulator to perform 5 vibrations of an ideal and invariable amplitude.
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: Over seven days

Main dimensions:
Caging diameter: 125 mm
Total diameter: 129 mm
Total thickness: 41 mm


via The Purists --> Link
Quarter Millennieum of Vacheron Constantin auction --> Link

Related posts;
Christiaan van der Klauuw Astronomical Watches --> Link
Sethosphere Globe Clock --> Link


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Concept Turned Reality - Vulcania by HD3 Complication

Concept Turned Reality - Vulcania by HD3 Complication
A former concept watch called the Vulcania has become flesh and bone. Designed by Fabrice Gonet for the three year old brand HD3 Complication. A trio-collective started by Jorg Hysek where he, Gonet and Valerie Ursenbacher design watches from their wildest imaginations.

The Vulcania name derives from the Jules Verne Steampunk hero, Captain Nemo and the island which was his home port. Like many of his contemporaries, Gonet has deconstructed the watch with its functions in a deeply set three-dimensional display, separating each gauge as a tribute to vintage naval technology both fictional (Nautilus) and fact (Turn-of-the-century mechanical submarines). The hours are determined from the rotating wheel cylinders on the left, the minutes on a disc like a ship's Chadburn Telegraph, a sextant style power reserve indicator, porthole loupe date window, and highlighted by the tilted bi-axial tourbillon. All the watch functions can be seen through its front and rear sapphire glass panels, side-viewing porthole, and the back plate has an etched map with its coordinates engraved on it. The case is titanium and platinum.

I've been pacing like an expecting father for this baby to come out! So pass out the cigars to the lucky few - and by few, I mean only 11 Vulcania will be made. The coming out party will be in Geneva Switzerland at the SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) in April. The price? If you have to ask...

Down Periscope!

HD3 Complication --> Link

Concept Turned Reality - Vulcania by HD3 Complication
Concept Turned Reality - Vulcania by HD3 ComplicationClose-up of rear plate with map/coordinate engraving

Concept Turned Reality - Vulcania by HD3 Complication
Related stories;
Maximillan Busser Horological Machine #1
Vianney Halter's Antiqua & Trio & Cabestan
Jacob & Co. Quenttin
Jorg Hysek Raptor
Hautlence



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TO BOLDLY GO WHERE NO WATCH HAS GONE BEFORE!

TO BOLDLY GO WHERE NO WATCH HAS GONE BEFORE!
Great article by Nick Foulkes from FT about the current 'Garage Watchmakers' of todays exclusive independent boutique brands like MB&F, Urwerk, Richard Mille, Vianney Halter, Hautlence, FP Journe, HD3, and Greubel Forsey.

Article PDF-->Here


via Ian Skellern @ OurWorld
The Latest Cabestan PhotographsWheel of Fortune - Opus 7 by Andreas StrehlerX-Ray of the MB&F Horological Machine #2Urwerk Time Bandit - The Opus That Never WasHautlence HLs CollectionSarpaneva SupernovaNew Azimuth Chrono Gauge Mecha-1 BMFHatching Astronomic Sphere Clock by Vacheron ConstantinConcept Turned Reality - Vulcania by HD3 ComplicationTO BOLDLY GO WHERE NO WATCH HAS GONE BEFORE!

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