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THE WATCHISMO TIMES WATCH BLOG A reliquary of obscure timepieces from bygone eras as well as the cutting-edge watch designs of today.

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Stepan Sarpaneva Presents Redesigned Gold Korona K3 Moonphase at Baselworld

Stepan Sarpaneva Presents Redesigned Gold Korona K3 Moonphase at BaselworldSARPANEVA KORONA RG (rose gold) AND KORONA WG (white gold)

It was quite a while since the first Stepan Sarpaneva watch, the TIME TRAMP was created, using a pinion gear from a Harley Davidson motorcycle. At that time no one knew what the future would hold for watches created in Finland, certainly not for mechanical watches created with a different vision and such a distinctive Finnish design pedigree. Now, some 10 years later, Sarpaneva Watches has started to establish itself as the renegade alternative to the ‘Swiss-only’ mentality, offering collectors and watch lovers something new and different from the rest whilst keeping all the best qualities of watchmaking tradition. For Stepan this is definately something worth celebrating in an exclusive manner.

2009: THE FIRST SARPANEVA WATCHES IN 18-CARAT RED OR WHITE GOLD

For the past 10 years, the Sarpaneva workshop has been creating a name for itself producing unusual, limited series of watches – exclusively in different types of steel. There were a number of reasons behind this concept.

Stepan Sarpaneva: “I have always liked, even preferred the ‘essence’ of steel cased watches, as it fits with my desire for simplicity and the beauty you can find in essential and basic materials and designs – whether inspired by man made or natural elements. With my hobby and passion for motorcycles from an early age, steel is also a material I know and love intimately. So I never felt that steel was less interesting or less valuable to me than any other metal.

So what was behind this new development for the workshop?

Stepan Sarpaneva: “One reason was that I made my first watch exactly 10 years ago: the TIME TRAMP – and back then I never thought it might mark the beginning of where I am today. In addition a number of clients have been asking me regularly for a gold watch, so all this meant that the time was ripe for it now. Another reason was a more emotional one for me. My father designed jewelry, and in the back of my mind I still have plans to also create some jewelry, either stand alone items or combined with watches. So that means that the next step has got to be working in precious metals of course.”

A NEW CASE DESIGN

However, this didn’t mean that the new KORONA would simply be the same watchcase, merely in gold. Stepan took the decision to review the design; the case, with its slightly smaller 42 mm diameter compared to the previous KORONA K3 models of 44 mm, is just right for today’s tastes. The evocative scallops that are such a part of the exterior edges visual look are now cut right through the case from front bezel to back bezel, making the case even more distinctive. This, in combination with the skeleton dial has the effect of making the watch appear bolder and more uniquely Finnish in its design imagery, without it being perceived as either too large or too small.

Stepan Sarpaneva: “With this new, fuller case design, the lugs have also undergone some slight changes that allow me to use a shaped strap. This means the case and strap form a fluid line, giving a real visual and physical continuity between the watchcase and strap design, resulting in a truly relaxed fit. You can almost forget you have it on.”

Stepan Sarpaneva Presents Redesigned Gold Korona K3 Moonphase at Baselworld
A WORLD WITH THREE MOONS

The Moonphase indicator of the KORONA RG and WG, with its eternally somber face has become a hallmark of the entire series of KORONA watches, and perhaps Finland itself.

Stepan Sarpaneva: “You know, here in Finland, we are not a very extrovert kind of people. Maybe it has to do with our past history, as well as the cold combined with the extremely long winter nights and the extremely long summer days. You have to learn to remain in balance. So everyone here floats around with an aura of slight melancholy – I don’t know how else to describe it. So for me a smiling moon was out of the question, also because a Moonphase smiling all the time is too much like those yellow smiley faces they put in emails. This Moon has an aura of aristocratic melancholy; with a bit of indecision as to whether he is basically happy or sad in nature. The expression of the Moon on my watches just ‘is’ – same as the Finnish people here.”

Creating these Moonphase discs is as complex as the realization of the watch’s Moonphase mechanism. The first dilemma concerns the dimensions, as the face is only 0,4 mm thick yet contains four levels of elevation. The first step requires creating a drawing six times actual size, followed by cutting a rough model from plate stock, one piece corresponding to each level of elevation of the oversized model. These parts are then fixed together to form the model plate for the pantograph, which will mill the various shapes into a small piece of copper the actual size of the Moonphase. This copper version, which will serve later as an electrode, is then cleaned up and ‘fine-tuned’ by a master engraver before the contours are electro etched into a steel-pressing block, thus creating a negative image of the face. Last but not least, the eyes are modeled by hand into the negative image and the whole is finished by a master engraver and diamond polished before undergoing hardening, followed by yet another polishing.

The Moonphase of the watch requires two of these Moon faces to be created, but the winding rotor, responsible for helping automatically wind the watch with each movement of the wearer’s arm, also needed special treatment in order to be in harmony with the dial side view.

Stepan Sarpaneva: “Since the KORONA RG and WG are such special Moonphase watches, I felt that the rotor also had to be part of this special atmosphere. So I added another Moonphase on the rotor. It has the added effect of providing additional weight for the rotor, and it is always trapped in orbit around the watch’s center. Here again you sense my custom motorcycle building background – I see no reason why even the more functional parts can’t be attractive and nice to look at. So in total this is a Moon phase watch that has actually has three Moons on it, all in the same 18-carat gold as the case of the watch, either red or white”.

DIAL & ROTOR

The skeletonized dial and rotor in every KORONA RG and WG look so simple that one can easily forget the amount of work involved in producing them. Once the dial and rotor have been correctly sized in all dimensions, 260 individual holes need to be cut out of the dial, whose thickness measures a mere 0.3 mm. After this, each individual hole must be filed and finished, from both sides, therefore even the side that you will never see.

Stepan Sarpaneva: “This seems like a small thing, but if you don’t do it this way there is chance that light will catch in some holes and not in others, producing an uneven visual effect.”

The production of a completely assembled skeletonized dial and rotor, with all the additional parts and Moon faces installed takes a total of about a week of work to complete.

Stepan Sarpaneva Presents Redesigned Gold Korona K3 Moonphase at Baselworld
MOVEMENT

The watch’s base caliber is a new independent movement from the well-known and highly regarded Swiss manufactory Soprod S.A., who also provide movements and watches to several haute horlogerie brands today.

The base caliber is then further modified at the Sarpaneva workshop and fitted with new parts, all of which are manufactured in Finland. The entire movement is also re-finished, starting from the main plate, which receives gilding after hand finishing. The entire Moonphase mechanism
gearing and parts are all designed and made in Helsinki as well. It includes quite a few parts with very small tolerances to insure perfect functioning, the smallest of which being only
0.15 mm thickness.

Different from other Moonphase calibers, the Sarpaneva design features correction via the crown, thus eliminating the need for any pushers on the case, greatly simplifying any correction if necessary. However, it should be noted that if the watch is regularly wound, the next correction for the Moonphase would only be in another 122 years!

Although the workshop is small and independent, the philosophy is for long-term results. For this reason a well-tested caliber was chosen for which there are always spare parts available, or parts that can be manufactured right in the Helsinki atelier.

SCOPE OF DELIVERY

For the new gold watches a special presentation box was designed and created by Stepan Sarpaneva, and is also manufactured in Finland. This wood and aluminum creation, embodying all the stylistic directness and raw energy of the timepieces, are also made by hand in small numbers that follow the limited production of the KORONA. An instruction booklet and guarantee certificate is included with each timepiece, covering a guarantee period of two years from the date of purchase.

SARPANEVA WATCHES

Sarpaneva Watches is Finland’s only mechanical watchmaking company, solely dedicated to the design and production of mechanical wristwatches. Located in the country’s capital Helsinki, the workshop was started in 2003 by Stepan Sarpaneva after years of training in both Finland and Switzerland that covered watchmaking in all its varieties, including hands on experience at several of Switzerland’s major houses with highly specialized work on complications. The Sarpaneva workshop’s philosophy towards watchmaking is firmly anchored within Stepan Sarpaneva’s deep desire to express himself in more ways then solely through the purely mechanical side of watchmaking. For this reason his firm’s foundation is to unite a long-term and timeless visual design concept together with that of high quality mechanical watchmaking. Unlike the majority of brands on the market today, this is a fundamental aspect that sets Sarpaneva Watches apart from the rest; here is one man with the ability to create novel wristwatch designs as well as unite them with the mechanical know-how of a master watchmaker.

Stepan Sarpaneva Presents Redesigned Gold Korona K3 Moonphase at BaselworldPhotos by Ian Skellern at 2009 Baselworld for Horomundi

Stepan Sarpaneva Presents Redesigned Gold Korona K3 Moonphase at Baselworld
For more information about Stepan Sarpaneva
Sarpaneva - Finland, Family & Design

Sarpaneva Watches Website

Related Sarpaneva Posts at The Watchismo Times;
Korona K3 Black Moon
Korona K3 Red Moon
Korona K2 & K3 Moonphase
Korona K1
Blue Steel Supernova
Stainless Steel Supernova

Sarpaneva Loiste II
Eero Aarnio Prototype



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Real Life Photos of the Concord C1 Quantum Gravity Tourbillon



Finally, no more slick CAD teasers, the real deal, Concord's C1 Quantum Gravity live in Basel.

Thanks to Watchluxus


Video Link of the new tourbillon bi-axial from BNB Concept for the Concord C1 Quantum Gravity timepiece is placed and alive.




Christophe Claret Introduces his DualTow Display Belt Single Pusher Planetary Chronograph with Striking Mechanism

Christophe Claret Introduces his DualTow Display Belt Single Pusher Planetary Chronograph with Striking MechanismChristophe Claret's Dual Tow watch introduced today at Baselworld
Two conveyor belts rotate displaying the time. (there seems to be a theme this year!)

Christophe Claret Introduces his DualTow Display Belt Single Pusher Planetary Chronograph with Striking Mechanism

From the press release (via Horomundi):

2009 is a jubilee year in the history of Christophe Claret SA, a milestone that its owner wished to symbolize by releasing an exclusive timepiece produced under the company brand name and distributed by the finest retailers worldwide.

The DualTow is a faithful reflection of the watchmaking philosophy inherent to Christophe Claret. Housing several inventions including one patented innovation, this single-pusher planetary-gear chronograph with striking mechanism and tourbillon expresses a combination of technical excellence and sophisticated aesthetics.

It also embodies the merging of the wide variety of skills united within the company, since almost all operations involved in making it – from movement development to the machining of the sapphire dial-bridge – have been performed in-house.

Representing a horological embodiment of power and energy, the DualTow is an ultra-refined machine for measuring time. With its original “belt” display of the hours and minutes, the model features an ultra-technical and classically elegant appearance.

Technically speaking, the mechanical hand-wound CC20A movement boasts an impressive number of innovations and stylistic refinement.

One particularly striking example is a gong that sounds each time the chronograph pusher is activated, in a playful allusion to the expertise of the Manufacture in the field of striking watches.

Christophe Claret Introduces his DualTow Display Belt Single Pusher Planetary Chronograph with Striking Mechanism



Christophe Claret Introduces his DualTow Display Belt Single Pusher Planetary Chronograph with Striking Mechanism


DUALTOW Specs:

SINGLE-PUSHER PLANETARY-GEAR CHRONOGRAPH WITH STRIKING MECHANISM MOVEMENT:

Number of parts: 582

Number of jewels: 73

Power Reserve: Over 50 hours

Barrels: Twin barrels placed in parallel

Tourbillon: - Swiss lever escapement
- Balance oscillation frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
- Tourbillon rotation frequency : 1 revolution/minute

Functions: - Hour and minute display on belts
- Single-pusher planetary-gear chronograph
- Mechanical striking mechanism sounding each change of function (start, stop and reset)
- 12-hour, 60-minute and 60-second chronograph counters
- Operating mode indicator
- Mechanical hand-wound movement
- Power-Reserve display

EXTERIOR:

Case: - Watch glasses specially designed and manufactured to ensure an ergonomic fit
- Rectangular, curving; fitted with exclusive mobile lugs enabling a perfect fit on the wrist
- Dimensions : 42.75 x 48.20 mm (not counting the lugs)
- Water Resistant: 3 ATM or 30 meters

Display belts: In rubber with transferred hour and minute numerals

Flange: Flange with chronograph seconds markers cut from five different stones

Dynamometric crown and pusher: Rubber-molded

Dial: Sapphire crystal serving as a bridge for the chronograph counters and featuring transferred chronograph hour and minute counters, chronograph operating mode, Christophe Claret brand name and ‘Swiss Made’ indication

Buckle: Triple-blade folding clasp with decorative covers and an innovative system enabling comfort-enhancing 10 mm wrist extension

Series: Limited edition of 68 timepieces; each unique


Christophe Claret website

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Watches over $100,000


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New Releases from Greubel Forsey - Invention Piece No. 3 & Double Tourbillon Technique

New Releases from Greubel Forsey - Invention Piece No. 3 & Double Tourbillon TechniqueDouble Tourbillon Technique
  • Mechanical hand-wound movement,
  • Calibre GF 02s Double Tourbillon 30°,
  • Hours and minutes display,
  • Outer Tourbillon 4-minute rotation indicator,
  • Inner Tourbillon 60 Second rotation indicator, power-reserve indicator.
New Releases from Greubel Forsey - Invention Piece No. 3 & Double Tourbillon TechniquePhoto - Ian Skellern via Horomundi


New Releases from Greubel Forsey - Invention Piece No. 3 & Double Tourbillon Technique
Invention Piece 3
  • Mechanical hand-wound movement,
  • Calibre GF 01n
  • Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incliné,
  • Hours and minutes display,
  • Seconds display and power-reserve indicator.
New Releases from Greubel Forsey - Invention Piece No. 3 & Double Tourbillon TechniquePhoto credit - Watchprosite

New Releases from Greubel Forsey - Invention Piece No. 3 & Double Tourbillon Technique
Greubel Forsey Website

via Horomundi (photos courtesy of Ian Skellern)

Related Stories at The Watchismo Times:
The Greubel Forsey Invention Piece No. 1
All Greubel Forsey Posts on The Watchismo Times
All Independent Watchmaker Posts

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UNVEILED - Concord C1 Quantum Gravity Aerial Bi-Axial Tourbillon with Liquid Vertical Power Reserve

UNVEILED - Concord C1 Quantum Gravity Aerial Bi-Axial Tourbillon with Liquid Vertical Power Reserve
UNVEILED - Concord C1 Quantum Gravity Aerial Bi-Axial Tourbillon with Liquid Vertical Power ReserveNew Concord C1 Quantum Gravity Bi-Axial Tourbillon

UNVEILED - Concord C1 Quantum Gravity Aerial Bi-Axial Tourbillon with Liquid Vertical Power ReserveA liquid featuring green phosphorescent nanoparticles
fills a tube to assist in the reading of the power reserve

An aerial bi-axial tourbillon, vertical power reserve.

Designed and developed by C Lab Series, a special unit specialising in extreme watchmaking, the C1 QuantumGravity follows from last year's C1 Tourbillon Gravity.

Devised in Fall 2008, the C1 QuantumGravity was born after a 5-month incubation period; BNB Concept created the movement, while Studio Bellon finalized the design.

UNVEILED - Concord C1 Quantum Gravity Aerial Bi-Axial Tourbillon with Liquid Vertical Power Reserve

C1 Movement by BNB Concept

An aerial bi-axial tourbillon mechanism. A vertical power reserve. Individualist seconds. A stripped-down dial and spectacular volumes: the latest specimen from the C Lab Series defies all theories. Even better, it creates its own rules: emptiness is its core material, engineering its constancy; chemistry a dare and transparency a must.

Designed and developed by the C Lab Series, the C1 QuantumGravity symbolizes unrestricted and unconstrained time, where only impulse and intuition prevail. A special unit dedicated to extreme watchmaking, the C Lab Series has a mission: to push the boundaries of mechanical watch making by introducing it to new modes of expression. Last year, the C1 Tourbillon Gravity timepiece inaugurated a new watchmaking era, where time liberates itself without reserve.

In 2009, the C Lab Series is expanding this watchmaking metamorphosis to embrace new horizons. Initially devised in the fall of 2008, the C1 QuantumGravity was born after a 5-month incubation period, nurtured by the will and tireless energy of a team that works on instinct alone. BNB Concept was entrusted with the creation of the movement, while Studio Bellon finalized the design.

The result: a new species of watch that lives time as if it were an experiment and space, a source of stimulation. The creation of the C1 QuantumGravity constitutes a provocative act in itself, while its construction is an exploration carried out at the brink of excess and defiance.

A perpendicular power reserve

First equation: Power reserve = verticality + fluidity

A cylindrical piston. A vertical back-and-forth movement. Liquid. These were the three essential elements combined by the C Lab Series to create this astounding equation involving mechanics and chemistry.

Traditional design and display codes have been demolished to make way for a mobile glass column, located between 12 and 1 o’clock, which serves as the power reserve with a vertical indicator. On the chemistry side of things, a liquid featuring green phosphorescent nanoparticles fills a tube to assist in the reading. Meanwhile, on the mechanical side, this energy gauge operates perpendicularly to the caliber, rising up and down from its base to signal the remaining energy of the movement in relation to its available three-day power reserve. Its graduated outline corresponds to level indicators, which are secured to the inner surface of the watch.

A stayed bi-axial tourbillon

Second equation: Tourbillon = suspension + axes2

Cables. A bi-axial movement. A lateral position. This collection of challenges had to be taken on to erect a spectacular tourbillon carriage.

Exported to the timepiece’s Western border and literally suspended, it rotates in a multi-dimensional manner on two axes – the main one being vertical. Its baffling structure has adopted the rigid and light elevation of cable-stayed bridges: one arm, extended from cables measuring just 2/10th of a mm-wide and fastened to the plate, maintains the carriage vertically and thus reinforces the impression of an independent arrangement. The suspension mechanism is supported by an elastomeric self-tensing system, which enables the cable/arm hinge to be precisely adjusted and the dilatation effects, compensated.

Levitating mechanics

Third equation: Time = space

48.5 mm in diameter and 22 mm in depth: the appearance of a Titan, whose proportions reach a staggering 57.5 mm in breadth. Yet, the C1 QuantumGravity remains easily wearable thanks to its lugless design which ensures a perfect fit on the wrist. The use of Titanium for the case and Aluminum for the majority of movement components bestows a lightness on this timepiece that is as astounding as its size.

The build of this watch composed of 511 parts is also offset by an anatomy that privileges space and transparency: the case, whose machining required 400 hours of fine adjustment, can be reduced to a structure that is literally enveloped by 5 sapphire crystals. The mechanism is visible from all angles.

Although the case and movement share a genetic bond as they were made for each other, they are flanked by other elements that seem to operate self-sufficiently: to the West, a glass excrescence house the tourbillon carriage while to the East, two symmetrical casings house the winding mechanism and the seconds, at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock respectively.

Concealed entirely, the imposing time-setting key can be ejected from its armor by simply pressing on the push button. As for the seconds, they evade the dial to nestle on the side of the case. They are engraved in luminescent orange against a black aluminum roll and can be seen through a window whose cut echoes the push button of the crown. A lateral sapphire crystal reveals the rotating orange blades of the seconds wheel.

The dial has also been contaminated by this urge for maximum openness. Although it strives to display the flight of hours and minutes, its focus is on empty spaces. The depth of its field of vision is dizzying, the feeling of levitation exhilarating. Deconstruction, a concept so dear to Concord, has been magnified: the C1 QuantumGravity apprehends time as a perspective, using emptiness as a material on which time features are grafted.

Under the impressive sapphire crystal, the panorama, amplified to its utmost, outlines time that has almost been dematerialized. And despite the exuding madness, legibility has remained at the core of its construction. Just like a suspended glass saucer, the off-centered hour-circle between 3 and 4 o’clock dresses a part of the cavity at the bottom of which the movement is supported. A spider-like structure acts as a scaffold under the transparent disc punctuated by the luminescent orange markers. The 6.5 mm high hand-fitting is a technical prowess in itself and adds to the feeling of dizziness.

Wedged at the bottom of the abyss, the mechanical manually wound movement choreographs time with precision. An officer-style case-back which appears as an air-lock at every opportunity reveals the geometric circuit, the right-angled skeletonized bridges, the gear-trains that transmit energy to the tourbillon carriage and the cable adjustment. The finishing touches highlight an industrial design that is both methodical and futuristic: a black aluminum plate against anthracite aluminum bridges, rubies against polished steel screws… They embody the spirit of a watch made with high-tech materials, glass, emptiness and colored luminescent materials.

The C1 QuantumGravity defends time that is inexorably linked to space. Prophetic, its construction created in record time propels Concord into a parallel world where intuition is a favored ally and its design and mechanics a harbinger for the future of watchmaking. An addiction to breaking established codes and extrapolating underlies Concord’s creative mettle. C1 QuantumGravity is its ultimate creation.

Go to www.c1-quantum.ch to find out about how this exceptional timepiece, in a limited edition of 10, was created.

Technical Features:

Movement
Mechanical manually wound movement
Caliber Concord C104
21,600 vibrations per hour
3-day power reserve
42 Jewels

Functions
Hours, minutes
Roll of seconds external to the case
Vertical power-reserve indicator
Bi-axial tourbillon

Case
Titanium case with white gold elements
Dimensions: 48.5 mm in diameter – 22 mm in depth
5 sapphire crystals
See through officer-style hinged case back

Dial
Aerial skeletonized dial

Strap
Black vulcanized rubber fixed to the case with 4 screws


For More information;

Link: C1 Concord Main Site


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New Model - Maîtres du Temps Chapter One Black Dial White Gold Moonphase/Day Roller Tourbillon Watch




Video-->Link

LA CHAUX-DE-FONDS, Switzerland – Building on the launch of the Chapter One in 2008, Maîtres du Temps now presents a limited edition of 11 watches with jet-black dial, moonphase and day of week rollers set in a white gold case.



It explains the development of a $400,000 watch by a team of three master watchmakers: Peter Speake-Marin, Roger Dubuis and Christophe Claret.


Press Release;

Timeless elegance is evoked by the juxtaposition of elegant white gold hands against the black dial and of the bright red of the counterpoised chronograph second hand against the engine-turned sun-ray guilloche of the sub-dials. The ethereal beauty of the moon and stars against a dark night sky belies the high-tech nature of its anodized aluminum roller—a roller visually and technically balanced by the day of the week roller at the opposite end of the long, sweeping compound curves of the stunningly finished case.

The highly polished tourbillon literally explodes from the dark dial in a highly reflective burst of light, some of which streams in through the opening to the day roller and sweeps up from under the tourbillon, adding to the three-dimensionality of the spectacle. Amid the indication-rich nature of the dial, the tourbillon cage and bridge stand out as if under a bright spotlight on a semi-darkened stage.

Moonphase Roller

“To my eye, where the silver-dialed Chapter One leans in the direction of a more classic look, this black-dialed version feels sportier, faster. And I particularly like the way that the black of the dial continues into the dark night sky of the moon roller above and the black day roller below,” says Mr. Steven Holtzman, founder of Maîtres du Temps.


Day of Week Roller

Developed by a collaboration of three of the world’s greatest watchmakers, Mr. Christophe Claret, Mr. Roger Dubuis, and Mr. Peter Speake-Marin, Chapter One features a world-first combination of complications: tourbillon, mono-pusher chronograph, retrograde date, retrograde GMT, and two rolling bars at 6 o’clock and 12 o’clock, indicating the day of the week and phase of the moon, respectively. The dial reveals central coaxial hours, minutes, and chronograph 60-second

counter; tourbillon and day of the week roller at 6 o’clock; retrograde GMT at 9 o’clock; 60-minute chronograph counter and precision moon phase roller at 12 o’clock; and retrograde date at 3 o’clock.

Chapter One is imbued with the intoxicating fusion of Mr. Claret’s undisputed mastery of high-end complications, Mr.Dubuis’ rich lifetime of experience in haute horlogerie, and Mr.Speake-Marin’s unparalleled ability to bridge the very best of both traditional and modern watchmaking.

The ease of both reading and adjusting Chapter One’s many indications disguises the fact that this is an extremely complex movement that has been handcrafted and meticulously assembled from 558 components. Efficiently transmitting power to the two rollers and ensuring that they work simultaneously with the time, date, GMT, and chronograph was just one of the immense technical challenges met and conquered.

About Maîtres du Temps

Maîtres du Temps is a pantheon where teams of independent master watchmakers at the very pinnacle of haute horlogerie collaborate to develop innovative, interesting, and very exclusive timepieces. Founded by Mr. Steven Holtzman and based in Switzerland, Maîtres du Temps crafts limited-series mechanical masterpieces, each the synthesis of the experience, art, and techniques of the Masters who create it. For more information, please visit www.maitresdutemps.com.

Your browser may not support display of this image.

Maîtres du Temps Website

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MB&F HM3
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Urwerk
Patek Philippe Cobra Sideview Prototype of 1958
1974 Jaz Derby Swissonic Cylindrical Jump Hour
Jean Dunand Shabaka
Jacob & Co. Quenttin
The Cabestan



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Black Power! Limited Edition MB&F Horological Machine No. 1

Black Power! Limited Edition MB&F Horological Machine No. 1Horological Machine No1 - Black and Rose Gold

The Final Editions

In 2006, MB&F presented Horological Machine No1 (HM1): a groundbreaking wristwatch that both launched MB&F and introduced the world to the then radical concept of three-dimensional kinetic sculpture as timekeeping machines. To pay homage to the end of this pivotal model, MB&F have crafted two final stunning variations, each in a very limited series of only ten pieces: HM1-Black and HM1-RS.

HM1-Black offers the ultimate in contrasts with its white gold case shrouded by a veil of coal-black. The subdued dark, though eye-catching in itself, offers the perfect foil for the burst of light that radiates from the dial. The blackened tourbillon cage allows the eye to glide past deep into the movement, while the bright blue of both the hands and the solid gold rotor provides a brilliant splash of color in an otherwise two-tone landscape.

HM1-RS features a red gold case that highlights the architecturally inspired and artistically sculptured three-dimensional case, and an intriguing transparent dial allows visual access to the top of the meticulously finished movement. The dial is ‘intriguing’ because, depending on the angle of view, it can change from being completely transparent to acting as a highly reflective now-you-see-it-now-you-don’t mirror.

Both HM1-Black and HM1-RS feature hours and minutes on separate dials, a raised central one-minute tourbillon, a seven-day power reserve, four mainspring barrels and both automatic and manual winding.

The hours and minutes are indicated on their respective etched-sapphire bridges augmented by precision laser-cut applied numerals, and a rotating disk indicates the seven-day power reserve on the right-hand dial.

An extra-wide custom tapered strap, complemented by a bespoke buckle, completes the timepiece.

Exclusive is hardly the right word for these two extremely limited editions of just 10 pieces each.

Black Power! Limited Edition MB&F Horological Machine No. 1
MB&F website->LINK

Related MB&F, Max Busser, and Horological Machine Posts-->LINK

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New Brand - Ladoire Geneve Helvet Mechanic RGT (Roller Guardian Time) Watch

New Brand - Ladoire Geneve Helvet Mechanic RGT (Roller Guardian Time) WatchFollowing in the footsteps of independent watch brands like Hautlence, 36 year old watch designer Lionel Ladoire has introduced his first collection featuring the Timepiece Roller Guardian Time. A limited edition series of 40 watches are planned for their first year of production.

Ladoire's first timekeeper offers an unusual view. Time is displayed by revolving indicators that turn on ball bearings. There is one single hand displaying a second time zone. A deep recess in the middle of the hour-indicator shows some of the entrails of the custom- made movement by ASXP-Engineering, an enterprise that also works for Hautlence and MCT. The large pusher on the right adjusts the second time-zone.


New Brand - Ladoire Geneve Helvet Mechanic RGT (Roller Guardian Time) WatchClose-up of dial with hours disc (upper left), minutes (lower center), and seconds (upper right), and a GMT second time zone at the center.

New Brand - Ladoire Geneve Helvet Mechanic RGT (Roller Guardian Time) WatchThe back of the watch reveals some further interesting details of the movement. The micro-rotor for the automatic winding is covered by a circular disc giving it a perfectly balanced look. The balance-wheel bridge shows the two attachments for the Moser double hairspring coming from Precision Engineering in Schaffhausen. A spiderweb on the barrel is part of the corporate design.


New Brand - Ladoire Geneve Helvet Mechanic RGT (Roller Guardian Time) WatchSide-view with GMT regulator

New Brand - Ladoire Geneve Helvet Mechanic RGT (Roller Guardian Time) WatchFrench watch designer Lionel Ladoire

Ladoire website--> LINK

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New Releases - Linde Werdelin SpidoLite

New Releases - Linde Werdelin SpidoLite
New Releases - Linde Werdelin SpidoLiteGadget and horological aficionados trying to balance durability with weight have a stylish new option. The SpidoLite, from Danish watchmaker Linde Werdelin, employs a titanium casing that drastically reduces the overall weight. Reportedly made at the request of mountaineer Morten Linde before he climbed Mount Everest, the casing is drilled into an "exoskeleton" form that further lightens the load while giving it a striking, incomplete appearance.

Particularly exciting for vintage watch fans, the SpidoLite uses a 1970s automatic movement that was personally modified by founding member of the ACHI, Svend Anderson.

The SpidoLite is produced in a single batch of only 44 and will officially hit the market at BaselWorld 2009. It's expected to retail for €9,000 and will be available in April.

New Releases - Linde Werdelin SpidoLiteBlack DLC SpidoLite with detachable "instrument" and yellow Sapphire crystal

via Coolhunting & KronosBlog

Linde Werdelin website-->Link
Svend Anderson website-->Link

New Releases - Linde Werdelin SpidoLitePreviously featured Linde Werdelin Bifometer Watch->Link

Read these other unusual watch stories from The Watchismo Times;

Horological Weaponry
Shoot To Kilfitt - Subminiature Camera-Watch
Subminiature Camera Watches
Steinheil Camera Watch
Victorian Camera Pocket Watch
1950s Minifon Spy Recorder Watch
Compartment Scroll Watch
Victorian Wrist Horn
Rolex Lipstick Watch
Omega Ring Watch
Rolex Ring Watch
Walking Stick Watches
History of Calculating Devices
James Bond Movie Gadget Watches

Not Enough? More Odd Watch Stories-->LINK


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New Releases - De Bethune Dream Watch No.2 Silicon-Titanium Tourbillon 2009

New Releases - De Bethune Dream Watch No.2 Silicon-Titanium Tourbillon 2009As its defining characteristic, the calibre DB2009 employs the lightest tourbillon in the world designed entirely in silicon and titanium and having neither a cage nor the traditional pillars, but incorporating the latest temperature-compensated silicon / platinum balance. The frequency of this new hand-wound mechanical calibre is 36,000 vibrations per hour and inside a 30 second tourbillon.

The Dream Watch Two possesses the lightest tourbillion in the world. This anorexic tourbillion is a slim, U-shaped silicon cage and a platinum ring surrounding the balance wheel, weighing a total of 0.18 grams. The tourbillion is extremely interesting but I have little technical details. Again, this watch is incredibly well finished. Incredibly. 10 pieces will be made each year.

via Horomundi

New Releases - De Bethune Dream Watch No.2 Silicon-Titanium Tourbillon 2009
New Releases - De Bethune Dream Watch No.2 Silicon-Titanium Tourbillon 2009Power reserve indicator on the back of Tourbillon 2009



New Releases - De Bethune Dream Watch No.2 Silicon-Titanium Tourbillon 2009Dream One with annular balance.
(and three-dimensional moonphase)


The simple oscillator of the mechanical calibre DB2016, designed by De4 Bethune, is a genuine achievement in the world of watchmaking. The balance spring of the regulating organ is not visible; it is concealed within an annular balance consisting of a central silicon disc surrounded by a thin ring of polished platinum which can be seen through the dial.


New Releases - De Bethune Dream Watch No.2 Silicon-Titanium Tourbillon 2009

Annular Balance: The balance spring of the regulating organ is not visible; it is concealed within an annular balance consisting of a central silicon disc surrounded by a thin ring of polished platinum which can be seen through the dial.


See much more from Ian Skellern at Horomundi-->LINK

De Bethune Dream Watch One photomontage-->LINK


DeBethune official website-->LINK


Other Related Independent Watch Brand Features at The Watchismo Times-->LINK


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Stepan Sarpaneva Presents Redesigned Gold Korona K3 Moonphase at BaselworldReal Life Photos of the Concord C1 Quantum Gravity TourbillonChristophe Claret Introduces his DualTow Display Belt Single Pusher Planetary Chronograph with Striking MechanismNew Releases from Greubel Forsey - Invention Piece No. 3 & Double Tourbillon TechniqueUNVEILED - Concord C1 Quantum Gravity Aerial Bi-Axial Tourbillon with Liquid Vertical Power ReserveNew Model - Maîtres du Temps Chapter One Black Dial White Gold Moonphase/Day Roller Tourbillon WatchBlack Power! Limited Edition MB&F Horological Machine No. 1New Brand - Ladoire Geneve Helvet Mechanic RGT (Roller Guardian Time) WatchNew Releases - Linde Werdelin SpidoLiteNew Releases - De Bethune Dream Watch No.2 Silicon-Titanium Tourbillon 2009

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