Watchismo Times

Concord C1 Tourbillon Gravity - Falling Closer Into View

Published: April 14, 2008 | 20:08

Thanks to Jack Forster of Horomundi for showing some of the very first thorough full-view shots of the C1 Tourbillon Gravity by Concord.

Via Horomundi

Read more about the production at the Concord micro-site featuring a blog about its production-->Link

Related Posts;
All Tourbillon Stories
Vertical Tourbillon Cabestan
All New 2008 Watch Posts-->Link

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Urwerk 202 Hammerhead Automatic at 2008 SIHH

Published: April 08, 2008 | 16:45

From Urwerk's presentation of the new UR-202 Twin Turbine-->Link

UR202 Promotional Video-->Link
The UR-202 is the world’s first watch with the winding rate regulated by fluid dynamics.

As long ago as the 18th century, clockmakers were using air friction to regulate the speed of chiming clocks, and their techniques evolved to become the preferred method of regulating the rate of chimes on minute-repeaters.

With the UR-202, URWERK have taken the traditional idea of using air friction and refined it to control the rate of automatic winding.
The traditional rotating vanes of the past have been replaced by cutting-edge miniature twin turbines - miniature air compressors - which can be seen spinning on the back of the watch.

Urwerk turbines

The UR-202’s twin turbines are coupled with the winding rotor. According to the position of the selector lever, the turbines act as shock absorbers.
In normal activity they cushion sharp movements of the rotor. This reduces wear and increases the lifespan of the movement.
While the selector position is continuously variable, the three principal positions are: normal activity, where the turbines spin freely; vigorous activity, where the air pressure generated by the turbines reduces the winding rate by approximately 35%; and extreme activity, where the turbines and rotor are fully blocked.

The turbine system is totally self-contained within the waterproof case. The air flows from under the turbines and is channeled up past them under a sapphire plate and down through holes leading to a tiny air chamber.

The turbines are controlled by a 3-position selector switch. This functions by adjusting the level of air compression the turbines generate by selectively regulating the amount of air flowing from inside the case.

The spinning turbines force air through holes into a tiny air chamber. The selector switch controls the amount of air escaping from the turbines.
By restricting the airflow, it increases the air pressure and slows down the turbines and the winding rotor.

The UR-202 also features URWERK’s patented Revolving Satellite Complication with telescopic minutes hands.

The Revolving Satellite Complication displays time using telescopic minutes hands operating through the middle of three orbiting and revolving hours satellites. The telescopic minutes hands precisely adjust their length to follow the three sectors marking the minutes: 0-14, 15-44, 45-60.

Extended, they enable the UR-202 to display the time across a large, easy-to-read dial. Retracted, they allow for a very wearable and comfortably sized case.

Photo->Link

Related Posts;
ALL URWERK STORIES-->Link

See Also;
Urwerk Website->Link
Ian Skellern's (R)Evolution of Urwerk->Link
Horomundi's Complete Urwerk Story->Link

Urwerk's first model, the Nightwatch Wandering Hour

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Papillon by Andreas Strehler

Published: March 29, 2008 | 13:15

Watchmaker Andreas Strehler is introducing the Papillon, his independent follow-up to last years Opus 7 for Harry Winston.

Strehler's representative Curtis Thomson of Tempered Online described it for me;

"The Papillon functions differently than the Opus 7. The 7’s time was actuated via a button in the crow, with hours and minutes indicated on one disc – an ingenious system. The Papillon has two separate discs (an hours disc and a minutes disc), with each of the two mainspring barrels receiving a time disc. Normally this wouldn’t be possible, as the barrel turns too fast to indicate the hours and turns too slowly to indicate the minutes… normally. Andreas has developed a system to allow this to happen, with winding and time setting done with the crown. How? Some crazy ass gearing – that’s how ;-). The Papillon is artistic and technical – a super watch." The price is 140,000 CHF

“How to tell the time?” The “butterfly” bridge has two points – one towards the top and the second towards the bottom – which indicate the time (hours on top, minutes on bottom) as the respective discs travel past."

Watching The Passage of Time

At this year's Basel World, Swiss watchmaker Andreas Strehler will be presenting his latest masterpiece, the Papillon, for the first time. This watch, with its unusual time display, is fascinating at first sight and it inspires not only timepiece connoisseurs.

The Creation

The unusual movement design was first employed in 2007. That was when renowned watch manufacturer, Harry Winston, asked Andreas Strehler if he would like to develop the legendary OPUS 7. Andreas Strehler, who had previously already collaborated with Chronoswiss, H.Moser&Cie and Maurice Lacroix, took up the challenge. He set himself the aim of designing a watch movement that would be captivating in its technical brilliance. But it still had to be easy to tell the time with it. At this stage he probably did not suppose that telling the time was actually to become a particular pleasure.

This concept is repeated in his latest work, the Papillon, but with Andreas Strehler's unmistakable signature and new technical refinements. The design and virtuoso technical sophistication of the watch movement puts everything that came before it into the shade, turning the watch into a coveted collector's item.

Mysterious Time Display

Spring barrels normally turn too slowly for the display of minutes and too fast for the hours. But in the Papillon the timing works differently. Its spring barrels are not firmly tied into the sequence of the movement. As a result the time display can be adjusted by means of the hand setting. In addition, two giant gear wheels with 192 and 175 teeth remove the need for a third wheel. This reduction in the number of wheels and the double spring barrel arrangement result in energy savings which extend the life of the watch enormously.

Fascinating Design

Along with the technical advantages, the unusual design is also astounding. The first thing you notice when looking at the movement is the shape of a butterfly, which seems to arise naturally from the arrangement of the bridges, hence too the watch’s name, Papillon.
Thanks to the special arrangement of the gear wheels, it has been possible to design the watch in an open way, offering the user the special experience of being able to watch the passage of time. The movement assumes the function of design. The consistently applied flowing forms endow the watch with elegance, and are reminiscent of the famous technical masterpieces of the Art Nouveau era.

Expressive Yet Quiet

Constructing a beautiful watch takes time. And it takes patience and endurance to achieve the longed-for perfection. Andreas Strehler combines these virtues most impressively. Anyone who can call a watch by Andreas Strehler his own also possesses the certainty of having discovered something special and unique. The exclusivity, the outstanding engineering and the deliberate understatement of the Papillon do not need to be shouted from the rooftops. The watch speaks for itself, emphasising the unconventional character of the wearer.

Made in Switzerland

Andreas Strehler is the owner of Uhrteil AG in Sirnach, where with a team of twelve experts, watchmakers, technicians and precision mechanics, he pursues his passion. The team not only develops and produces all the movements for the innovative mechanisms itself, but also the machines and computer software needed to make them. Andreas Strehler is convinced that opportunities in the field of "haute horlogerie" are still far from being exhausted. We will just have to wait and see what the visionary comes up with next.

Strehler Opus 7 Video-->Link

Andreas Strehler's Tempered page-->Link

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Phenomenal Photos of the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Tourbillon

Published: March 29, 2008 | 01:14

The Purists have posted some pretty amazing shots of the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 as well as some brain busting technical information.

Report-->Link

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CAD SCHMAD - Finally, A Real Photo of the Concord C1 Vertical Tourbillon Gravity

Published: March 28, 2008 | 11:04

Sometimes these CAD renderings start all looking the same to me. Concord thankfully has provided The Watchismo Times with the first real world photos of their anticipated C1 Tourbillon Gravity. The Tourbillon is placed vertically and viewable from the side of the watch. More next week from Basel...

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MB&F introduces Limited Edition Titanium Horological Machine No.1 - The HM1 Ti

Published: March 25, 2008 | 15:14

I had a blast trying on a MB&F HM1 (and HM2!) late last year and decided to buy one if Max would give me an installment plan of $100 a month for 1500 months. Sadly, I am still sans Horological Machine.

But now I have my heart set on the Ti, a just-announced limited edition of ten HM1 in Titanium casing. Maybe a layaway plan this time Max?

From Max just a few hours ago...
"We will be unveiling on September 7th HM1-Ti, a very special 10 piece limited edition of “Horological Machine No1” . Out of the 100 HM1 movements to be crafted between 2007 and 2009, only 10 will conjugate this amazing Titanium case (a real feat to achieve) with a new sapphire dial partially unveiling the Tourbillon system and the amazing hour/minute floating synchronizing wheel."

HM1-Ti is an extremely sophisticated timepiece on many levels: visually, technically and emotionally. As much, if not more, art and sculpture as micro-engineering.

HM1-Ti is an avant-garde three-dimensional timekeeping machine broken free from constraints imposed by traditional horology.

The relatively light weight belies the architectural volume of HM1-Ti's grade 5 titanium case; a case whose complex modular construction enables every part to be independently
refurbished.

The radical three-dimensionality of the case construction may turn heads; however, the
totally original and highly intricate movement inside, with its 376 parts and 81 functional jewels, ensures that HM1-Ti will turn minds as well.

The challenge of applying a variety of multi-faceted fine finishes to the difficult-to-work titanium has been rewarded by the vibrant juxtaposition of light reflecting off the contrasting highly polished and matte-satin surfaces.

An extra-wide custom tapered strap, complemented by a bespoke white gold and titanium folding buckle, completes the timepiece and reinforces the highly technical nature of the case.

HM1-Ti is a limited edition of 10 pieces

Movement:
Raised central one-minute tourbillon, separate hours and minutes, seven-day power reserve.
Balance oscillating at 28,800 bph.
Automatic winding.
Four mainspring barrels in parallel.
Number of jewels: 81 (all functional).
Number of parts: 376 (including jewels).

Functions:
Left dial: Hours
Right Dial: Minutes and Seven-Day Power Reserve

Case:
Titanium Grade 5 - Limited Edition of 10.
Dimensions: length 41mm, width 64mm, height 14mm.
Number of parts: 48.

Sapphire crystals:
Dial side with anti-reflective treatment on both faces.
Display back with anti-reflective treatment on single face.

Dial:
Open dial with etched sapphire Hour and Minute bridges.
Power reserve displayed by rotating disk.

Strap & Buckle:
Extra wide black hand-stitched alligator strap with white gold/titanium folding buckle.

Presentation box:
Bespoke ETRO pin-stripe flannel and leather designer carry bag hosting the presentation
box.

See Also;
All Horological Machine Posts-->Link

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Semi-Precious Leak - Richard Mille's RM018 "Hommage to Boucheron"

Published: March 23, 2008 | 18:07

Soon to be announced Richard Mille 018 "Hommage a Boucheron" with purported precious stones for the mechanism.

Reminders of Mille's original Mauboussin concepts developed in the Nineties with Renaud et Papi.

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Fly Me To the Moonphase - Sarpaneva's Sculptural Slices of Cheese - The Korona K3 (& K2)

Published: March 19, 2008 | 20:37

On the heels of Stepan Sarpaneva's industrial designed Korona K1 (featured previously here->link) is the phenomenal bas-relief double moonphase Korona K3. Simultaneously, he's sent me early pics of the prototype skeletonized K2 with cutout date disc (below).

More details to follow but enjoy the first looks of this Finnish line.

White gold dimensional moonphase

Korona K3 white gold caseback moon & winding mass

Korona K2 with the skeletonized and cutout date disc

K2 Caseback

See all other Sarpaneva Posts;
Korona K1 Feature
The Sarpaneva Supernova
Blue Steel Supernova
Sarpaneva Loiste II
Eero Aarnio Prototype by Sarpaneva

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"A Rare Mixture of Art, Science & Mechanics" - Greubel Forsey Film

Published: March 17, 2008 | 01:06

A short film about the dynamic duo watchmaker/inventor team of Greubel Forsey.

"The whole idea was not to accept that everything has already been invented in watchmaking. We do have our page in the history of watchmaking to write."

-Robert Greubel

Video-->Link

Or download the higher quality version here-->Greubel Forsey film (70MB)

When you see the video, you'll have a better understanding why about two watches a month are produced...

Greubel Forsey Invention Piece No. 1

Greubel Forsey Website-->Link

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Horologymnastics - Antoine Preziuso's B-Side

Published: March 16, 2008 | 00:31

The 2008 "B-Side", new from
Swiss watchmaker Antoine Preziuso

B-Side Dial

"A desire to "do different" is perfectly symbolized by the B-Side, a tourbillon watch designed to be worn in reverse. "More often than not we forget about, even hide, the reverse side of a watch when aesthetically speaking it’s certainly the most beautiful, akin to a sculpture. This inspired me to make this side the focus of attention while giving the B-Side a mechanism to pivot the case and read the time. Having said that, the days are gone when the watch was seen purely and simply as an object for telling the time, as time is now given everywhere. In fact I’m thinking of making the B-Side the sole theme of my next presentation at Basel. In a similar vein, we’ve launched a collection of "mechanical jewelry." These are pieces of jewelry that incorporate an aspect of a watch mechanism. Their purpose is not to give the time but to pulsate with a moon phase, rotor or tourbillon."

-Le Journal De La Haute Horlogerie