2009 is a jubilee year in the history of Christophe Claret SA, a milestone that its owner wished to symbolize by releasing an exclusive timepiece produced under the company brand name and distributed by the finest retailers worldwide.
The DualTow is a faithful reflection of the watchmaking philosophy inherent to Christophe Claret. Housing several inventions including one patented innovation, this single-pusher planetary-gear chronograph with striking mechanism and tourbillon expresses a combination of technical excellence and sophisticated aesthetics.
It also embodies the merging of the wide variety of skills united within the company, since almost all operations involved in making it – from movement development to the machining of the sapphire dial-bridge – have been performed in-house.
Representing a horological embodiment of power and energy, the DualTow is an ultra-refined machine for measuring time. With its original “belt” display of the hours and minutes, the model features an ultra-technical and classically elegant appearance.
Technically speaking, the mechanical hand-wound CC20A movement boasts an impressive number of innovations and stylistic refinement.
One particularly striking example is a gong that sounds each time the chronograph pusher is activated, in a playful allusion to the expertise of the Manufacture in the field of striking watches.
SINGLE-PUSHER PLANETARY-GEAR CHRONOGRAPH WITH STRIKING MECHANISM MOVEMENT:
Number of parts: 582
Number of jewels: 73
Power Reserve: Over 50 hours
Barrels: Twin barrels placed in parallel
Tourbillon: - Swiss lever escapement - Balance oscillation frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph) - Tourbillon rotation frequency : 1 revolution/minute
Functions: - Hour and minute display on belts - Single-pusher planetary-gear chronograph - Mechanical striking mechanism sounding each change of function (start, stop and reset) - 12-hour, 60-minute and 60-second chronograph counters - Operating mode indicator - Mechanical hand-wound movement - Power-Reserve display
Case: - Watch glasses specially designed and manufactured to ensure an ergonomic fit - Rectangular, curving; fitted with exclusive mobile lugs enabling a perfect fit on the wrist - Dimensions : 42.75 x 48.20 mm (not counting the lugs) - Water Resistant: 3 ATM or 30 meters
Display belts: In rubber with transferred hour and minute numerals
Flange: Flange with chronograph seconds markers cut from five different stones
Dynamometric crown and pusher: Rubber-molded
Dial: Sapphire crystal serving as a bridge for the chronograph counters and featuring transferred chronograph hour and minute counters, chronograph operating mode, Christophe Claret brand name and ‘Swiss Made’ indication
Buckle: Triple-blade folding clasp with decorative covers and an innovative system enabling comfort-enhancing 10 mm wrist extension
Series: Limited edition of 68 timepieces; each unique
LACHAUX-DE-FONDS, Switzerland – Building on the launch of the Chapter One in 2008, Maîtres du Temps now presents a limited edition of 11 watches with jet-black dial, moonphase and day of week rollers set in a white gold case.
It explains the development of a $400,000 watch by a team of three master watchmakers: Peter Speake-Marin, Roger Dubuis and Christophe Claret.
Timeless elegance is evoked by the juxtaposition of elegant white gold hands against the black dial and of the bright red of the counterpoised chronograph second hand against the engine-turned sun-ray guilloche of the sub-dials. The ethereal beauty of the moon and stars against a dark night sky belies the high-tech nature of its anodized aluminum roller—a roller visually and technically balanced by the day of the week roller at the opposite end of the long, sweeping compound curves of the stunningly finished case.
The highly polished tourbillon literally explodes from the dark dial in a highly reflective burst of light, some of which streams in through the opening to the day roller and sweeps up from under the tourbillon, adding to the three-dimensionality of the spectacle. Amid the indication-rich nature of the dial, the tourbillon cage and bridge stand out as if under a bright spotlight on a semi-darkened stage.
“To my eye, where the silver-dialed Chapter One leans in the direction of a more classic look, this black-dialed version feels sportier, faster. And I particularly like the way that the black of the dial continues into the dark night sky of the moon roller above and the black day roller below,” says Mr. Steven Holtzman, founder of Maîtres du Temps.
Day of Week Roller
Developed by a collaboration of three of the world’s greatest watchmakers, Mr. Christophe Claret,Mr. Roger Dubuis, and Mr. Peter Speake-Marin, Chapter One features a world-first combination of complications: tourbillon, mono-pusher chronograph, retrograde date, retrograde GMT, and two rolling bars at 6 o’clock and 12 o’clock, indicating the day of the week and phase of the moon, respectively. The dial reveals central coaxial hours, minutes, and chronograph 60-second
counter; tourbillon and day of the week roller at 6 o’clock; retrograde GMT at 9 o’clock; 60-minute chronograph counter and precision moon phase roller at 12 o’clock; and retrograde date at 3 o’clock.
Chapter One is imbued with the intoxicating fusion of Mr. Claret’s undisputed mastery of high-end complications, Mr.Dubuis’ rich lifetime of experience in haute horlogerie, and Mr.Speake-Marin’s unparalleled ability to bridge the very best of both traditional and modern watchmaking.
The ease of both reading and adjusting Chapter One’s many indications disguises the fact that this is an extremely complex movement that has been handcrafted and meticulously assembled from 558 components. Efficiently transmitting power to the two rollers and ensuring that they work simultaneously with the time, date, GMT, and chronograph was just one of the immense technical challenges met and conquered.
About Maîtres du Temps
Maîtres du Temps is a pantheon where teams of independent master watchmakers at the very pinnacle of haute horlogerie collaborate to develop innovative, interesting, and very exclusive timepieces. Founded by Mr. Steven Holtzman and based in Switzerland, Maîtres du Temps crafts limited-series mechanical masterpieces, each the synthesis of the experience, art, and techniques of the Masters who create it. For more information, please visit www.maitresdutemps.com.
$500,000 Invisible Watch - Guy Ellia 'Tourbillon Zephir' by Christophe Claret
Published: May 25,
2007 | 12:51
Famed movement designer Christophe Claret has teamed up with the exclusive French brand Guy Ellia for this unusual see-thru sapphire cased wristwatch. The mechanism including the tourbillon appear to float in-between the transparent plates allowing all motion to be viewed. Taking the skeletonized look to a new level, 'Ghost-inized'. See more at Claret's website-->Link as well as an animated video of the watch. Selling a bit over a half million dollars (390,000 Euros), I've heard that six have been sold already.
Claret is the man behind the Opus IV and the Jean Dunand Shabaka-->Link