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THE WATCHISMO TIMES WATCH BLOG A reliquary of obscure timepieces from bygone eras as well as the cutting-edge watch designs of today.

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Raising The Bars - OPUS 8 Mechanical Digital by Harry Winston Rare Timepieces & Frédéric Garinaud

In this world of mechanical pissing contests, the Opus 8 from Harry Winston Rare Timepieces streamed out very far at Baselworld.

Inspired by early electronic LED watches of the 1970s (like the first Hamilton Pulsar), creator Frédéric Garinaud (of Renaud & Papi) & CSH developed the Opus 8 with a new twist on mechanical-digital watches. Time is shown by pulling the side-lever down which in turn activates mechanical pixels to rise up from the digitally segmented dial displaying the hour of the day, am/pm, and indication of minutes by rising five minute markers located in a vertical scale next to the primary display.

My attempts to describe this to you might be complicating matters from what might be best explained with images. I should also compare the functions to the contouring rods of the Pinpression toy (shown below) but instead of pressing the pins against your hand or face, the time is reflected by the precisely placed pegs of a music box-style mechanism.

Rumor has it that these were sold out before they being presented (from an edition of 50). Max Büsser's original vision (Opus 1-5) continues to have a lasting impression with this innovative series.


The minute scale and time-display lever (and logo)

What impresses me most of all has nothing to do with the watch itself but the story of how the Opus 8 was created by neither a watchmaker or a designer but instead a visionary with an absurd and genius idea...

Biography of Frédéric Garinaud;

Born in southwest France in 1971, for Frédéric Garinaud the road to watchmaking and Opus 8 had an interesting and unlikely origin. Neither watchmaker nor designer by trade, Garinaud got his start in the French naval academy where he specialized as an on-board mechanic. In 1999, Garinaud attended the Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers in Lyon to formalize his graduate studies and began working as a development manager for special machinery in a galvanoplasty laboratory. In 2001, he joined Audemars Piguet (Renaud & Papi) as a technical office manager. In 2005, paving the way for his current role, Garinaud founded the watchmaking specialties unit - la Cellule des Spécialités Horlogères (CSH). Aiming to bridge ultramodern training with watchmaking tradition, the unit combines all of the trades involved in watchmaking -- from drawings to timing, to development and construction, and even micro-mechanical manufacture, decoration and product assembly. Garinaud wanted to bring to high-quality watchmaking some of the product developments that have enriched and advanced our consumer world, including: microelectronics, clothing design, ecology and innovative materials.

Five years ago, Frédéric Garinaud came up with an idea: To invent a hybrid timepiece that would bring together complicated mechanics and digital electronics. Around the same time, Garinaud first learned of the Opus concept developed by Harry Winston and began dreaming of an innovative piece to bring to the brand, which would come to be known as Opus 8.

Interested in developing his hybrid idea, Harry Winston met with Garinaud in early 2007 and presented him with a new challenge: Why not transform the hybrid display into a digital display? Garinaud immediately returned to his design table to create a prototype design.

Arriving at Basel 2007, armed with rolls of design drawings and his team from the Cellule des Spécialités Horlogères, the “Magician” revealed his latest tricks, presenting his preliminary plan for Opus 8. Though the brand was initially unconvinced, Garinaud continued to work his innovative magic 10 days later, he would receive an important and enthusiastic call. Harry Winston had accepted the plans. The Opus adventure had begun.

via Worldtempus

Large scale model of the inner mechanism function

Sideview of raised digit segments

Pegged disc beneath segmented dial

Close-up of disc

Thanks to Leo at Horomundi for the candids at HW

The circuit board style caseback

The Man behind the Opus 8, Frédéric Garinaud

The Pinpression

Not sure if Mr. Garinaud ever saw the Pinclock, but for about $100, you can have a similar pin-raising technology in a desk clock (above).


Pinclock-->Video

This Opus 8 project also reminds me of the remarkable mechanical mirrors of artist Daniel Rozin. The mirrors reflect the viewer with a wide array of wooden rods, tiles, metal balls and many other materials. See his amazing work in the videos below;


Rozin Peg Mirror Video->Link


Wooden Mechanical Mirror Video->Link

Weave Mirror Video->Link


Opus 8 Press Release;

OPUS 8: THE ART OF DIGITAL EMOTION
REINTERPRETATION OF A (R)EVOLUTION
Rooted in the Pop Art moment of the 1970s, Digital Art and Technology have revolutionized our way of life and continue to influence contemporary art and culture. Allowing artists to create works of extreme complexity, these same advances in digital technology have also transformed the art of modern watchmaking. Armed with the avant-garde and innovative spirit that defined this decade, Opus 8 represents a continuation of this technological and artistic (r)evolution...

A MECHANISM INSPIRED BY A GAME
An exceptional and advanced timepiece, Opus 8 utilizes hand-wound mechanical movements to create a modern, digital time display. Inspired by pin art games, which create 3D impressions of objects pressed against them, the numbers in the display will only appear “upon request,” activated by a bolt on the right hand side of the case. Nothing appears until the mechanism is wound.

A plate joins together small segments, both mobile and fixed. Just underneath is a disc driven by the movement, which turns independently in real time. When the mechanism is wound, the pieces adjust to display the time. As the plate descends, the small segments remain visible, “blocked” by the crystal, allowing the hour to be read for 5 seconds. Technically, all functions are related, enabling everything to be displayed on demand – the minute hand turns the hour that then turns the AM/PM function.

The dial’s microbead blasted coating is similar to that of a calculator, while the segments are made of black anthracite with polished sides. As innovative in materials, as in mechanics, the sides of the segments are crafted of amorphous carbon. A material more commonly known in Formula 1 racing, Garinaud’s team successfully adapted it to use for watch microparts. The specialized material has an extremely low friction coefficient and highly resistant coating. Wear, blockages and material discharge become almost non-existent.

THE INNOVATION’S MAGIC
In addition to a modern, sophisticated technique, Opus 8 features a strikingly original dial display. On the left is a four-digit hour display – two for the hour and two for the time of day (AM/PM). When it is 20h00, the watch will display 08PM. On the right is an innovative minute counter, with a layout and display from bottom to top. Set in 5 minute segments (precision being secondary), the 5 minute indicator is an arrow-shaped ring. The hour and minute numbers recalls the symmetrical hexagonal typography found in liquid crystal mechanics.

A VERY “SEVENTIES CASE”
With its imposing rectangular dimensions – 43mm wide, 41mm long, 13 thick – Opus 8’s bold, graphic shape resembles a retro-style television set. The case front has a resolutely digital display with its 4mm-thick domed crystal blocking the segments . With the display winding bolt located on the right and the winding crown on left, the mechanism has a movement rotation of 180 °. The display of the hour is not possible during winding. In the middle, an opening allows us to admire the heart – the balance. The movement’s back is decorated like a printed circuit, with lines leading to the various time elements. At the top, the hours (H) and the minutes (M). On the left, the periods of the day (AM/PM), and on the right, the 48-hour power reserve indicator (PRI). At the bottom, two lines indicate the co-designers of the watch, Garinaud & CSH (Cellule de Spécialités Horlogères), and the serial number.

OPUS 8 TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION

MOVEMENT: TYPE: Mechanical, elliptical, with mechanical digital display module, Manual winding
DISPLAY: Hours, minutes (every 5 minutes), AM/PM.
FREQUENCY: 3 Hz
MAIN DIAMETER: 35 mm
DISPLAY MODULE: 35.5 mm by 22.5 mm
JEWELS: 44
COMPONENTS: 437
SEGMENTS: 138
POWER RESERVE: 48 hours
FUNCTIONS: On the face: Digital display indicated by segments: Hour (AM/PM) and
minutes (every 5)
On the back: Digital display indicated by discs: Hour (AM/PM) and
minutes (every 5)
Power reserve also indicated on the back of the watch
CASE: MATERIAL: White gold
DIMENSIONS: WIDTH: 45.8 mm
LENGTH: 33.5 mm
LEFT: Crown for setting the time and winding
RIGHT: Winding bolt for digital displays
DIAL: Display module: black anthracite segments with polished sides
Side of segments crafted from amorphous carbon
Hours, minutes and letters in digital form
CRYSTAL: Anti- reflective Sapphire, 4 mm
WATCHSTRAP: Leather
WATER RESISTANCE: 30 meters
LIMITED EDITION: 50 pieces

The Opus program was launched by Maximilian Büsser & Harry Winston in 2001, to encourage a new interest for unlimited freedom and innovation in technical watchmaking. Partnering with independent watchmakers, each year the Opus program develops rare timepieces never before seen or imagined within the industry.


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All Mechanical Digital - The MECCANICO dG by de GRISOGONO

All Mechanical Digital - The MECCANICO dG by de GRISOGONODe GRISOGONO is about to launch the worlds most complicated Mechanical Digital/Analog watch at Basel 2008. The MECCANICO dG has two time-zones with a traditional analog display on top but one of the more amazing digital displays at the bottom. A pure mechanical digital display imitating LED segments but in fact are rolling tubes! Granted this is a CAD rendering but the real watch will be shown in a few days at Baselworld in Switzerland. I'll be in Basel so stay tuned to The Watchismo Times for the first photos...

All Mechanical Digital - The MECCANICO dG by de GRISOGONO
The Meccanico Press Release;
RETURN TO THE FUTURE!

The inventors and designers of Haute Horlogerie enjoy a rare privilege: the luxury of choice. Existing constructional principles and concepts can of course always be revisited and reinterpreted but a design team can also decide to strike out in an entirely new direction. Founder and president of de GRISOGONO, Fawaz Gruosi naturally favors the second approach. With the MECCANICO dG, the Geneva-based house's latest entry, de GRISOGONO is introducing a design that projects hallowed horological traditions far into the future. With its 651 components, the MECCANICO dG's mechanical movement is one of the most intricate made today. A Haute Horlogerie timepiece with two distinct timezones, it is the first to display both analogue and digital time by mechanical means. This world first - and de GRISOGONO patent! - features a highly complex time mechanism inside a particularly contemporary design.

For his company's fifteenth anniversary, Fawaz Gruosi, founder and president of de GRISOGONO, was determined to break new ground and explore an area no watch manufacturer had ever ventured into: a digital display driven by an exclusively mechanical system. Although it took considerable confidence and even a touch of rashness to involve himself with a project of this kind, Fawaz Gruosi never looked back, intent on leading the brand into uncharted and definitely challenging territory.

With its patented double time display, both analogue and digital, the MECCANICO dG design inaugurates a totally novel concept in mechanical Haute Horlogerie. A single mechanical movement, twin timezones, two types of display - the MECCANICO dG embodies a major innovation, combining for the first time in the history of horology a digital time display and a mechanical power supply.

A NEW DIMENSION

The digital display is a child of the quartz era. At the time, electronics seemed to have won the day and mechanical timekeeping was under threat. Three decades later, magnificently intricate mechanical movements are more in demand than ever and Haute Horlogerie enjoying unprecedented success. The intervening years saw traditional watchmaking recover and reinvent itself. Generating invention after invention, creating ever more stunning, gloriously finished designs, traditional watchmaking has conferred objet d'art status on its most cunningly complex timepieces. Yet up to now, it had never revisited the digital time display. With the MECCANICO dG, this reluctance is now a thing of the past. The design propels horological history forward into a new dimension.

The MECCANICO dG can be described as a dense cluster of microsystems featuring extremely elaborate cam and gear assemblies. Its exclusive de GRISOGONO handwound mechanical movement comprises 651 components. It is composed of an analogue display of the hours and minutes on the upper dial and a digitally displayed second timezone on the lower dial. The mechanically operated digital display of the second timezone shows tens of hours, single hours, tens of minutes and single minutes, all displayed by mobile microsegments driven by an assemblage of 23 cams connected to a set of gears and a triggering and synchronization system.

The time information is displayed by an array of 23 horizontally and vertically positioned microsegments. Vertical segments are 9 mm high and weigh at most 25 milligrams while the horizontal segments measure 2.90 mm in length and weigh only 10 milligrams. The segments have four faces: two opposing visible faces fitted with colored strips and two opposing unmarked faces. Time changes are effected by 90° rotations of the required segment or segments. Involving one to twelve segments, time changes are lightning fast.

GROUNDBREAKING DESIGN

The MECCANICO dG's exclusive Haute Horlogerie technical design is matched by striking contemporary styling. Its intricate mechanical systems are visible through its transparent dial plate. Also featuring colored strips, the analogue time display's hour markers seem suspended in thin air so as to reveal the underlying mechanism. Like every de GRISOGONO movement, the MECCANICO dG's own caliber is meticulously finished and its components blackened. The words “de GRISOGONO” and “Swiss Made” are inscribed directly on the movement while the back of the watch features a nameplate bearing the name “MECCANICO dG”.

Despite the power needed to action the double analogue and digital display and the torque required to effect the instantaneous rotation of the digital display's microsegments, the MECCANICO's handwound mechanical movement, exclusive to de GRISOGONO, provides a power reserve of some 35 hours, visible through a cambered sapphire backplate on a 90° sectoral display on the movement's reverse side.

The MECCANICO dG case does justice to its exceptional movement. Notable for generous dimensions (56 x 48 mm) and camberedlines, water-resistant to 30 meters (~ 100 feet), this pioneering design is available in a choice of styles: titanium, titanium and red gold, titanium and rubber and titanium and platinum. In keeping with the design's futuristic allure, its correctors and the crown guard are fashioned from vulcanized rubber. Its analogue display is set by the crown opposite 3 o'clock while the second timezone is set by a pair of correctors - for hours at left, for minutes at right. Also crafted from vulcanized rubber, the strap is fitted with a deployment clasp buckle featuring the de GRISOGONO crest.

Launched to mark an exceptional horological year at de GRISOGONO, the MECCANICO dG is being produced in a limited edition of 177 watches in titanium and 177 in white gold.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
  • Reference DG 042
  • Caliber Exclusive to de GRISOGONO
  • Movement thickness 11.45 mm
  • Movement dimensions rectangular: 38.10 x 34.70 mm
  • Number of components 651 for the movement, 70 for the case
  • Jeweling 77 (movement and display)
  • Frequency 28,800 v.p.h. (4 Hz)
  • Power reserve about 35 hours
  • Indications Hours, minutes and second timezone
  • Case titanium; 5N red gold; titanium and gold; titanium and platinum, titanium and rubber
  • Water resistance 30 meters (~ 100 feet) = 30 atm.
  • Hands “dauphine” style in 18K red gold
  • Strap black natural rubber
  • Clasp Double deployment construction in titanium and 5N red gold.

See Also;
All New 2008 Watch Posts-->Link


All Mechanical Digital - The MECCANICO dG by de GRISOGONOvia Horomundi


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Busybodies - Timberland HT2 Craterface, Invicta Blockhead, & A Watch Worth Owning

Busybodies - Timberland HT2 Craterface, Invicta Blockhead, & A Watch Worth OwningTwo new unique inexpensive mult-functional, multi-dialed beasts. Above, the HT2 with plenty of junk in the trunk. An overdose on your wrist with analog-digital displays, four time zones, altimeter, thermometer, barometer, and an analog and digital compass. If you know someone that likes to get lost and be on time...$295-$345

via Technabob

Busybodies - Timberland HT2 Craterface, Invicta Blockhead, & A Watch Worth OwningThis one? I don't know, it's just big, offensive and ugly. And generally, I appreciate an ugly watch from time to time, just not sure this is one of them. From Invicta

Busybodies - Timberland HT2 Craterface, Invicta Blockhead, & A Watch Worth OwningPersonally, if we're going for multi-function overkill here, I'd much rather have this 1890 gunmetal world-time pocket watch. The front has a respectable dose of information with time, month, day, date, and moonphase but the back displays SEVEN time zones! And also understand, this is a mechanical timepiece, those are all moving parts gauging that much information in a little pod of blackened steel.

Granted it's about $9700 more than the other two watches above...but doesn't that seem like a deal now? From Bogoff->Link

Related posts;
Two-timing Bastards
Multi-function Monsters
Arnold & Son True North
Michael Jordi Double Deckers
Andy Warhol Five Time Zone Watch
World Time Watches
Compass/Thermometer Watches
Bullhead Chronographs
Math Watches
Dual LED-LCD Watches
History of Calculator LED Watches
James Bond Gadget Watch History
Anadigi (Analog-Digital) Watches



Check out my $100-$100,000 holiday gift guide!-->LINK


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Linde Werdelin Bifometer Instrument Ascent to Everest

Linde Werdelin Bifometer Instrument Ascent to Everest
Linde Werdelin Bifometer Instrument Ascent to Everest
First confirmed free climb - June 25th, 2007

The Linde Werdelin Biformeter and Land Instrument has made history by guiding world leading climbers, Conrad Anker and Leo Houlding, to becoming the first to free climb the famous North East Ridge of Everest. This is the first confirmed true, unaided ascent of the route.

The Linde Werdelin Land Instrument measures heart rate, temperature, altitude, weather and compass readings, principally keeping the expedition team safe whilst measuring how the body reacts to such extreme conditions. Previously, all confirmed ascents using this route to reach the summit have used a ladder bolted to the Second Step of the North East Ridge. The Chinese authorities gave special permission for the removal of the fixed ladder and ropes enabling Houlding and Anker to complete the Second Step very much as Mallory and Irvine might have done 83 years earlier proving that it is very possible that they did reach the summit.


Linde Werdelin Bifometer Instrument Ascent to Everest
via Timezone

Linde Werdelin Site
Altitude Everest Expedition Site
Expedition Biometrics Page


Click here to find other altimeter watches

Click here to find other heart rate monitor watches


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1974 Waltham Jump Hour Chronograph

Rarely do you find a digital jumping hour chronograph, but this rare 1974 Waltham 1376 TDBK (also found by brands Tenor Dorly, Kelek, Sandoz, Elgin, and Precimax) is a rare bird by any name. Likely a face only a mother could love but I'd find myself willing to breast feed this one.


A direct reading chrono with no hands other than the stopwatch and seconds. A digital jump hour display for hours, minutes and date.One of a few 1970s bell-bottom chronographs that will be featured in my upcoming QP Magazine column, 'Watchismo's Timewarp'.

Related posts;
Jump Hour Watches-->Link
Chronographs-->Link

Vintage Solar Powered Watches - A Partly Cloudy History

Evolution of the Sundial


1. Synchronar - Conceived in the early sixties and first produced in 1968, the first Solar watch ever was invented by the reclusive inventor Roger Riehl. Solar panels on the top with a sideview LED display. Heavily debated within a microcosm of vintage watch collectors as the first digital watch ever. That distinction is commonly given to the 1970's Pulsar LED. 

2. Nepro - 1975 LED with raised display and backside solar panels.


3. Uranus - "This is one of the earliest LED watches in existence. It is one of the very earliest "wearable" wristwatches made by Uranus (approx. 1971) and one of only a few made (hugely expensive to build). It actually predates the Pulsar and launched Uranus into a patent fight with Hamilton (Uranus lost). The thing that makes this watch unique is that it does not use an LSI (large scale integrated chip) but instead is made up of discrete logic and driver chips using hundreds of wire bonds to connect them up. It is truly a packaging marvel. The display is only hours and minutes. The face is divided in half horizontally with the LED in the upper half, the lower half being composed of solar cells in a fan pattern to supplement the battery, all in a gold filled case." by Guy Ball


4. Sicura LCD - 1976 LCD with innovative solution of putting solar panels on the side of the watch.

Sicura Ad


5. Sicura Analog - 1978 Analog version of the same watch.



6. Junghans 'Mega Solar' - 1990's radio-controlled, PVD-coated wristwatch with solar cell, date and integrated radio receiver from one of the most accurate clocks in the world - the Caesium Time Base at Germany’s National Institute of Natural Engineering and Sciences.


7. Citizen Crystron - 1976 "This was the first solar-powered analog wristwatch. It conformed to the conventional design of most analog watches except for the four square gray panels that take up most of the face. This watch began Citizen’s long-term commitment to solar powered watches, which has culminated in the very successful Eco-Drive line of watches." by Soluhr


8. Calcron & Louis Erard Calculator Watches - Mid to late seventies solar calculator watches with side panels. The non-solar Calcron is believed to be the first ever wrist-calculator watch made as originally featured here-->Link


9. Cristalonic 'Solar Quartz' by GmbH - 1980's LCD with an asymmetric black plastic case.

Cristalonic Advertisements


10. Lorus - 1980's solar LCD. A division of Seiko.

Sadly, development of the modern light-powered watch, like the Citizen Eco-Drive, eliminated the need for innovative visual configurations as solar panels now absorb light through traditional watch dials. It was fun while it lasted...

DKN-Why??? Inspired by or Stolen by?

I'm all for vintage-inspired modern wristwatches - and it is true when they say, "Imitation is the highest form of flattery", but c'mon!

From what little I know, DKNY could be licensing the old designs for reproduction and quite honestly, the original vintage models are so obscure, nobody other than a few geeks like me would care. The 'magic' of the original models just can't be replicated, both the Heuer Manhattan and Zenith Time-Command will retain their certain 'Je ne sais qua' as vintage sensibility and quality is difficult to truly replicate.

But on the other hand, bringing interesting designs for enthusiasts with lower budgets is always appreciated.




Whatthefuckwatch by Tokyoflash Japan

Tokyoflash has always brought us great gadget watches flexing new timetelling muscles but this time, you'll rip flesh trying to determine how late you are. The all stainless steel 'Biohazard' Alien Detection Watch has an advanced multi-color LCD display and is summed up like this;
  • Top row - 12 Helix bars, each lit for the hours of the day
  • Bottom row - Blue blocks represent 5 minute increments, green are 1 minute each.
  • The animated 'Alien DNA' calculation in the middle determines the date by the percentage shown - 12.04% = December 4th





1976 Zenith 'Time Command' Analog-digital LED Hybrid Watch


1976 Zenith 'Time Command' Analog-digital LED Hybrid Watch

1976 Zenith 'Time Command' Analog-digital LED Hybrid Watch




1976 Advertisement

Very few Swiss watch companies truly ventured into the digital age but Zenith found a happy medium with their 'Time Command' or 'Futur' and 'Defy Quartz' ana-digi wristwatches. The latest Quartz analog display with the only watch of it's kind to diplay am/pm, date and/or seconds with a tiny LED window. But the most spectacular angle of this design is the curved crystal cascading over the top of the case allowing an uncommon three-dimensional view of the dial and hands.




Interesting to note the 1956 Zenith Space Command remote control directly above the Hamilton Pulsar of 1972 in the PC World 50 Greatest Gadgets of the past 50 years article.

Horror-logical - Multi-function Monsters


Ok, if R2D2 and a tropical parrot made love, you might get this horror-ogolical concoction called the Chronozone Dakar by Invicta.

These watches are kinda like a train wreck on your wrist. I'm highlighting a few that stand out from the crowd. And they obviously really really want that.

Horror-logical - Multi-function MonstersCitizen reissue of their 1980's Ana-Digi Temperature Watch
(pocket protector not included)


Horror-logical - Multi-function Monsters62mm Nautica NMX Compass Chronograph
(comes in ammo box with binoculars)


Raising The Bars - OPUS 8 Mechanical Digital by Harry Winston Rare Timepieces & Frédéric GarinaudAll Mechanical Digital - The MECCANICO dG by de GRISOGONOBusybodies - Timberland HT2 Craterface, Invicta Blockhead, & A Watch Worth OwningLinde Werdelin Bifometer Instrument Ascent to Everest1974 Waltham Jump Hour ChronographVintage Solar Powered Watches - A Partly Cloudy HistoryDKN-Why??? Inspired by or Stolen by?Whatthefuckwatch by Tokyoflash Japan

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