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THE WATCHISMO TIMES WATCH BLOG A reliquary of obscure timepieces from bygone eras as well as the cutting-edge watch designs of today.

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Be sure to come check out our new blog at The Minutes where you'll find features like the following and much more!
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DOES YOUR WATCH HAVE BALLS?

The  Van Cleef & Arpels 'Midnight Planetarium Poetic Complication' by watchmaker Christiaan van der Klaauw, is a hypnotic astronomical timepiece bearing a miniature solar system that you can wear on your wrist. Ok, maybe the title of this post is a tad crass but the fact is the watches below have the balls to use spheres of [...]
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the coolest wood watches EVER MADE

There is no denying mid-century design was particularly special for art, cars & furniture but also true for a variety of watch designs. It was a period of experimentation with minimalism, asymmetry and new materials which opened the door for the use of wood in timepieces. Introduced in the late fifties and [...]

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PUTTING SOME STEAM BACK INTO STEAMPUNK

This week, we're revisiting an old friend, Japanese Steampunk watchmaker, Sueyoshi Haruo (also referred to as Haruo Suekichi), featured nearly a decade ago on The Watchismo Times blog. Having created thousands of custom built Steampunk watches, all nearly one of a kind and with completely hilarious mechanical functions like flapping leather dragon wings to celebratory noisemakers and [...]
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WHAT'S THE COOLEST WATCH NEVER MADE?

Far ahead of its time, the 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra concept watch was doomed.  Destined to torment space-age vintage watch collectors like myself, this watch exists only as a one-off prototype designed by renowned avant garde watchmaker Louis Cottier eight years before his death in 1966.  Unique for its linear time display and [...]
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Prototype Patek Philippe Cobra Movement
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ANDREW GRIMA'S UNUSUAL OMEGA & LED WATCHES 1969-76

Andrew Grima was a famous British mid-century modern jewelry designer, commissioned to create unusual one-of-a-kind watches for Omega and Pulsar in the 60's & early 70's. He was commissioned by Omega to create a highly aesthetic avant-garde collection called 'About Time'.  Grima was given a free hand and chose to stick to one principle: he would [...]
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ARE WATCHES ART?

If you ask us, we wholeheartedly believe there has been a new genre of art forming over the past twenty years within the very exclusive world of independent horology.  That said, it's more about motion and machines as the medium but nevertheless, there are some important collaborations that have occurred with watch brands and [...]


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THANK GOD IT'S SEVENFRIDAY

We've been watching  SEVENFRIDAY's growth in their fast & furious few years since inception...and we're hooked, especially the new collections & limited editions available in very small quantities. In pole position sits the  P3B/01 RACER, the newest from the original P Series. Undeniably forward thinking design up & down, inside and out. Hot on its heels is the [...]

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WHAT DOES TIME IN THE 4TH DIMENSION LOOK LIKE?

22 Design Studio's elegant '4th Dimension' Watches feature a staircase of high tension concrete for the dial. From its sculptural time display to the custom shaped brass hands and perfectly styled leather straps, every detail of this wristwatch has been designed to show the beauty of the raw materials. This unique timepiece's tanned leather and [...]

Salvador Dali's "La Prémonition des Tiroirs" Premonition of the Drawers 1973 Table Clock

Salvador Dali's DALI DIDN'T JUST MELT CLOCKS Y'KNOW...

"The Premonition of the Drawers" created by the great master of surrealism Salvador Dali, in 1973. This is the fifth in a series of eight such complex and vaguely menacing bronze forms based on a 1934 pencil sketch of a semi-reclining female figure with a number of partly open drawers, her throat and neck covered by her long hair. The head consists of an OMEGA electronic watch. The white Roman numeral dial with stick hands (special version) covers a "mouse" sonic resonator calibre 1220 whose case is held at the top by a single screw-in Catalan bean.

Salvador Dali, Paris

Longueur : 39 cm. Hauteur: 28 cm. Largeur : 20.5 cm.

1973

L'horloge est une sculpture en bronze patiné, vert clair, conçue par Salvador Dali d'après un dessin daté de 1934, La prémonition des tiroirs. Réalisé par le sculpteur Onelio Vignando, le bronze a été fondu par la maison Valsuani, à Paris. L'œuvre a été éditée en huit exemplaires, auxquels s'ajoutent quatre épreuves d'artiste, par la galerie André-François Petit à Paris.

Un modèle spécial de montre, munie d'un mouvement électronique à diapason, a été construit par la maison Omega afin d'être inséré dans la sculpture. Notons que le haricot qui la surmonte se dévisse pour permettre de l'enlever.

Dali développa, dans les années 1930, une suite de représentations allégoriques du Temps incluant des horloges et des montres.

D'après "Catalogue d'œuvres choisies"
Catherine Cardinal, Jean-Michel Piguet,
Éditions Institut l'homme et le temps, 1999


Collection of MIH (MUSEE INTERNATIONAL D'HORLOGERIE)

Related Posts at The Watchismo Times
All Artist Timepiece Stories


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Omega Reissues the Famous Ploprof Divers Watch - 1970s Jacques Cousteau Collaboration

Omega Reissues the Famous Ploprof Divers Watch - 1970s Jacques Cousteau Collaboration
Omega announces the 2009 Professional Ploprof Diver developed in conjunction with famed diver Jacques Cousteau.

Technical Specifications:
  • Movement: Co-Axial Caliber 8500
  • Case: Stainless Steel, Water resistant to 1200 meters
  • Sapphire bezel and crystal
  • Bi-directional rotating bezel with security push-button lock for the bezel
  • Screwed-in and protected crown at 9
  • Special Seamaster medallion on the case-back with grooved wave-pattern
  • Bracelet: New Omega mesh SHARK-PROOF bracelet or rubber strap (black or orange) that can be adjusted for wearing over the diving suit (can be up to 7mm thick thanks to a double extension system), a new sliding clasp, capable of fine adjustments

The watch has a MSRP of CHF 8,000 on the mesh or roughly $7,700.

Omega Reissues the Famous Ploprof Divers Watch - 1970s Jacques Cousteau Collaboration
via Watch Happening

Below, a watch collector friend provided a wrist shot of his enormous vintage 1970s Ploprof...

Omega Reissues the Famous Ploprof Divers Watch - 1970s Jacques Cousteau Collaboration


Omega Reissues the Famous Ploprof Divers Watch - 1970s Jacques Cousteau CollaborationThe solid caseback (movement was accessed from the front)

Some history on the Ploprof from Deskdivers;


Developed in conjunction with Comex and the legendary Jacques Cousteau, Omega conceived and developed what was probably the first waterproof watch designed and built solely for the diving professional.The watch took 4 years to come to the market after extensive testing and arrived in 1970. It was nicknamed PloProf by the French speaking development team and derives from the French term PLOngeur PROFessionnel (Professional Diver).Comex used early models of the PloProf and continued their research into living underwater for prolonged periods. One Issue that still concerned Comex was helium infiltration, which carried the danger of causing a watch crystal to pop out during decompression. There is no proof that this problem occurred with any Ploprof, and later tests by the American diving research centre Ocean Systems Inc. in Tarrytown, NY, certified that the Ploprof was ‘more watertight’ than a submarine. However, Comex wanted to be sure to combat the helium infiltration issue, rather than trust improved watch-case sealing. They chose to continue their research work with Rolex and Doxa to test their new Helium Expulsion Valve (HEV) designs. HEVs were incorporated in the Rolex SeaDweller which Comex used reliably for many, many years."

Read more about the vintage history here-->DesktopDivers

Related Posts at The Watchismo Times;


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Look at Legendary LEDs of Lloyd's Large Collection


Video-->Link

With the recent release of the $350,000 Opus 8 ->(link) and the de Grisogono Meccanico dG ->(link) with their mechanically mimicked LED digits, I wanted to also share this video and photos from the collection of UK LED collector, Lloyd "Theledwatch". He was recently featured on Antiques Roadshow (see video above) where he shared some of the best examples of early 1970s digital light emitting diode watches like the Pulsar Hamilton P1, Girard Perregaux Casquette, Omega Time Computer and my one-of-a-kind favorites by the Royal designer Andrew Grima.

Some highlights of Lloyd's collection including the rarest and most valuable vintage digital LED watches of the seventies; (text also from theledwatch.com)

The Hewlett Packard HP-01 LED Watch calculator was a marvel of miniaturization and intelligent design. It was HP's first watch and their first small algebraic calculator but it was more than just a wristwatch and a calculator in the same package.

It combined them to do things that neither could do alone. Its user interface combined the best of both worlds. For example, to change time zones, the user displayed the time, added or subtracted the appropriate amount and stored the result.

Three styles of the Hewlett Packard HP-01 Calculator Watches

In the late 1960's and throughout the 1970's, Andrew Grima was commissioned by various members of the British and Scandinavian Royal family including Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II and Princess Margaret, to make various items of jewelry.

Mr. Grima's work is very highly sought after and collectors pay many thousands of pounds for his rare and beautiful pieces.. During the 70's his work was sold in an exclusive gallery in Knightsbridge (LONDON) and would range form many thousands to a million pounds plus.

Another one-of-a-kind Grima LED!

The rarest calculator watch by Uranus


Girard Perregaux's perfectly designed sideview "Casquette"

GP Casquette in Macrolon (also avail in gold)

The first solar powered watch by Synchronar
Invented by Roger Riehl in the late sixties
(Read previous post about history of Solar watches-->Link)
Rare Synchronar Ad for Women

Roger Tallon's original 1975 asymmetric LIP Mach 2000 models
(above and below)


The first electronic digital watches on the market by Hamilton-Pulsar

1973 Pulsar P2 for Tiffany & Co.

The ultra-rare Pulsar P1 in solid 18k
Only a few dozen in circulation valued at around $20k

Pulsar Calculator watches in steel and solid gold
The original 18k models sold for $3950.00 in 1975

Original Pulsar Advertising

Before going under in 1978, Pulsar introduced their very rare "Greenie"

1973 Omega TC-1 in solid 18k gold


1975 Longines LED

1976 Breitling Navitimer
(only produced one year before the LCD version)

Very rare Benrus "Pop-Up" LED Sideview
(case physically pops up when button is pressed and time is displayed)



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Omega Speedmaster "Missions" Collection

Omega Speedmaster Omega Speedmaster After the phenomenal success of the Omegamania auction this summer, Antiquorum is offering many more vintage and contemporary Omega watches at the upcoming Important Collector's Wristwatches auction on September 26th in New York City.

Highlighted here is the rare collection of commemorative Moon Mission watches, a tribute to the legendary 'Speedmaster Professional', which celebrated its 40th anniversary in 1997. Omega offered an exceptional collection of 23 Speedmaster watches presented in a case covered with genuine spacesuit cloth. The case contains a special series of 22 stainless steel Speedmaster watches, each with a different official NASA mission patch on its dial at 9 o'clock: from the August 1965 Gemini V to the November 1973 Skylab SL-4. The collection also includes a replica of the original 1957 Speedmaster. The Omega Speedmaster valise was produced in a numbered limited series of 50: 40 examples for commercial sale, including this one, plus 5 presentation sets and 5 'artist's proof' examples.

Buzz Aldrin above with his velcro'd Speedy.

Omega Speedmaster Estimated between $80,000 and $100,000
Auction-->LINK

And if you prefer the real deal like me, here are a few of their actual Omega moon watches for auction;

Omega Speedmaster 1965 Speedmaster "Pre-Moon Alpha"
est. $2000-3000
Auction-->Link

Omega Speedmaster 1969 Speedmaster Professional
est. $5000-7000
Auction-->Link

Some of the additional highlights of the Antiquorum auction-->Link


Click to find modern Speedmasters
Search for other watches


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OMEGAMANIA Preview #2 - Ursula Andress Grima Ring Watch

Ursala Andress...the original Bond girl and former owner of this jeweled Omega ring-watch by Andrew Grima, the force behind the 1969 'About Time' series for Omega. A designer of only one-of-a-kind watches including the radically futuristic (for its time) solid gold LEDs originally featured here --> Link

This 1972 ring-watch, like others by Rolex and LeCoultre, is built with very small mechanical movements but this vintage bling is iced with 28 diamonds, bark-finished platinum and a watch crystal of tourmaline. The expected price is on request only so I can only imagine...



It ain't that small at 26.5mm wide!

Related stories;
Omegamania Preview #1 - Darth & Anakin
Grima Omega Watches & Prototype LED
Bond Gadget Watches
Rolex & LeCoultre Ring Watches

OMEGAMANIA Preview #1 - 1970 Omega Seamasters "Darth & Anakin"


First of my many previews of the upcoming Omegamania thematic auction by Antiquorum. To be held on April 14th-15th in Geneva, Switzerland...Get those absentee bids in!

The two Omega models here are nicknamed the 'Darth Vader' and 'Anakin Skywalker' - Enormous Seamaster Chronographs produced in 1970 & 71. Cases so large (51mm), the cal. 861 movements are 'suspended' inside between two o-rings allowing maximum shock protection. Part of the 'durable metal' collection - The Anakin bezel is bombarded with Tungsten, a scratch resistant metal and the Darth Vader is appropriately coated in black PVD.





Vintage Bullhead Chronographs Like It On Top


Bullhead Chronographs, as they're called, feature the crown and pushers on top of the case instead of the side. Due to the rarity of the configuration, more liberties are taken in regards to the overall design, many dials are angled up for a drivers style and feature unusual dials. A long way of saying they are some of the coolest damn watches made in the sixties and seventies.


1970 Bulova Bullhead (above) with the famous Chronomatic Calibre 11, the first automatic watch with a micro-rotor. Also used in the 1969 Heuer Monaco.
Additional photos here-->Link


1969 Omega Bullhead also featuring the Chronomatic movement. A case that is much wider at the top. Very rare. Link to additional photos-->Link


1970's Seiko Speedtimer sporting a perfect seventies burnt umber fade. A more commonly found vintage Bullhead.



Enormous 70's manual wind Orator Bullhead with massive steel case and gray gradation dial. A very obscure brand and an even more rare model.


1974 Breitling Pupitre is another asymmetrical Bullhead chrono with two-tone brown dial, manual winding Valjoux 7740 movement (also came in auto Caliber 11)



The bully of the Bullheads, the 1972 60mm wide Desotos Chronograph, first featured here-->Link


Another obscure 1970's Bullhead by Fleurier, a giant chunk of metal disguised as a chronograph.


1975 Victor Chronograph, manual winding, angled case, two-tone orange/gray dial.



Two vintage 70s Sorna Chronographs with one common goal...Make you look tough as hell. Above, is the volcano cased model (similar to the Omega Speedmaster Mark III) with multi-color black, orange, green, gray dial.

Below is the even larger triangular Sorna Bullhead with world time.




'God Save the Watch' - Grima for Pulsar & Omega 1969-1975

'God Save the Watch' - Grima for Pulsar & Omega 1969-1975

1969 Grima 'About Time' for Omega

Andrew Grima, modernist jeweler and holder of a 20 year Royal Warrant of Appointment to the Queen of England. Grima created some of the rarest watches of the sixties and seventies - Most were one-of-a-kind private commissions and all are made from precious metals or gemstones.

'God Save the Watch' - Grima for Pulsar & Omega 1969-1975

Custom 18k LED top buttons

'God Save the Watch' - Grima for Pulsar & Omega 1969-1975

Alternate version w/ side buttons

Pulsar Time Computer commissioned Grima in the mid-seventies to create a small variety of solid gold LED (light emitting diode) wristwatches. Only surfacing in recent years after a liquidation of a Middle East jeweler's estate. All are one of a kind and part of Simon Alexander and Bruce Wegmann's important collection.

'God Save the Watch' - Grima for Pulsar & Omega 1969-1975

18k Bracelet LED

'God Save the Watch' - Grima for Pulsar & Omega 1969-1975

Solid White Gold LED (115 grams)

'God Save the Watch' - Grima for Pulsar & Omega 1969-1975

Hammered Gold LED

'God Save the Watch' - Grima for Pulsar & Omega 1969-1975

The entire Grima LED collection

Grima collaborated with Omega in 1969 for the 'About Time' series. Designing 85 one-offs built by 64 craftsmen in one year. All featured watches under gemstones instead of glass and one was fitted with a 28-carat emerald crystal. Very little is known about the Grima models but I've been told by an Omega representative that a book is currently being written featuring many of the 'About Time' line.

'God Save the Watch' - Grima for Pulsar & Omega 1969-1975

1969 'Gondola' Watch
18k YG w/Smoky Quartz Crystal

'God Save the Watch' - Grima for Pulsar & Omega 1969-1975

1969 'Greenland' Watch
18k YG w/ irregularly shaped Tourmaline

Andrew Grima 1965

Many thanks to:
Grima Jewellery
LED Watches.net
Simon Alexander & Bruce Wegmann

James Bond Gadget Watch History - Q-Branch Issues


Original 1962 Rolex Submariner from first 007, 'Dr. No'

James Bond generally prefers wearing a Rolex Submariner or Omega Seamaster throughout the series but when issued a specialty watch from Q-Branch, 007 has worn every gadget from Geiger counters to circular saws. Interestingly, the first James Bond, 'Dr. No' had no real gadgets at all.

Piano Wire Watch

1963's 'From Russia With Love' is the first 007 movie to introduce a multi-function watch, only it's worn by the villain, Red Grant. Fitted with a retractable piano-wire for strangulation.
Use
Grant tried to strangle Bond with the wire aboard the Orient Express during a fierce battle. However when Bond was being choked, he grabbed for his throwing knife and stabbed Grant in the leg, snatching the wire and strangling him.
Specs
An ordinary looking wrist watch, but on the side of it was a small tab, when pulled, a long steel wire would retract like a tape measure.

1965 'Thunderball' 'Geiger Counter'
Breitling 'Top Time' Diver Chrono

(No crown, no chronograph pushers)

Use
Bond gave the camera to Domino, with instructions to turn it on whilst aboard the Disco Volante, Domino did this and the device worked well. However Largo came into the room, Domino dropping it in fright, Largo was not a fool and heard the distinctive clicking noise of the Geiger counter. And began to torture Domino, who was saved by Kutze who had a change of heart when the bombing was ordered.
Specs
An ordinary small camera, common to the one's carried by tourists. However it contained a Geiger counter device, with it's reading gauge around the bezel of the lens.

Almost timing to real world watch technology innovations, Roger Moore is introduced as the new 007 and with that - some of the most inventive watches of the series are introduced in 1973's 'Live and Let Die.'

1973 'Live And Let Die'
Hamilton Pulsar 'P2 2900' LED digital watch

(non-gadget but latest technology)

Pulsar P2 LED

1973 'Live And Let Die' - Rolex 'Buzzsaw" Submariner
(spinning saw bezel used to cut free of rope)

Use
Bond firstly used his watch for a more entertaining purpose, by activating the magnet and unzipping Miss Caruso's dress. Towards the end of the mission when Bond and Solitaire were being lowered into Kananga's shark pool, Bond used the magnet to get hold of a compressed air bullet. Bond then used the mini saw to cut through the rope around his wrists and free himself. After a fight with Kananga, Bond forced the bullet into Kananga's mouth, making him "bite the bullet".
Specs
A standard looking Rolex diving watch with a few added extras:
  • High power electromagnet, which could deflect the path of a bullet
  • The bezel was equipped with a diamond cutting wheel

1973 'Live and Let Die'
Rolex 'Magnetized' Submariner Wristwatch
(Best use - Unzipping a dress,
Most utilitarian - Bullet guard)

1974 'The Spy Who Loved Me'
Seiko 0674 'Ticker Tape' Wristwatch


Use
This device was used to dispatch Bond back to headquarters. He was required to "pull out" of his current "mission", in a warmed up log cabin with a stunning blonde KGB agent.

Specs
A digital watch with an in built satellite link, short messages could be sent from MI6 and printed from the watch on a thin spool of tape.

1979 'Moonraker'
Seiko m354 Memory Bank 'Plastique Explosive' Wristwatch

(explosive coil hidden in caseback)

Use
Bond and Holly Goodhead were trapped inside the bunker of a space shuttle's launch pad, under it's rocket boosters. Time quickly running out, Bond removed the explosive, stuck it to a welded exhaust grate and blew it off the wall, making for an easy escape.
Specs
A digital watch, with an extended back-plate that could be removed to reveal a small but powerful explosive charge and a detonator wire. The explosive is removed and the detonator wire plugs into the side of the watch, a button detonates the explosive at a safe distance.

Octopussy Wrist Dart Gun
(replica)

Use
Bond used the wrist dart gun 3 times, once saving his life. Firstly he tested it out in M's office by firing a dart into a painting. Bond's life saving came, when he was in a centrifuge, the control room was taken over by Drax's henchman Chang, who turned up the G's to a lethal volume. Bond flicked his wrist, firing an amour piercer into the overridden stop button, stopping the machine with a short circuit. Lastly Bond used a poison tip to kill Drax, firing it into his heart and forcing him though an airlock into space.
Specs
A small gun like device propelled the darts by using pressurised gas, good for 10 firings before refill. The poison tipped darts, were coated with concentrated cyanide, the amour piercing dart had cores of depleted uranium - like the ammunition used in large bore military machine guns.

1981 'For Your Eyes Only'
Seiko H357 Analog Digital Display with scrolling LED message bar

(also Dick Tracy style two-way radio)

Use
A newer version of Bond's mothballed ticker tape watch, the Voice Link watch. Beeped at Bond, just as he was ready for a moonlight swim, Bond threw the watch to Melina Havelock's pet parrot. None other than Margaret Thatcher was on the other end of the line from 10 Downing Street, where Q had wired up the phone to the satellite link.
Specs
A digital/analogue combination watch, with a built-in satellite phone to receive calls direct from MI6.

1983 'Octopussy'
Seiko Liquid Crystal TV Watch


Use

Isn't it obvious?



1983 'Octopussy' Seiko G757 Sports 100
Homing Device/Hidden Microphone Monitor

1995 'Golden Eye' Omega Seamaster
Laser emitting, explosive device wristwatch

1997 'Tomorrow Never Dies' Omega Seamaster
Detonator Watch

1999 'World Is Not Enough' Omega Seamaster
Dual Laser/Grappling Hook Watch

Use
"Goldeneye": When Bond and Natalya got trapped inside the ICBM train, surrounded by one-inch thick amour plating. As Natalya pounded away at a computer keyboard trying to trace Boris' location, Bond activated the laser cutter on his watch and proceeded to cut a manhole in the floor of train. With seconds left, Bond ripped Natalya away from the computer, the two dived through the man hole, and ran from the train seconds before it exploded. Later in the mission, Bond had a series of magnetic mines activated in Trevelyan's HQ, and his watch could arm or disarm the mines. Trevelyan, being a former MI6 agent, knew about Bond's watch, he took it from Bond and disarmed the mines.
"Tomorrow Never Dies": Bond picks up a new version of the Omega courtesy of Wai Lin's stock of gadgets. Bond uses the detachable remote detonator to make a booby trap with a grenade and a glass jar. When Bond needs a diversion after Carver shoots his hostage, Gupta, 007 triggers the detonator causing the grenade to pop free and self-arm.
"The World Is Not Enough": Bond first uses the watch to illuminate the inside of the inflated bubble ski jacket whilst himself and Elektra are trapped in an avalanche. The watch is useful later, when stuck in an inspection pit in the nuclear bunker, Bond fires the piton wire to jump 50 feet.
Specs
An Omega Seamaster with blue face and bezel. Modified to incorporate a high-power laser diode, capable of cutting through two inches of steel. It was also equipped with a button used to arm and disarm the magnetic mines.
Wai Lin's gadget masters incorporate a detachable detonator into the watch for "Tomorrow Never Dies". Bond notes they have a newer version than his Quartermaster at MI6.
For "The World Is Not Enough", the watch is fitted with a miniature grappling hook which includes a 50 foot high tensile micro filament, able to support 800 pounds. Bond puts this into use to escape a potentially explosive situation. Q-Branch has also incorporated dual high-powered lasers into the design, and the casing is made from titanium.

2006 'Casino Royale'
Back to basics with gadgetless Omega Seamaster
Special thanks to;M16
Pocket Calculator Show
James McMahon
James Bond Dot Com
The Watchismo Times is now 'The Minutes' - Check it out!Salvador Dali's "La Prémonition des Tiroirs" Premonition of the Drawers 1973 Table ClockOmega Reissues the Famous Ploprof Divers Watch - 1970s Jacques Cousteau CollaborationLook at Legendary LEDs of Lloyd's Large CollectionOmega Speedmaster "Missions" CollectionOMEGAMANIA Preview #2 - Ursula Andress Grima Ring WatchOMEGAMANIA Preview #1 - 1970 Omega Seamasters "Darth & Anakin"Vintage Bullhead Chronographs Like It On TopJames Bond Gadget Watch History - Q-Branch Issues

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