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THE WATCHISMO TIMES WATCH BLOG A reliquary of obscure timepieces from bygone eras as well as the cutting-edge watch designs of today.

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Urwerk 202 Hammerhead Automatic at 2008 SIHH

From Urwerk's presentation of the new UR-202 Twin Turbine-->Link

UR202 Promotional Video-->Link

The UR-202 is the world’s first watch with the winding rate regulated by fluid dynamics.

As long ago as the 18th century, clockmakers were using air friction to regulate the speed of chiming clocks, and their techniques evolved to become the preferred method of regulating the rate of chimes on minute-repeaters.

With the UR-202, URWERK have taken the traditional idea of using air friction and refined it to control the rate of automatic winding.
The traditional rotating vanes of the past have been replaced by cutting-edge miniature twin turbines - miniature air compressors - which can be seen spinning on the back of the watch.


Urwerk turbines

The UR-202’s twin turbines are coupled with the winding rotor. According to the position of the selector lever, the turbines act as shock absorbers.
In normal activity they cushion sharp movements of the rotor. This reduces wear and increases the lifespan of the movement.
While the selector position is continuously variable, the three principal positions are: normal activity, where the turbines spin freely; vigorous activity, where the air pressure generated by the turbines reduces the winding rate by approximately 35%; and extreme activity, where the turbines and rotor are fully blocked.


The turbine system is totally self-contained within the waterproof case. The air flows from under the turbines and is channeled up past them under a sapphire plate and down through holes leading to a tiny air chamber.

The turbines are controlled by a 3-position selector switch. This functions by adjusting the level of air compression the turbines generate by selectively regulating the amount of air flowing from inside the case.

The spinning turbines force air through holes into a tiny air chamber. The selector switch controls the amount of air escaping from the turbines.
By restricting the airflow, it increases the air pressure and slows down the turbines and the winding rotor.


The UR-202 also features URWERK’s patented Revolving Satellite Complication with telescopic minutes hands.

The Revolving Satellite Complication displays time using telescopic minutes hands operating through the middle of three orbiting and revolving hours satellites. The telescopic minutes hands precisely adjust their length to follow the three sectors marking the minutes: 0-14, 15-44, 45-60.

Extended, they enable the UR-202 to display the time across a large, easy-to-read dial. Retracted, they allow for a very wearable and comfortably sized case.


Photo->Link


Related Posts;
ALL URWERK STORIES-->Link

See Also;
Urwerk Website->Link
Ian Skellern's (R)Evolution of Urwerk->Link
Horomundi's Complete Urwerk Story->Link



Urwerk's first model, the Nightwatch Wandering Hour



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Papillon by Andreas Strehler

Watchmaker Andreas Strehler is introducing the Papillon, his independent follow-up to last years Opus 7 for Harry Winston.

Strehler's representative Curtis Thomson of Tempered Online described it for me;

"The Papillon functions differently than the Opus 7. The 7’s time was actuated via a button in the crow, with hours and minutes indicated on one disc – an ingenious system. The Papillon has two separate discs (an hours disc and a minutes disc), with each of the two mainspring barrels receiving a time disc. Normally this wouldn’t be possible, as the barrel turns too fast to indicate the hours and turns too slowly to indicate the minutes… normally. Andreas has developed a system to allow this to happen, with winding and time setting done with the crown. How? Some crazy ass gearing – that’s how ;-). The Papillon is artistic and technical – a super watch." The price is 140,000 CHF

“How to tell the time?” The “butterfly” bridge has two points – one towards the top and the second towards the bottom – which indicate the time (hours on top, minutes on bottom) as the respective discs travel past."


Watching The Passage of Time

At this year's Basel World, Swiss watchmaker Andreas Strehler will be presenting his latest masterpiece, the Papillon, for the first time. This watch, with its unusual time display, is fascinating at first sight and it inspires not only timepiece connoisseurs.

The Creation

The unusual movement design was first employed in 2007. That was when renowned watch manufacturer, Harry Winston, asked Andreas Strehler if he would like to develop the legendary OPUS 7. Andreas Strehler, who had previously already collaborated with Chronoswiss, H.Moser&Cie and Maurice Lacroix, took up the challenge. He set himself the aim of designing a watch movement that would be captivating in its technical brilliance. But it still had to be easy to tell the time with it. At this stage he probably did not suppose that telling the time was actually to become a particular pleasure.

This concept is repeated in his latest work, the Papillon, but with Andreas Strehler's unmistakable signature and new technical refinements. The design and virtuoso technical sophistication of the watch movement puts everything that came before it into the shade, turning the watch into a coveted collector's item.


Mysterious Time Display

Spring barrels normally turn too slowly for the display of minutes and too fast for the hours. But in the Papillon the timing works differently. Its spring barrels are not firmly tied into the sequence of the movement. As a result the time display can be adjusted by means of the hand setting. In addition, two giant gear wheels with 192 and 175 teeth remove the need for a third wheel. This reduction in the number of wheels and the double spring barrel arrangement result in energy savings which extend the life of the watch enormously.

Fascinating Design

Along with the technical advantages, the unusual design is also astounding. The first thing you notice when looking at the movement is the shape of a butterfly, which seems to arise naturally from the arrangement of the bridges, hence too the watch’s name, Papillon.
Thanks to the special arrangement of the gear wheels, it has been possible to design the watch in an open way, offering the user the special experience of being able to watch the passage of time. The movement assumes the function of design. The consistently applied flowing forms endow the watch with elegance, and are reminiscent of the famous technical masterpieces of the Art Nouveau era.


Expressive Yet Quiet

Constructing a beautiful watch takes time. And it takes patience and endurance to achieve the longed-for perfection. Andreas Strehler combines these virtues most impressively. Anyone who can call a watch by Andreas Strehler his own also possesses the certainty of having discovered something special and unique. The exclusivity, the outstanding engineering and the deliberate understatement of the Papillon do not need to be shouted from the rooftops. The watch speaks for itself, emphasising the unconventional character of the wearer.


Made in Switzerland

Andreas Strehler is the owner of Uhrteil AG in Sirnach, where with a team of twelve experts, watchmakers, technicians and precision mechanics, he pursues his passion. The team not only develops and produces all the movements for the innovative mechanisms itself, but also the machines and computer software needed to make them. Andreas Strehler is convinced that opportunities in the field of "haute horlogerie" are still far from being exhausted. We will just have to wait and see what the visionary comes up with next.




Strehler Opus 7 Video-->Link

Andreas Strehler's Tempered page-->Link


All New 2008 Watch Posts-->Link


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MB&F introduces Limited Edition Titanium Horological Machine No.1 - The HM1 Ti

MB&F introduces Limited Edition Titanium Horological Machine No.1 - The HM1 TiI had a blast trying on a MB&F HM1 (and HM2!) late last year and decided to buy one if Max would give me an installment plan of $100 a month for 1500 months. Sadly, I am still sans Horological Machine.

But now I have my heart set on the Ti, a just-announced limited edition of ten HM1 in Titanium casing. Maybe a layaway plan this time Max?

From Max just a few hours ago...
"We will be unveiling on September 7th HM1-Ti, a very special 10 piece limited edition of “Horological Machine No1” . Out of the 100 HM1 movements to be crafted between 2007 and 2009, only 10 will conjugate this amazing Titanium case (a real feat to achieve) with a new sapphire dial partially unveiling the Tourbillon system and the amazing hour/minute floating synchronizing wheel."

MB&F introduces Limited Edition Titanium Horological Machine No.1 - The HM1 TiHM1-Ti is an extremely sophisticated timepiece on many levels: visually, technically and emotionally. As much, if not more, art and sculpture as micro-engineering.

HM1-Ti is an avant-garde three-dimensional timekeeping machine broken free from constraints imposed by traditional horology.

The relatively light weight belies the architectural volume of HM1-Ti's grade 5 titanium case; a case whose complex modular construction enables every part to be independently
refurbished.

The radical three-dimensionality of the case construction may turn heads; however, the
totally original and highly intricate movement inside, with its 376 parts and 81 functional jewels, ensures that HM1-Ti will turn minds as well.

MB&F introduces Limited Edition Titanium Horological Machine No.1 - The HM1 TiThe challenge of applying a variety of multi-faceted fine finishes to the difficult-to-work titanium has been rewarded by the vibrant juxtaposition of light reflecting off the contrasting highly polished and matte-satin surfaces.

An extra-wide custom tapered strap, complemented by a bespoke white gold and titanium folding buckle, completes the timepiece and reinforces the highly technical nature of the case.

HM1-Ti is a limited edition of 10 pieces


Movement:
Raised central one-minute tourbillon, separate hours and minutes, seven-day power reserve.
Balance oscillating at 28,800 bph.
Automatic winding.
Four mainspring barrels in parallel.
Number of jewels: 81 (all functional).
Number of parts: 376 (including jewels).

Functions:
Left dial: Hours
Right Dial: Minutes and Seven-Day Power Reserve

Case:
Titanium Grade 5 - Limited Edition of 10.
Dimensions: length 41mm, width 64mm, height 14mm.
Number of parts: 48.

Sapphire crystals:
Dial side with anti-reflective treatment on both faces.
Display back with anti-reflective treatment on single face.

Dial:
Open dial with etched sapphire Hour and Minute bridges.
Power reserve displayed by rotating disk.

Strap & Buckle:
Extra wide black hand-stitched alligator strap with white gold/titanium folding buckle.

Presentation box:
Bespoke ETRO pin-stripe flannel and leather designer carry bag hosting the presentation
box.

See Also;
All Horological Machine Posts-->Link



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Fly Me To the Moonphase - Sarpaneva's Sculptural Slices of Cheese - The Korona K3 (& K2)

Fly Me To the Moonphase - Sarpaneva's Sculptural Slices of Cheese - The Korona K3 (& K2)On the heels of Stepan Sarpaneva's industrial designed Korona K1 (featured previously here->link) is the phenomenal bas-relief double moonphase Korona K3. Simultaneously, he's sent me early pics of the prototype skeletonized K2 with cutout date disc (below).

More details to follow but enjoy the first looks of this Finnish line.

Fly Me To the Moonphase - Sarpaneva's Sculptural Slices of Cheese - The Korona K3 (& K2)White gold dimensional moonphase

Fly Me To the Moonphase - Sarpaneva's Sculptural Slices of Cheese - The Korona K3 (& K2)Korona K3 white gold caseback moon & winding mass

Fly Me To the Moonphase - Sarpaneva's Sculptural Slices of Cheese - The Korona K3 (& K2)
Fly Me To the Moonphase - Sarpaneva's Sculptural Slices of Cheese - The Korona K3 (& K2)Korona K2 with the skeletonized and cutout date disc


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Horologymnastics - Antoine Preziuso's B-Side

Horologymnastics - Antoine Preziuso's B-SideThe 2008 "B-Side", new from
Swiss watchmaker Antoine Preziuso

Horologymnastics - Antoine Preziuso's B-SideB-Side Dial

"A desire to "do different" is perfectly symbolized by the B-Side, a tourbillon watch designed to be worn in reverse. "More often than not we forget about, even hide, the reverse side of a watch when aesthetically speaking it’s certainly the most beautiful, akin to a sculpture. This inspired me to make this side the focus of attention while giving the B-Side a mechanism to pivot the case and read the time. Having said that, the days are gone when the watch was seen purely and simply as an object for telling the time, as time is now given everywhere. In fact I’m thinking of making the B-Side the sole theme of my next presentation at Basel. In a similar vein, we’ve launched a collection of "mechanical jewelry." These are pieces of jewelry that incorporate an aspect of a watch mechanism. Their purpose is not to give the time but to pulsate with a moon phase, rotor or tourbillon."



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Interesting New Brand - Cornelius & Cie

Interesting New Brand - Cornelius & CieCornelius & Cie is a new high-end watch brand based in Geneva, Switzerland. The company was founded in the summer of 2007 and was initiated by two Dutchman, world-famous watch engraver Kees Engelbarts (1967) and jeweller Paul Pertijs (1968), crowning a friendship started while both were students at the renowned Dutch Gold- and Silversmith Academy.

Interesting New Brand - Cornelius & CieThe company will produce extremely exclusive watches, using vintage watch movements in proprietary cases of classic but innovative design. Every single part of the movements is embellished by hand, skeletonized and/or engraved by Kees Engelbarts. Customers are offered extensive possibilities to have the watch and the movements personalized with specific engravings.

Interesting New Brand - Cornelius & CieThe
Chronosome 46XY is the first labor of passion coming to the public eye from the Cornelius & Cie studio. The heart of the Chronosome 46XY watch is an Calibre AS 690, developed and produced by the A. Schild company in Grenchen, Switzerland, in 1935, beating at steady 18.000 b.p.h. (beats per hour)

When the strong main spring is fully wound (by hand) the movement has a power reserve of 8 days. The position of the eccentrically barrel is immediately evident by the shape of the case.
The first collection presented (in April) will consist of 12 Chronosome 46XY watches. Total production capacity of the Geneva-based workshop is expected to grow to 300 watches per year.

Interesting New Brand - Cornelius & Cie
Cornelius & Cie website-->Link
via
Timezone

See Also;
All Independent Brands & Watchmaker Posts


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Steel on Steel Action - Prototype Korona K1 from Stepan Sarpaneva

Steel on Steel Action - Prototype Korona K1 from Stepan SarpanevaHelsinki watchmaker, Stepan Sarpaneva, nephew of the famed Finnish mid-century designer Timo Sarpaneva, has produced yet another stellar timepiece -- the Korona K1. Following the success of his very limited and sold-out Supernova series (featured here->link), Stepan is quickly forming a large celestial body of work with the addition of the Korona to his intimate galaxy.

Steel on Steel Action - Prototype Korona K1 from Stepan Sarpaneva44mm wide and 9.6mm tall, the nearly full-Finnish production is made entirely of stainless steel including the dial, date disc, hands, crown, case, and rotor. The grated dial design reminds me of the incredible variety of antique manhole covers found all over here in New York City-->Link

Curtis Thomson of Tempered-Online and Horomundi further describes the Korona's features;
"Powered by the Soprod A10, with the mainplate modified by Sarpaneva to enhance the larger "skeleton" date disc feature, the movement will be visible through its display back allowing us to see the gold plated steel rotor. (pics coming soon)

K1 will be available, as pictured, but also with a black diamond coated case and an Imperial Blue dial. The dial is made in three parts from Stainless, with these skeleton like dials are becoming a bit of a trademark for Sarpaneva. The hands are microblasted giving them a textured surface, except for their tips, which are black polished."

The Korona pricing is likely to start a bit above $8500.

Steel on Steel Action - Prototype Korona K1 from Stepan SarpanevaThe first public appearance of a Korona K1 (K2 & K3) will be at the upcoming Baselworld watch fair in Basel Switzerland. Stepan will be exhibiting with superstar independents Vianney Halter and others.

Stay tuned to The Watchismo Times for updates of the latest and greatest modern horology has to offer.

Steel on Steel Action - Prototype Korona K1 from Stepan SarpanevaThe skeletonized vertical date window

One of the coolest features of this watch can't really be appreciated by photographs. Each digit of the steel calendar disc is hand carved exposing the movement through the numbers!

Steel on Steel Action - Prototype Korona K1 from Stepan SarpanevaHere is a clearer image of the skeletonized calendar digits

Steel on Steel Action - Prototype Korona K1 from Stepan SarpanevaThe prototype Korona K1 shot direct from Sarpaneva's bench

Steel on Steel Action - Prototype Korona K1 from Stepan SarpanevaThe rear rotor/winding mass

Steel on Steel Action - Prototype Korona K1 from Stepan SarpanevaThe black-diamond coated Korona

See all other Sarpaneva Posts;
The Sarpaneva Supernova
Blue Steel Supernova
Sarpaneva Loiste II
Eero Aarnio Prototype by Sarpaneva

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The New BRM Manufacture Birotor BRT-3 In Gold

The New BRM Manufacture Birotor BRT-3 In Gold"Many of you are aware of the automotive themed, dramatically styled watches from BRM, and I'm very happy to bring you this introduction to the BRM Birotor in rose gold, with BRM's very own in-house movement.

This is a spectacular watch, very much in the spirit of the modern watch world- a boldly designed piece that expresses from the inside out the renewed fascination of man for machinery and for the ability of watches to both be, and act as, representations of the beauty and power of machinery."
-Jack Forster of Horomundi

The New BRM Manufacture Birotor BRT-3 In GoldErgonomic adjustable lugs and sideview see-thru case

The New BRM Manufacture Birotor BRT-3 In GoldView of the shock absorbers

The watch is also available in titanium and black titanium.
This model is the BRT3, weight: 111,35 gr of rose gold. every
part, the case, the lugs, the clasp are made from a bloc of rose gold
nothing in this watch has been stamped.
Precitime movement 40x48mm
Suspended movement on triangle bridges in carbon fiber
  • Shock absorbers with cone-shaped spring, ISOLASTIC system ® (certified)
  • Differential mechanism Automatic Birotor
  • Arcap plate and bridges
  • Assembled movement and 6-sided bolts
  • Lightened bridge and plate structure
  • BRM balance with ruby gyroscopic effect
  • Double ceramic rotor bearings
  • Fortale HR aluminium rotors
  • Tantalum rotor weights
  • Bi-polar time system with double crowns (certified)
  • Ergonomic lugs with 3 adjustable positions ( certified)
  • Crown moved to 2 pm for better comfort
  • Curvilinear front and back sapphire glass
  • Water resistant up to 30 meters

  • BRT-1 Titanium case and stainless steel crown and lugs
    BRT-2 Black titanium and stainless steel crown and lugs
    BRT-3 Titanium and rose gold crown and lugs
    BRT-4 Rose gold case,crown, lugs

    The New BRM Manufacture Birotor BRT-3 In Gold
    The New BRM Manufacture Birotor BRT-3 In Gold

    The New BRM Manufacture Birotor BRT-3 In Gold
    B.R.M. Manufacture Website
    ( Birotor prices start at 50,000 € )

    The New BRM Manufacture Birotor BRT-3 In Goldvia Horomundi


    See Also;
    All Automotive Watch Posts
    B.R.M. Manufacture Birotor
    Other Models from B.R.M.
    Parmigiani Bugatti Engine Block Watch
    Azimuth Chrono Gauge Mecha
    Audemars Piguet Maserati Millenary MC12
    Gerald Genta Arena Chrono Quattro Retro
    Radiator Grille Watches
    Kienzle Life 2002 Jump Hour
    Paul Smith Dashboard Watch
    Heuer Silverstone
    Heuer Ford Chronosplit
    Tag Heuer Monaco V4 Belt Drive Watch
    Dashboard Clock History
    Delorean Time DMC2 Wristwatch
    Formex Shock Absorber Watch
    Driver Watches


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    Impressions of an Early HM2 Owner (MB&F Horological Machine No.2)

    Impressions of an Early HM2 Owner (MB&F Horological Machine No.2)One of the very first owners of a MB&F Horological Machine No.2 has shared his images and thoughts-->Link

    Impressions of an Early HM2 Owner (MB&F Horological Machine No.2)
    "It’s an object which I can’t stop staring at. It is anything but tactile (unlike the HM-1 which was all in curves) but I can’t stop touching it."

    Impressions of an Early HM2 Owner (MB&F Horological Machine No.2)A thermometer watch box for the HM2!


    See Also;
    All MB&F Horological Machine Posts-->Link



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    First Hand Experience with Greubel Forsey's Invention Piece No. 1

    First Hand Experience with Greubel Forsey's Invention Piece No. 1Timezoner and collector Kee Yew has purchased one of the coolest timepieces ever made, the Greubel Forsey Invention Piece No. 1. (originally featured here->link) He shares his experience and photos of this limited edition double tourbillon on Timezone-->Link (one of only 22 made)

    First Hand Experience with Greubel Forsey's Invention Piece No. 1Close-up of tourbillon-orbiting indicators

    The value? Let's just say that for the same price, you could buy a house or the Invention Piece No. 1.

    Greubel Forsey website-->Link

    See also;
    All Greubel Forsey Posts on The Watchismo Times
    All Independent Watchmaker Posts
    All Tourbillon Posts


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    Urwerk 202 Hammerhead Automatic at 2008 SIHHPapillon by Andreas StrehlerMB&F introduces Limited Edition Titanium Horological Machine No.1 - The HM1 TiFly Me To the Moonphase - Sarpaneva's Sculptural Slices of Cheese - The Korona K3 (& K2)Horologymnastics - Antoine Preziuso's B-SideInteresting New Brand - Cornelius & CieSteel on Steel Action - Prototype Korona K1 from Stepan SarpanevaThe New BRM Manufacture Birotor BRT-3 In GoldImpressions of an Early HM2 Owner (MB&F Horological Machine No.2)First Hand Experience with Greubel Forsey's Invention Piece No. 1

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