close

Watchismo Times | category: sihh

home

Watchismo Times

THE WATCHISMO TIMES WATCH BLOG A reliquary of obscure timepieces from bygone eras as well as the cutting-edge watch designs of today.

watchismo.blogspot.com

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your Veins

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your VeinsThe Urwerk Tarantula, a brand new design from the Lennon and McCartney of the watch world - actually.. correction, the Jagger and Richards since Time is on Their Side. Watchmaker Felix Baumgartner and designer Martin Frei are appropriately at the Let It Bleed of their career.

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your Veins
Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your Veins
The ‘T’ in the 103T is at first a mystery, but only until the first look down through the massive sapphire crystal into the mechanism below. There you will sense a shape before you see it. A form slowly emerges from the orbital cross and stretches its mesmerising legs: ‘T’ for Tarantula. URWERK’s latest addition to the UR103 collection has a few genetic codes borrowed from one of the most famous members of the world of arachnids.

In the UR103T, the titanium cross has been replaced by a completely redesigned structure in ARCAP, a very stable copper/nickel alloy. The dark ARCAP wraps around the hour satellites in a protective embrace. This new configuration ensures that the numbers on the hour satellites can only be seen when they are required to tell the time while passing the arc of the minutes.
The actual mechanism for rotating the satellites has been completely modified on the UR103T. With this model the satellites rotate simultaneously behind the scenes in multiple stages, in preparation for their turn to indicate the time. They actually perform a four-beat 480° pirouette. Each satellite turns four 120° turns in the period between leaving the minute arc and arriving again with a new numeral displaying. The orbital satellite complication is over 300 times heavier than traditional hands, a factor that requires absolute precision in the manufacture of its minuscule components, and in assembling, balancing and regulating the complication to obtain an excellent chronometric performance.

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your VeinsThe Time Spider

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your VeinsUrwerk Tarantula's fangs reach deep into your wrist

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your VeinsYou can almost see the blood dripping from the wound

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your Veins
Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your VeinsAn early Urwerk with covered case, cool as %$#@!

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your VeinsThe Maestro Baumgartner

URWERK website-->LINK

All Urwerk Posts at The Watchismo Times-->LINK


Wristshots via Horomundi


| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |

Urwerk 202 Hammerhead Automatic at 2008 SIHH

From Urwerk's presentation of the new UR-202 Twin Turbine-->Link

UR202 Promotional Video-->Link

The UR-202 is the world’s first watch with the winding rate regulated by fluid dynamics.

As long ago as the 18th century, clockmakers were using air friction to regulate the speed of chiming clocks, and their techniques evolved to become the preferred method of regulating the rate of chimes on minute-repeaters.

With the UR-202, URWERK have taken the traditional idea of using air friction and refined it to control the rate of automatic winding.
The traditional rotating vanes of the past have been replaced by cutting-edge miniature twin turbines - miniature air compressors - which can be seen spinning on the back of the watch.


Urwerk turbines

The UR-202’s twin turbines are coupled with the winding rotor. According to the position of the selector lever, the turbines act as shock absorbers.
In normal activity they cushion sharp movements of the rotor. This reduces wear and increases the lifespan of the movement.
While the selector position is continuously variable, the three principal positions are: normal activity, where the turbines spin freely; vigorous activity, where the air pressure generated by the turbines reduces the winding rate by approximately 35%; and extreme activity, where the turbines and rotor are fully blocked.


The turbine system is totally self-contained within the waterproof case. The air flows from under the turbines and is channeled up past them under a sapphire plate and down through holes leading to a tiny air chamber.

The turbines are controlled by a 3-position selector switch. This functions by adjusting the level of air compression the turbines generate by selectively regulating the amount of air flowing from inside the case.

The spinning turbines force air through holes into a tiny air chamber. The selector switch controls the amount of air escaping from the turbines.
By restricting the airflow, it increases the air pressure and slows down the turbines and the winding rotor.


The UR-202 also features URWERK’s patented Revolving Satellite Complication with telescopic minutes hands.

The Revolving Satellite Complication displays time using telescopic minutes hands operating through the middle of three orbiting and revolving hours satellites. The telescopic minutes hands precisely adjust their length to follow the three sectors marking the minutes: 0-14, 15-44, 45-60.

Extended, they enable the UR-202 to display the time across a large, easy-to-read dial. Retracted, they allow for a very wearable and comfortably sized case.


Photo->Link


Related Posts;
ALL URWERK STORIES-->Link

See Also;
Urwerk Website->Link
Ian Skellern's (R)Evolution of Urwerk->Link
Horomundi's Complete Urwerk Story->Link



Urwerk's first model, the Nightwatch Wandering Hour



| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |


Subscribe to The Watchismo Times
Enter your email

Delivered by FeedBurner

Phenomenal Photos of the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Tourbillon

Phenomenal Photos of the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso TourbillonThe Purists have posted some pretty amazing shots of the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 as well as some brain busting technical information.

Report-->Link


Phenomenal Photos of the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Tourbillon
See Also;
All Jaeger LeCoultre Posts
All Tourbillon Posts

All New 2008 Watch Posts-->Link


| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |


Subscribe to The Watchismo Times
Enter your email

Delivered by FeedBurner

SIHH Premiere - Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon

Debuting in April 2008 at SIHH in Geneva, Jaeger LeCoultre will be introducing another mindblowing Gyrotourbillon movement but this time as part of the Reverso collection. The Gyrotourbillon features a spherical tourbillon with two carriages spinning on two axes freeing the regulating organ from effects of gravity in all positions. Reverso watches can be flipped over for alternative displays. The 2006 Reverso a Triptyque, one of the most complicated watches ever made and also the world's first three faced watch.

The Gyrotourbillon 1 (above), first introduced in 2006 features a double cage tourbillon with equation of time and perpetual calendar and the Master Minute Repeater that produces tones at 55 decibels or double the volume of the world’s next loudest minute repeater.

To really appreciate the Gyrotourbillon, you must see it in action as shown on the video below;

Video-->Link

History of the Reverso - In 1931 British Polo Players in India requested a watch that could be worn during the hard charging clashes on the field. Responding to this Jacques-David LeCoultre and the Societe Jaeger turned to the most capable design engineer of the time, Rene-Alfred Chauvot. Chauvot’s solution was to make a watch that was a case inside a case. The inner case contained the movement and could be pivoted within the outer case (or carriage) that comprised essentially of a skeleton and watch lugs. Once the case was pivoted or reversed, the crystal was completely protected from blows. In 1991, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s CEO Gunther Blumlein unveiled the Reverso remade into a modern high complication with the Reverso 60eme. This was followed by a Reverso tourbillon in 1993 and a Reverso minute repeater in 1993. This year to celebrate the 75th anniversary of the Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre has exploited the unique architecture of the Reverso case to create the world’s first three faced watch. Fittingly this marvel dubbed the Reverso a Tryptique offers up a golden harvest of haute de gamme complication. (via Horomundi/Revolution)

Reverso Tourbillon via Timezone

See Also;
All Jaeger LeCoultre Posts
All Tourbillon Posts

| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |


Subscribe to The Watchismo Times
Enter your email

Delivered by FeedBurner

The Wristwatch - Born on a Woman's Wrist

The Wristwatch - Born on a Woman's WristIt's true, women were the first to adorn their wrists with time. Since the mid-19th century, with sporatic examples dating even further back (here), most ladies wristwatches were incorporated into bracelets, heavily jeweled, stylishly decorative, and quite often concealing their functions. Women were at least five decades if not more than a century ahead of the first mens Cartier Santos, a watch made for a pilot in the early 1900s. Ahead of the first military watches that placed strapped pocket watches onto a soldiers wrist.

This history has been beautifully documented in the extensive interactive exhibit, "Fine Watchmaking - A Tribute to Women", an exhibition from the 2007 SIHH. Examples from the show below and the complete online catalogue here-->LINK

The Wristwatch - Born on a Woman's Wrist1868 - First Patek Philippe wristwatch
Made for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary
The Wristwatch - Born on a Woman's WristOne of the oldest known bracelet-watches.
Movement signed Capt & Freundler à Genève, 1813.
Musée d’Horlogerie du Locle, Switzerland

The Wristwatch - Born on a Woman's Wrist1930s Cadenas Watch witch serpentine chain
Van Cleef & Arpels

The Wristwatch - Born on a Woman's WristAdvertisement for the Marquise watch by Baume & Mercier.
Marquise watch. Early 1950s. Baume & Mercier collection

The Wristwatch - Born on a Woman's WristUnusual watch attached to a ribbon

And from the article, "Women and watches - A long standing love affair"

"The wristwatch conquers new fans

With the sleeveless dresses of the Directoire and Empire styles, the bracelet became a blank canvas on which jewelers could express their creativity. Some were inspired to incorporate a timepiece, proving that women, not men, were the first to wear their watch on their wrist. However, not everyone welcomed this innovation. Certain of its detractors even claimed that such small and doubtless fragile mechanisms would inevitably be damaged by the movements of the wrist.

This by no means discouraged Omega, which proposed wristwatches for men and women as of 1905. The watch was seen from a new angle, as a fashion accessory. Women were encouraged to own several and adapt them to their outfit and activities. When, in 1914, the women’s magazine Femina ran a poll of its readers, 3,437 of the 4,350 respondents said they preferred the wristwatch. After the First World War, both men and women adopted the wristwatch for its modern, sporting or avant-garde image. All eyes focused on Rolex when in 1927 Mercedes Gleitze swam the Channel with a waterproof Oyster strapped to her wrist. After the Second World War, society discovered mass consumption and an emphasis on well-being as never before. Life was once again a social whirl and luxury reinstated. Piaget was one of the first to create watches in a jewelery spirit, followed by Jaeger-LeCoultre and Chopard."

For the rest of this article-->Link

Via Journal de la Haute Horlogerie
& Origins of the Wristwatch before 1900

Related Posts on The Watchismo Times;
All Ladies Wristwatch Features-->Link
Jewelry Features-->Link



Find more ladies watches here


| Watchismo Blog | Watchismo Shop | Contact Us | Subscribe |



Subscribe to The Watchismo Times
Enter your email

Delivered by FeedBurner

Urwerk Tarantula Crawls Onto Your Wrist and Sticks its Fangs Into Your VeinsUrwerk 202 Hammerhead Automatic at 2008 SIHHPhenomenal Photos of the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso TourbillonSIHH Premiere - Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso GyrotourbillonThe Wristwatch - Born on a Woman's Wrist

Report "Watchismo Times"

Are you sure you want to report this post for ?

Cancel
×