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THE WATCHISMO TIMES WATCH BLOG A reliquary of obscure timepieces from bygone eras as well as the cutting-edge watch designs of today.

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The HALOGRAPH Automatic by XERIC is Live on Kickstarter

HALOGRAPH-EMAIL-BANNER

KICKSTART This Mechanical Heart

The HALOGRAPH is not an electronic gadget: it's a mechanical heirloom

The Kickstarter Campaign Starts Now!
We need your support to make this cool & affordable limited edition mechanical watch a reality and if you're quick, take advantage of the Early Bird rewards.
The HALOGRAPH is super easy to read. As the Halo hands float over the dimensional, hemicycle time display arcs, they encircle the hour and minute of the current time. The inner arcs display the hours, the outer arcs displays the minutes.
Like the chambers of a beating mechanical heart, the twin balance wheels pump life into this complex time machine. Seeing the action of a living machine on your wrist gives a thrill no electronic gadget can.
We created the HALOGRAPH to be more elliptical than other mechanical watches, with a 5mm high double-curved domed-crystal and rounded forms throughout the design. This reflects our obsession with the infinite nature of time.

PRE-ORDER YOUR HALOGRAPH HERE

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XERIC HALOGRAPH Automatic Rosegold HLG-3018
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Why choose a mechanical watch over a smartwatch today?
A smartwatch starts to die as soon as its circuitry is activated, and its functional obsolescence starts as soon as it's off the assembly line. A mechanical watch will never be obsolete. It will always connect you in a meaningful way with this moment in time. With the HALOGRAPH Automatic, we think we've designed a v1.0 that 'nailed it' the first time, and will be as exceptional in form and function in hundreds of years as it is now.
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XERIC HALOGRAPH Automatic Gunmetal HLG-3017
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XERIC HALOGRAPH Automatic Black HLG-3014
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XERIC HALOGRAPH Automatic Gold HLG-3020
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XERIC HALOGRAPH Automatic Tan HLG-3015
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XERIC HALOGRAPH Automatic Silver HLG-3016
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VOID VO2 Watch New Release! Half the Time Makes for a Whole New Timing Experience!

VOID VO2 Watch New Release!  Half the Time Makes for a Whole New Timing Experience!We're very excited about the new release from VOID Watches...the V02 collection expands their already stylish designs with their trademark steel block case.

But this time they've put a cool twist on the display. It's a retrograde of sorts, not a flyback but rather a half dial with double hands. Each with different lengths and corresponding markers measured and colored to match the hours and minutes viewed on the dashboard style display. As each hand rotates along the semi-circle markers, they reach the end (upper left) and go out of view allowing the opposite longer or shorter hand to come into view on the opposite side.

A long story short, the circular style of traditional analog displays are thrown out the window with this cool new watch from VOID! (plus the prices are really good - around $200 USD)


A year after launching the successful V01, the V02 is the analogue extension of the digital V01 using the exact same geometry with a delicately proportioned half glass, half stainless steel front, but with a classic speedometer looking dial.

VOID VO2 Watch New Release!  Half the Time Makes for a Whole New Timing Experience!
The V02 uses two ‘compass needle’ hands, the short hand representing the hours and the long the minutes as on any other watch. Each hand has one red and one white end where each color corresponds to the number with the matching color on the dial.

The design draws heavily on the Scandinavian design tradition using simple geometries and materials often found in architecture. The solid stainless steel case comes in four different colors/surfaces (black, brushed, polished and gold). The main objective has been to create a unique product using as simple geometries as possible and bring them to life by using honest, traditional materials.

VOID VO2 Watch New Release!  Half the Time Makes for a Whole New Timing Experience!VOID - In astronomy, voids are the empty spaces between filaments, the largest-scale structures in the Universe, that contain very few, or no, galaxies. Voids typically have a diameter of 40 to 500 million light years.

VOID VO2 Watch New Release!  Half the Time Makes for a Whole New Timing Experience!VOID V02 Brushed Stainless Steel

Illustration of the time-telling mechanism:

VOID VO2 Watch New Release!  Half the Time Makes for a Whole New Timing Experience!

VOID VO2 Watch New Release!  Half the Time Makes for a Whole New Timing Experience!


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Urwerk King Cobra CC1 Reintrepretation of 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra Prototype - Cylindrical Retrograde Linear Jumping Hour Display

Urwerk King Cobra CC1 Reintrepretation of 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra Prototype - Cylindrical Retrograde Linear Jumping Hour DisplayI started this blog nearly three years ago and the watch that started it all was the very obscure 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra -- A timepiece so advanced for its time, only one prototype was ever produced.

It has taken over half a century for someone to take it seriously and attempt a reinterpretation -- Urwerk, the coolest independent brand in the world has just introduced the "King Cobra UR CC1", an unexpected follow-up to their revolutionary Tarantula and Hammerhead series and a serious nod to the masterpiece originally created by Louis Cottier.

Urwerk King Cobra CC1 Reintrepretation of 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra Prototype - Cylindrical Retrograde Linear Jumping Hour Display
Urwerk King Cobra CC1 Reintrepretation of 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra Prototype - Cylindrical Retrograde Linear Jumping Hour Display
Geneva – September 2009

Time is usually - nearly always - displayed by a circular indication: one dial and two (or three) with the time displayed around a perpetual circle. However, this 360° representation of time goes against everything we learnt as we grew up drawing a straight line on a blank page and marking it Past, Present and Future. Why do we think of time as travelling in a straight line yet display it rotating around a circle? The answer is straightforward: mechanisms that continually rotate are much simpler to produce than those that trace a straight line then return to zero. In fact, the latter is so difficult that, until now, nobody has ever managed to develop a production wristwatch with true retrograde linear displays.

Urwerk King Cobra CC1 Reintrepretation of 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra Prototype - Cylindrical Retrograde Linear Jumping Hour DisplayLinear. On the UR-CC1, there are two horizontal indications displayed by two retrograde cylinders: one for the (jumping) hours, the other for the minutes. And don't be lulled by the apparent simplicity of the displays; the UR-CC1 is the result of more than three years of research, development, production and testing to ensure that the rotation and instant fly-back of the large hour and minute cylinders was achieved without compromising accurate timekeeping.

Urwerk King Cobra CC1 Reintrepretation of 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra Prototype - Cylindrical Retrograde Linear Jumping Hour Display
Urwerk King Cobra CC1 Reintrepretation of 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra Prototype - Cylindrical Retrograde Linear Jumping Hour Display
Triple-cam. A vertical triple-cam operating a rack (visible through a window in the side of the case) rotates the minute cylinder. From zero to 60 minutes, the minute cylinder rotates through 300°. On arriving at the 60-minute mark the cylinder instantly (1/10th of a second) reverses back to its original position thanks to an extra-flat linear spring. The retrograde movement of the minute cylinder triggers the hour cylinder to advance (jump) one complete hour.

The triple-cam is crafted from bronze beryllium, a metal selected for its inherently self-lubricating properties and low co-efficient of friction, and takes the form of three small inclines. The precise shape of the curve of the incline is relayed to the pivoting rack, while the teeth on the end of the rack mesh with and rotate the minute cylinder. The triple-cam makes a complete rotation in three hours so that each of the three inclines takes 60 minutes, and 180 points of reference have been calculated on each of the three cams to ensure the precise and isochronic rotation of the minute cylinder.

Urwerk King Cobra CC1 Reintrepretation of 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra Prototype - Cylindrical Retrograde Linear Jumping Hour Display

Urwerk King Cobra CC1 Reintrepretation of 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra Prototype - Cylindrical Retrograde Linear Jumping Hour DisplayRack: The toothed segment at the end of the rack transmits and transforms the rotation triple-cam into the rotation of the minute cylinder. The toothed rack presents two properties that at first appear contradictory: absolute rigidity, so as to accurately transmit the motion of the cam to the minute cylinder; and extremely low mass to consume as little energy as possible and minimise the effects of gravity and accelerations/shocks. This vital component has been fabricated in nickel by Mimotec using their photolithography process. The honeycomb pattern of the nickel structure resolves the two apparently contradictory requirements of maximum strength and minimum weight.


Urwerk King Cobra CC1 Reintrepretation of 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra Prototype - Cylindrical Retrograde Linear Jumping Hour Display
Urwerk King Cobra CC1 Reintrepretation of 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra Prototype - Cylindrical Retrograde Linear Jumping Hour Display

Seconds disk: The dial of the UR-CC1 is animated by a rotating disk displaying the seconds both digitally and linearly – a world first! This incredible exploit was achieved thanks to Mimotec’s photolithography production technique, which enabled the component to be fabricated from ultra-light nickel; the procedure is even more precise than electro-erosion. To reduce mass to an absolute minimum, the minuscule numerals were even skeletonised. A small tab at 10 seconds bearing the URWERK logo precisely counterbalances the disk's single-digit numbers. This marvel of micro-precision weighs only 0.09 grams.

Rotor Fly Brake: UR-CC1 features URWERK’s pneumatic shock-absorbing Rotor Fly Brake automatic winding system, which minimizes rotor and mechanism wear and damage from shock and harsh movements. The operation of the Rotor Fly Brake is visible through a window on the side of the case.

Urwerk King Cobra CC1 Reintrepretation of 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra Prototype - Cylindrical Retrograde Linear Jumping Hour Display

Urwerk King Cobra CC1 Reintrepretation of 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra Prototype - Cylindrical Retrograde Linear Jumping Hour DisplayTechnical Specifications:

Model: UR-CC1

Case: available in either grey gold with titanium case back (limited edition of 25 pieces) or black gold with titanium case back (limited edition of 25 pieces); brushed-satin finish

Movement: calibre UR-CC1; automatic winding regulated by “fly brake turbine” pneumatic shock absorber

Indications: linear display for hours and minutes with jumping hours and retrograde minutes ; second display both digital and linear

Dimensions: 45.7mm x 43.5mm x 15mm

Dial and Bridges: ARCAP P40. SuperLumiNova treatment on hours, minutes displays

Genesis of a creation

1958. Messrs Gilbert Albert and Louis Cottier combine their talents to create a watch destined to revolutionize the horological world. Their idea is completely outrageous: it is the world’s first watch to feature a linear display. It is an extraordinary, avant-garde piece that fulfils none of the aesthetic criteria of the time. As for its linear indication, the idea may seem simple but the execution is a technical headache of monumental proportions. However Messrs Albert and Cottier believe in it and they stick with it, creating a prototype for Patek Philippe.

Urwerk King Cobra CC1 Reintrepretation of 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra Prototype - Cylindrical Retrograde Linear Jumping Hour Display 1959. A patent is deposited by Louis Cottier, detailing the technical scale of the achievement. Then – nothing. The prototype is put on to one side. Does the watch even work? Today nobody knows for sure. It took its place in the corner of the Patek Philippe museum and proceeded to arouse curiosity from time to time.

1998. With pencil and paper Martin Frei, co-founder of the URWERK brand and an aesthete at heart, sketches the first outline of his future creation: a watch in which the hours and minutes are indicated by two straight, parallel lines. But he hesitates. With Felix Baumgartner, master watch-maker and co-founder of URWERK, another idea springs to mind – the concept of the hour satellite, presented for the first time at Basel. The earlier project is postponed, sine die.

Urwerk King Cobra CC1 Reintrepretation of 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra Prototype - Cylindrical Retrograde Linear Jumping Hour Display 2006. URWERK is henceforth known and recognized for its mechanical hour satellite watches in which orbiting hour satellites indicate the minutes. But the idea of developing a different way of telling the time continues to fascinate Felix Baumgartner. In the end it is the Alfred Hitchcock film “The Birds” that gives him the decisive nudge in the right direction. In one of the most famous scenes from the film, the heroine seeks refuge in an old Dodge. The image lasts only a few seconds but it is crucial – a close-up of the dashboard and its linear speedometer. Yes. That’s it! A continuous line with which to mark time. Felix and Martin work non-stop on this new project. Their research leads them to the discovery of Gilbert Albert and Louis Cottier’s watch. It will be their “muse”.

2009. Three years of research. One year of testing. URWERK’s “King Cobra” is unveiled. ‘CC’ for Cottier Cobra, a homage to the genius of Louis Cottier, inventor and creator. Once more, URWERK redefines our vision of fine watchmaking and pushes back the frontiers of the possible.

The original 1958 Cobra

Urwerk King Cobra CC1 Reintrepretation of 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra Prototype - Cylindrical Retrograde Linear Jumping Hour Display

Urwerk King Cobra CC1 Reintrepretation of 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra Prototype - Cylindrical Retrograde Linear Jumping Hour Display
Urwerk King Cobra CC1 Reintrepretation of 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra Prototype - Cylindrical Retrograde Linear Jumping Hour Display
Urwerk King Cobra CC1 Reintrepretation of 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra Prototype - Cylindrical Retrograde Linear Jumping Hour DisplayOriginal Prototype Movement

Urwerk King Cobra CC1 Reintrepretation of 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra Prototype - Cylindrical Retrograde Linear Jumping Hour Display

Watchmaker Felix Baumgartner

I am not big on nostalgia, but I have always loved the linear speedometers found on old cars. My older brother had a 1960’s Volvo and it was that which gave us the first idea for a horological linear indication. I recently watched the film ‘The Birds’ by Alfred Hitchcock, and in it the heroine took refuge in an old Dodge with a linear speedometer- it is one of my favourite scenes. There are very few wristwatches with linear indications. One of them, if not the first, was ‘The Cobra’, which was developed in the late 1950s by Mr. Louis Cottier. It is sensational! Although it was created over half a century ago, it is still very contemporary. Unfortunately, it only exists as a single prototype and was never put into production. Now, 50 years after he filed his patent (1959), URWERK pays homage to the work of Louis Cottier by creating its own interpretation of the Cobra. -Felix Baumgartner

Urwerk King Cobra CC1 Reintrepretation of 1958 Patek Philippe Cobra Prototype - Cylindrical Retrograde Linear Jumping Hour Display

Designer Martin Frei

I am interested in the perception of time. Physicists tell us that time can be warped or stretched, and our daily experiences are with the circular cycles of the days, seasons and years. But I am also intrigued that time can be ordered, even straitjacketed, to flow in a linear direction - a straight line from the past, through the present, to the future. And, because this can represent an individual’s lifeline, I feel that this linear format can be a very human way to look at time. That plus the fact that I think it looks really cool! -Martin Frei

Additional presentation party photos by Ian Skellern of Horomundi

Urwerk Website Link


Related Posts;
Urwerk Tarantula
Urwerk Hammerhead
Urwerk TiAIN 103.08
Interview with Martin Frei
Urwerk Time Bandit
Urwerk Visit


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Pierre Kunz Retrograde Vertigo & Spirit Diver Tube Depth Gauge Watches

Pierre Kunz Retrograde Vertigo & Spirit Diver Tube Depth Gauge WatchesTwo new models from Pierre Kunz. The "Vertigo" with linear retrograde hour indicator on left, rising and falling with each 12 hour cycle and compartmentalized minutes and seconds in the displays on the right.

Pierre Kunz Retrograde Vertigo & Spirit Diver Tube Depth Gauge Watches
Pierre Kunz Retrograde Vertigo & Spirit Diver Tube Depth Gauge WatchesVertigo movement

Pierre Kunz Retrograde Vertigo & Spirit Diver Tube Depth Gauge WatchesSecondly, the Pierre Kunz "Spirit Diver" with a depth gauge (up to 80 meters) inside a sapphire tube fixed to the left side of the case and rotating disc for seconds.

Pierre Kunz Retrograde Vertigo & Spirit Diver Tube Depth Gauge Watches
via Selectism

Related Stories on The Watchismo Times;

All Diver Watch Posts
All Watches with Retrograde Functions

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The 2008 Hautlence HLQ

Hautlence has just introduced the HLQ, their first round models along with new styles of their HLS collection.


Via Horomundi



Hautlence HLQ Video->Link (Transformers style action begins at 0:42)

Related;
All Hautlence Stories-->Link

See also;
Hautlence website->Link


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Domo arigato, Mr. Roboto - The Vintage Tin Robot Inspired "Mr. Roboto" Prototype from Azimuth

Domo arigato, Mr. Roboto - The Vintage Tin Robot Inspired I doubt Styx will be performing their nightmarishly bad 80s classic "Mr. Roboto" in Basel for the unveiling of the Azimuth's new timepiece but I'm sure they could use a gig...

Mr Roboto - Azimuth’s Hallmark Creation from the Mecha–1 BMF Collection

The Revival of the Tin Robot Generation

Fans of the vintage tin robot era can now embrace their fantasy of robotic warrior literally and get their first chance to see Azimuth’s Mr Roboto, prototype watch of the World’s First tin robot concept of the 1950s.


Domo arigato, Mr. Roboto - The Vintage Tin Robot Inspired Vintage 50s Lantern Tin Robots

Decades after World War II saw a proliferation of battery-operated tin robots. Originated from Japan, these whimsical creations demonstrate notions of human behavior. Their flying sparks and mechanical gestures captured the imagination of not just children but adults around the globe. Almost half a century later, original and replica tin robot toys have become a collector’s item.

The design of Mr Roboto was inspired by the Lantern Robot of the 1950s. Azimuth’s designers show that a timepiece’s practical functionality does not have to take a back seat to aesthetic visual designs. Witness the perfect marriage of ingenious design and user-friendly functions, this good-looker is set to be a head-turner at this year’s Basel show. A unique timepiece that transcends time, Mr Roboto aims to revive the passion of the tin robot generation of enthusiasts and enduring science fiction lovers.

Mr Roboto’s visual appeal embodies the full-flavor revival of vintage tin robotic spaceman. The placements lend for easy reading and a radical tin robot visual appearance. The left ‘eye’ is the hour register, right ‘eye’ comes with GMT indication, the nose region joint with the mouth region are the seconds and retrograde minutes placements respectively. Mr Roboto is powered by a modified ETA 2836-2 movement. The robust case is forged out of hardy steel blocks with a warm touch of bevelled edges at the sides of the tonneau shaped timepiece.

True to the name Azimuth, which means route taken by a traveller, Mr Roboto adds to the Azimuth’s Mecha-1 BMF collection of watches which is a synergy of avant-garde design and industrial machismo.

Listed international retail price for the iconic Mr Roboto watch is approximately 4,800.00 Swiss Francs ($4,800). Mr Roboto is available from September 2008.

Specifications:
Movement: ETA 2836-2 Modified Automatic Winding; 25 Jewels
Functions: GMT function; Hours register, Retrograde Minutes, Seconds

Case: 316L stainless steel with Torx drive cheese head tamper resistant screws, Bevelled edges at the sides of the tonneau shaped watch. Magnified hours and GMT functions in the form of convex ‘eyes’,

Dimension 43mm x 50mm with 24mm lugs. Water resistant to 50 meters.

via Timezone

Domo arigato, Mr. Roboto - The Vintage Tin Robot Inspired Mr. Roboto CAD renderings

Azimuth watches of previous years (below)

Domo arigato, Mr. Roboto - The Vintage Tin Robot Inspired 2007 Azimuth Chrono Gauge Mecha-1 BMF

Domo arigato, Mr. Roboto - The Vintage Tin Robot Inspired 2006 Azimuth Gauge Mecha

Domo arigato, Mr. Roboto - The Vintage Tin Robot Inspired 20007 Azimuth Round 1 Bi-Retrograde


Domo arigato, Mr. Roboto - The Vintage Tin Robot Inspired 2007 Azimuth SP-1 Mechanique concept watch.


Related posts;
Telechron Robot Clock
Azimuth Chrono Gauge Mecha-1 BMF
Azimuth Gauge Mecha Concept
1980s Transformers Watch Commercials
Insect Lab Studio
Watch Part Motorcycles
All New 2008 Watch Posts-->Link


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Rare Recovered Retrograde Wristwatches - Two 1972 Wittnauer Sector Futurama 1000

Rare Recovered Retrograde Wristwatches - Two 1972 Wittnauer Sector Futurama 1000There were very few double-retrograde watches made in the early seventies but here are two of the very best. The vintage automatic winding "Futurama 1000" by Wittnauer featured only two styles, silver dial and black dial with hours and minutes displayed in an arc (hours on left, minutes on right). As each hand travels to the bottom, they fly-back to the top rather than circularly rotate. These two are particularly fine examples each with their original bracelets. Deep-set magnified portholes for date display.

Black dial (shown above displaying 11:10)-->Link
Silver dial (shown below displaying 11:12)-->Link

Rare Recovered Retrograde Wristwatches - Two 1972 Wittnauer Sector Futurama 1000
Related Posts;
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All Retrograde Watch Stories



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Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2

Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2An exciting evening out on the town for the reclusive Watchismo Times! I had the honor of meeting Maximilian Büsser and his new child, the Horological Machine No.2! And for some strange reason, Max trusted me enough to hold his bolted baby even though I almost dropped it into the Bolognese sauce...

Personally, I think he just pulled it out of an antique alien submarine control panel and put a strap on it.

Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2After decades learning and conforming to the rules of corporate watchmaking, Maximilian Büsser broke the chains and started a rebellion - a rebellion called MB&F.

MB&F is an artistic and micro-engineering concept laboratory in which changing collectives of independent horological professionals are assembled each year to design and craft radical Horological Machines.

The ramifications of these audacious projects are profound. By respecting tradition without being shackled by it, MB&F acts as a catalyst in fusing traditional high-quality watchmaking with cutting-edge technology and avant-garde three-dimensional kinetic sculpture.

MB&F's first timepiece, Horological Machine No.1, wrote the first chapter in the story of the revolution, Horological Machine No.2 continues the adventure.

Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2Each of HM2's twin portholes allows the viewer a different perspective of time. On the right, the Jumping Hours and Concentric Retrograde Minutes reveals time up close and 'now', while the Retrograde Date and Bi-Hemisphere Moon Phase on the left dial allows the viewer to take a step back from immediacy and relax.

Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2Horological Machine No.2 (HM2) is a holistically conceived and engineered three-dimensional timekeeping machine for the wrist. The functions and indications were specifically conceived to tailor to the strengths of HM2's chief watchmaker, Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. The bespoke architecture of the highly technical movement was developed to both fit and complement the radical form of the modular case. HM2 is the world's first mechanical movement offering: Instantaneous Jump Hour, Concentric Retrograde Minutes, Retrograde Date, Bi-Hemisphere Moon Phase and Automatic Winding.

With over 450 components making up its case and movement HM2 is an incredible sophisticated machine; however, its complexity has been engineered for simple and trouble free functionality.

The movement features an extremely energy efficient Jump Hour/Retrograde mechanism developed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. Wiederrecht's exclusive (and patented) asymmetrical-tooth gear wheels ensure high precision and play-free functionality.

The realisation of HM2’s complex case shape - with its architectural volume, bold flying buttresses, bolted portholes and sliding crown guard - was only made possible by using an innovative modular approach: a method inspired by the Meccano sets (similar to Erector sets) of Maximilian Büsser's childhood.

Horological Machine No.2 is full of dynamic tension between apparently incongruous elements. Tension between cutting-edge technology and sculptural art, matte textures and mirror-polishes, high-tech alloys and precious metals and tension between traditional watchmaking and 21st century micro-engineering. This vibrant tension is amplified by the interplay of light and colour off the varied finishes, textures and shapes, and gives the machine its pulsing vitality.

Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2
Inspiration and Realization: MB&F is first and foremost about people and the key person behind Horological Machine No.2 is Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. It was 9 years ago, in Maximilian Büsser's former position as Managing Director of Harry Winston Timepieces, that Büsser first began working with Wiederrecht and found him to be imaginative, inventive and sharing in the same human values. Wiederrecht and his company Agenhor are world leaders in Retrograde and Jumping Hour mechanisms and Büsser conceived HM2's functions specifically to play to these strengths.

The case, with its flying buttresses, bolted portholes and sliding crown guard, was so complex - over 100 components go into its construction alone - that it could only be developed with an innovative modular method inspired by the Meccano sets of Maximilian Büsser's childhood. And in line with best engineering principles, this modularity also simplifies future refurbishment of the case should it ever be necessary.

Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2Architecture: The principal feature of Horological Machine No.2 is the holistic symbiosis between the three dimensional architecture of both the case and the movement. The sheer complexity of the case design necessitated a modular approach to construction. More than 100 components go into the assembly of the case alone - that is more parts than make up many complete movements! While extremely complex to fabricate, this bolted-not-welded engineering allows maximum flexibility in design and enables a rich variety of materials and finishes to be used.

Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2Technical Innovations: The principle technical challenge in developing the movement was ensuring that the jumping hour functioned both instantaneously and simultaneously when the retrograde minute flies back from 60 to 0. And not only instantaneously, but also without using excessive energy. The usual method of activating Jumping Hour indications is to store energy in the minutes before the change to power the jump; however, while this energy is being accumulated it takes power from the balance causing it to loose amplitude - an effect detrimental to time-keeping precision. Wiederrecht's solution was as brilliant as it was simple: he designed a ingenious mechanism so that when the minutes fly back, a snail on the minute mechanism hits the hour star causing the hour to jump. The hour jumps instantaneously with the minutes because it is triggered by the minutes and, as the jump is powered by the energy of the minutes flying back, it has virtually no effect on the amplitude of the balance.

Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2The complication has another very special feature. Specific gears in HM2's movement are manufactured to extremely high precision using Mimotec's UV-LIGA technology. These gears mesh together with a virtually a no-tolerance/no-play engagement. Normally, gears interacting this tightly would bind; however, Wiederrecht's patented asymmetrical-split-tooth gear design ensures this does not occur. The high precision of this gearing enables very accurate time-setting and offers high reliability.

To maximise the efficiency of MB&F's already iconic double Hakken automatic rotor, one of the 22kt gold blades was machined down to a razor sharp edge of just 0.2mm - a dimension which pushed the very limits of micro-machining.

The innovative sliding crown guard clearly indicates its position (in or out) and facilitates access to time-setting and quick date correcting.

And now for some candid shots of the new brood. (photographed by and courtesy of Felipe Jordão, the independent horology moderator at Timezone.com - all his photos can be seen here-->Link

Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2The MB&F Clan (HM1 & HM2)

Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2
Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2
Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2
Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2What watch do I wear to such an event?
Well, my cuffbusting vintage Desotos

Haute Steampunk! Attack of the Horological Machine No.2Max, Watchismo, and the HM2

Priced at $59,000 (US) and in larger editions than the $150,000 HM1.

MB&F website-->LINK

All MB&F related posts-->LINK

Want more? Jack Forster's HM2 article for Horomundi-->LINK



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Vintage Watching - LIP Sector Retrograde, Unusual Heuer, and a Sandoz Mystery Dial

Vintage Watching - LIP Sector Retrograde, Unusual Heuer, and a Sandoz Mystery DialClick to view LIP Retrograde auction

This week on Vintage Watching, I'm featuring one of my favorite watches, the 1973 LIP sector retrograde. They came in a few styles and rarely found for sale. The one above features double retrograde hands (they fly back to the left instantly when reaching the far right) showing hours on bottom and minutes on top.

Vintage Watching - LIP Sector Retrograde, Unusual Heuer, and a Sandoz Mystery DialClick to view the Heuer Auction

Just when I think I've seen every oddball Heuer chronograph of the sixties & seventies, I stumble upon another like the one above. Featuring a very unusual off center 60 minute register. (Update - This might be a fake according to vintage Heuer expert Jeff of OnTheDash.com) Oh well...


Vintage Watching - LIP Sector Retrograde, Unusual Heuer, and a Sandoz Mystery DialClick to view Sandoz Mystery Dial auction

I've seen a few interesting vintage mystery dials from Sandoz, but this unusual 70's "Duplex" above features double-sided hour and minute hands that alternate in length and color when rotating into the visible top portion of the dial. Paul Smith also created a contemporary watch with this style of display->link. Day and month are displayed vertically in the lower obscured hemisphere. Supercool!

Related Posts;
Retrograde Watches
Mystery Dials
Vintage Heuer



Enter The Watchismo Times 1st anniversary vintage chronograph giveway!-->LINK


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Rare Raunchy Retrograde

Rare Raunchy RetrogradeAn interesting little flyback sector double retrograde watch by Jozef Op de Beeck appeared here-->Link

The hours on the lower right, minutes on the upper left, both indicated by hands that fly-back diagonally across the dial. And it's not really raunchy like some graphic antique automaton watches, but does have a few bas-reliefs of a naked lady lounging on the bezel.

Rare Raunchy Retrograde
Related posts;
1900 Sector Retrograde
Wandering Hour History
Retired Retrogradation
Erotic Antique Automaton



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